API finds nearly half of certified oils have issues

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This is a very good thread.

Foxtrot is right that there are blenders who routinely make API SJ and SL motor oils.”Technically ” still API current but well off current API SP standards.

Warren Oil sells then and so does Smitty’s Supply.

Having sqid that when PQIA tested Warren Oil synthetic blend oils that were current API specification at the time all those oils passsed those tests. Every single time. Smitty’s Supply with their Super S version oils passed every single time has well. Cam2 synthetic blend oils were tested routinely by PQIA and those oils passed every single time too. When Warren Oils full synthetic Lubrigold Dexos approved oils were tested against current specs and including Dexos specs regarding Noack Dexos specification Lubrigold full synthetic oils passed every time too. Same for Super S Dexos approved oils as well.

Do I believe that certain local or even regional chains or shops buy large bulk oils that are not real “ current “ API SP ? Aka API SL or SJ

Absolutely… I believe that is true like Foxtrot has stated on here.

Should it be illegal to make or sell “ technically “ current API spec motor oils like API SJ or SL ? Or non detergent oils ?

An argument can be made for that.

I also believe though that people aka local shops or regional buyers buying the cheapest oils available that are NOT truly legitimate current API SP and yet NOT telling their customers what they are really getting put in their vehicles… Those people or companies should also be gone after as well.


I wasn’t going to point fingers. But there’s certainly a start of a list there. You can throw in Starfire / Scot lubricants as well. And KPP/SK.

There are more bad actors out there as well.

You can google some of these players and see the lawsuits. Famed is the 303 lawsuits. If you made 303 fluid since 2000, I don’t particularly trust you. At all.
 
I wasn’t going to point fingers. But there’s certainly a start of a list there. You can throw in Starfire / Scot lubricants as well. And KPP/SK.

There are more bad actors out there as well.

You can google some of these players and see the lawsuits. Famed is the 303 lawsuits. If you made 303 fluid since 2000, I don’t particularly trust you. At all.
If you only leave clues, bits, and pieces, it looks like you're throwing shade. Calling out those who hurt the consumer is a good thing. It is not libelous if it's true, I'm sure you already know that.

I am a consumer and I got burned by Starfire gear oil. It is terrible, suffice it to say that I'll never use it again. It was used in a heavy-duty application, and it performed poorly. When drained, the gear oil was burned, pitch black, though it was used normally. I guess I'm guilty of 'save a buck now, spend a few thousand later.' The amount of 'forbidden glitter' I saw was something else. Later on, it led to bearing failure in one of the differentials. I'm not trying to swing mud their way. I just hope no one buys their products.

As always, I appreciate your comments. Reading them is like sipping fine wine. 😉
 
Good thing LIQUI MOLY is made in Germany with the highest QA/QC standards in only 2 factories for world-wide distribution so I don't have to worry about this nonsense. Choke on that swill you are all using BITOG scum dogs and prepare for imminent engine destruction*.

*this post is sarcasm for those that struggle determining that...
 
Fair point, I have done it myself on multiple vehicles without issues, but I wouldn’t do it with a modern turbo GDI engine.

Neither would I, but for my Corvette and Civic I've been following the oil life monitors, which work out to roughly every 7k in the Vette and 10k in the Civic (which is not the 1.5 turbo otherwise I'd probably do it much sooner, based on if it had fuel dilution or not)
 
Good thing LIQUI MOLY is made in Germany with the highest QA/QC standards in only 2 factories for world-wide distribution so I don't have to worry about this nonsense. Choke on that swill you are all using BITOG scum dogs and prepare for imminent engine destruction*.

*this post is sarcasm for those that struggle determining that...
And my regular use of 0W16 ain’t looking so bad now…. Enjoy that 5W40 frothy brew, thickies. Muah ha ha ha ha!
 
Good thing LIQUI MOLY is made in Germany with the highest QA/QC standards in only 2 factories for world-wide distribution so I don't have to worry about this nonsense. Choke on that swill you are all using BITOG scum dogs and prepare for imminent engine destruction*.
You know what, if true, and I never looked at Liqui Moly close enough, then I'm with you there. Better spend money on a good enough and clean product and spend a lot of money marketing buzzwords and "trash in a bottle."
 
This thread was a good read. Entertaining, at least. It's rather pathetic when you can't meet a 15% Noack spec. I know I'm beating a dead horse here, but this is just another reason why I don't care one iota for API certs. It's essentially just an honor system where only 3% of the products on the market are tested annually. I like transparency. I don't care what cert an oil has, I want to know how it actually performed. If a brand is unwilling to give that information, or they themselves don't even know how it performs (ie: simply "pass" instead of an actual value or white washing data), it's highly unlikely I'm going to buy their product.

I posted this in another thread, but will share it here too in case others didn't see it and since it's relevant to the OP. This is Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. The max foam allowed for CK-4 is 20 ml (sequence II). It produced >50 ml of foam.
Mobil 1 5W-30 SM was demonstrated not meeting Sequence IVA requirements.
Mobil Delvac 1300 was demonstrated not passing the Volvo T-13 oxidation test.
Rotella T6 is shown here not meeting the foaming requirements.

Yup, just buy a major brand and you'll be assured of getting an oil that is always exactly what it claims to be.🙄

Ed
 
I’m just going by the computer
Yeah, there's part of your problem. Have to do actual old school math to accurately measure your fuel economy. The computer gets too cute with all the data it factors in (and may actually just be an estimate), when the only 2 numbers that actually matter is volume of fuel used and distance driven. You can use the calculator on your phone; it's been years since I worked it out with pen and paper.

Formula: distance/fuel volume = mileage

Disregard if you were being funny with your computer comment. Lol
 
So your best bet of getting an oil that meets manufacturer or industry spec buying new with factory fill and never changing the oil.
And 30 thousand miles later its time to payup for a new short block.
 
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