Any FRAM users here?

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I'm currently using an XG 3980, and have another one on deck for my next oil change. Seems like a well made filter and I have no complaints. If I can score them again for the same price I paid, I'd buy more.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I don't mind Frams at all, and sometimes will use them if only to annoy the irrational haters.


+1; I see they are out of hibernation.

Are they the best value, no; But that is not the only criteria for a choice. I don't see everyone running the lowest cost SN oils here, why not the same criticism?
 
I used Fram orange filters for about the first 75,000 miles on our 140,000 mile CRV. Most of the time when I removed the filter from the engine no oil drained out of the filter. The anti-drainback valve obviously wasn't working but it made for a clean filter removal. I almost always had a clatter on cold startup also. After learning more about oil filters, I switched to Wix filters and never looked at Fram again.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I have an XG Fram that`s a *silver* can instead of a gold can. What`s the difference?


I believe that is the earliest model of the Extended Guard, rated at 7,500 miles and one layer of media. I still have one of those on deck. The next XG was 10k and two layers of media, then it matured into the 15k "Ultra".
 
Somebody, can't remember who now, sacrificed a virgin tough guard for us not too long ago, and I was kind of disappointed to see the sloppy construction. It looked like it would function ok, but the Pure One, Wix, and Bosch are in the same price range. As far as the orange can, I can use them without losing any sleep, but I'd just as soon use a Purolator. Or better yet, Motorcraft, if it's available for my application.
 
Originally Posted By: Stelth
Somebody, can't remember who now, sacrificed a virgin tough guard for us not too long ago, and I was kind of disappointed to see the sloppy construction. It looked like it would function ok, but the Pure One, Wix, and Bosch are in the same price range. As far as the orange can, I can use them without losing any sleep, but I'd just as soon use a Purolator. Or better yet, Motorcraft, if it's available for my application.


That was me I believe. Link to the Thread of the TG.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...224#Post2758224
 
Originally Posted By: DirtRacer53
Originally Posted By: Stelth
Somebody, can't remember who now, sacrificed a virgin tough guard for us not too long ago, and I was kind of disappointed to see the sloppy construction. It looked like it would function ok, but the Pure One, Wix, and Bosch are in the same price range. As far as the orange can, I can use them without losing any sleep, but I'd just as soon use a Purolator. Or better yet, Motorcraft, if it's available for my application.


That was me I believe. Link to the Thread of the TG.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...224#Post2758224


Yep, that's the one. Thanks.
 
I just pulled a TG off a kia that went 8. It held up fine. Loaded with deposits and didnt rip or anything.
Iike the ultra and old XG
 
They are fine when not abused although the orange can is a bit over priced. I've been using extended guards for quite some time now however I try to stock up in February when napa has their napa golds on sale. If I need something though I've for no problems using one.
Yes there are better filters than the ocod but every company has filters at certain price points.
The ultra looks like a heckuva unit. Once I'm out of stock I may give one a shot. I like extended life filters and not having to jack up my car to change the filter every oil change is convenient.
There are many fram haters,there are haters for everything out there. Heck we just had a Quaker State is bad thread and we all know better than that.
Use what you like,change it at a proper interval and all should be well.
 
Originally Posted By: k1rod
So all you OCOD lovers... Tell us why you think the Orange can is the best value for your money. Go ahead.


C'mon, haven't you seen their posts? It's the paint. The sandpaper grip and the orange paint. THAT is why they buy them.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I previously posted this response in another thread..."I have done HUNDREDS of LOF's using Fram or Defense filters which are made by Fram...never a problem. I have used Fram or Defense exclusively for the past 12 years...never a problem.


But did you cut every one of those filters open for inspection to verify there really wasn't a problem (ie, torn media, bad ADBV, bad by-pass valve, etc). An engine will run fine for thousands of miles and still seem like there aren't any problems going on while the oil is slowly wearing out the engine.


An engine wears SLOWLY anytime it's running. Is that not what we are trying to acheive?
 
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I previously posted this response in another thread..."I have done HUNDREDS of LOF's using Fram or Defense filters which are made by Fram...never a problem. I have used Fram or Defense exclusively for the past 12 years...never a problem.


