Anti-Seize vs. Loctite

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: kaboom10
Wish I had known you when we got in a 4.6L prototype ford modular. I used to work for McCord gasket. We reused the head bolts that came with the engine. Our method was to put an alignment mark on the head/bolt and loosen the bolt. Then we would tighten the bolt back to the alignment mark and see what the readout was on the torque wrench. Still not a fan of TTY so for my modular engine I bought studs for all of the TTY.


I've heard a slight variant of that, for thread lube fans. Torque it dry, note the position at torque (I suppose counting turns if necessary and then measuring the angle of rotation), take it off again, lube it, and put it back in the same angular position.

Only tried that once with head bolts, on GF's scooter, but I dont THINK it had TTY bolts.

Still don't like dry threads though, even in that temporary situation. Just doesn't feel right.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: kaboom10
Use Loctite to lock things and use anti-seize to stop threaded fasteners from seizing. Ever thought of using the stuff ARP makes to put on threads? Rotating threads cause wrong readings for torque. Remove the friction and the torque reading is more accurate.


The torque reading is just fine. It is what it is.

The relationship between the torque and the tension is what alters, and the tension is the target.

The torque is just a proxy means to that end.

 

[kaboom10]

Loctite has itz own line of antiseize products. All they are is a convenient way to apply since they come in a stick form. No runs no drips no errors. If you are going to use much of the stick form buy several. They don't last long if you are going to use them a lot. I think itz one of their best ideas. I've also been using their blue Loctite in a stick. Again no runs no drips no errors.

 

[kaboom10]

Having trouble showing a pic but I just assembled two brake parts with 1/4-20 bolts that were drilled for safety wire. I safety wired them as instructed. Red Loctite would be futile with all the heat being generated on the rotor surface. Can't crank on them due to their size either.

 

[kaboom10]

We had a very expensive torque wrench capable of all kinds of measurements but that was the accepted method. Why we didn't measure the breakaway torque is beyond me. After we got the bolts out we sent them to the machine shop and had both ends ground to smooth parallel surfaces. This was for the sonic bolt stretch gauge to show the stretch and clamping load of each bolt. We also had a two part film that would use color to show a representative loading. Of course it was brighter at the bolt holes and lighter as the load lessened. Helped show how much the cylinder head design clamped down on the block.

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: kaboom10
Why we didn't measure the breakaway torque is beyond me. After we got the bolts out we sent them to the machine shop and had both ends ground to smooth parallel surfaces. This was for the sonic bolt stretch gauge to show the stretch and clamping load of each bolt. We also had a two part film that would use color to show a representative loading. Of course it was brighter at the bolt holes and lighter as the load lessened. Helped show how much the cylinder head design clamped down on the block.


Blimey! Pretty expensive-sounding train-set.

Re break-out torque, I've wondered in the past, when working on a machine that I couldn't get a manual for (basically anything in the Taiwanese market, in this case a Yamaha RZR motorcycle) what the relationship between break-out torque and the torque spec. was (assuming the latter was correctly applied, a big assumption, especially here).

They are presumably related, but I'd guess the relationship might be rather variable and might depend on time since fastening, and conditions during that period.

 

[kaboom10]

We had to have the equipment to know what our next move was. My coworker and I saved the shop 25k so the boss bought us a surface gauge so we could measure gasket surface condition.