But did you cut every one of those filters open for inspection to verify there really wasn't a problem (ie, torn media, bad ADBV, bad by-pass valve, etc). An engine will run fine for thousands of miles and still seem like there aren't any problems going on while the oil is slowly wearing out the engine.


An engine wears SLOWLY anytime it's running. Is that not what we are trying to acheive?


Sure, but I think you missed my point, which was did you cut open all of those filters to see if they were OK inside after being on the car for an OCI to ensure they were doing their job? In other words, if you found that every one of them had blown out media, then obviously they weren't doing their job of filtering the oil, and that in turn would be bad for the engine by causing accelerated wear.

It's easy for someone to say "I've ran 100s of oil filter brand X with zero problems." Well, if none of those filters were cut open and inspected after use, you would never know the difference unless one failed so badly that it cause the motor to blow up. IMO, a filter doesn't have to cause a motor to blow up to be a failure at being a filter.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix

Sure, but I think you missed my point, which was did you cut open all of those filters to see if they were OK inside after being on the car for an OCI to ensure they were doing their job? In other words, if you found that every one of them had blown out media, then obviously they weren't doing their job of filtering the oil, and that in turn would be bad for the engine by causing accelerated wear.

It's easy for someone to say "I've ran 100s of oil filter brand X with zero problems." Well, if none of those filters were cut open and inspected after use, you would never know the difference unless one failed so badly that it cause the motor to blow up. IMO, a filter doesn't have to cause a motor to blow up to be a failure at being a filter.


But Zee, you can say EXACTLY the same thing about any filter. "Why I've run hundreds of (insert any name here) with zero problems." As you said, "That you know of..."

FDS has a hold on you today, Zee ( : < )
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix

Sure, but I think you missed my point, which was did you cut open all of those filters to see if they were OK inside after being on the car for an OCI to ensure they were doing their job? In other words, if you found that every one of them had blown out media, then obviously they weren't doing their job of filtering the oil, and that in turn would be bad for the engine by causing accelerated wear.

It's easy for someone to say "I've ran 100s of oil filter brand X with zero problems." Well, if none of those filters were cut open and inspected after use, you would never know the difference unless one failed so badly that it cause the motor to blow up. IMO, a filter doesn't have to cause a motor to blow up to be a failure at being a filter.


But Zee, you can say EXACTLY the same thing about any filter. "Why I've run hundreds of (insert any name here) with zero problems." As you said, "That you know of..."

FDS has a hold on you today, Zee ( : < )


Sorry ... not following you. Not sure you are understanding my point, which is anyone who says "I've ran hundreds of filter brand X with no problems" (I'm taking about any filter here, not just FRAM) can't really justify that statement unless they cut open and inspect every filter they have ran to see if there were indeed issues going on with the filter or not. If you never cut open filters, you will never know if the media was torn, or anything else was wrong with the filter.

I did find torn media on a Purolator Classic filter (after cutting it open) that I had ran for 5,000 miles ... and after seeing that, I realized that filter was not doing it's job as designed and letting unfiltered oil through. For how long, who knows? ... worse case is it was doing that for 5K miles if the media tore right after it was installed.
 
So does this mean Purolator Classic filters are junk then? I don't think so...things happen.

"Now accepting donations of any NEW Fram filters" - GSCJR
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


I did find torn media on a Purolator Classic filter (after cutting it open) that I had ran for 5,000 miles ... and after seeing that, I realized that filter was not doing it's job as designed and letting unfiltered oil through. For how long, who knows? ... worse case is it was doing that for 5K miles if the media tore right after it was installed.


I am not sticking up for Purolator, Fram, or anybody else on this thread, but you could have a torn filter on every filter that you put on your vehicle and as long as it didn't plug up an oil passage, the engine would probably still last 200K miles. The old VW bugs are examples of vehicles that had marginal oil filtering, but still lasted a long time. Of course, nobody would knowingly run a defective oil filter on purpose.
When the oil filter first came out, most of your oil filters were add-on filters and they were bypass. In other words, 95% of the oil going through your engine was unfiltered and maybe 5% of your oil got filtered. Eventually, it all got filtered, after multiple passes through the engine, I guess, but there are still a lot of farm tractors built in the 40s that are on their original build (I've got one) and are still running and these engines had a bypass filtering system.
IMO, it's the newer oil that's making a vehicle last a long time. If you've got a filter on your car, that helps a little bit too.
 
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