Some ppl use nothing.in fact my Honda fsm shows nothing on the ears but does on the pins
Anti-seize on brake pad ear slider hardware?
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Being in NY with the snow you get, I would recommend once a year (I do before and after winter here in MA) relube Slide pins, take pads out, clean up any rust or salt debris on or under the clipsOK update:
cleaned all the slider pins on all the calipers, a majority of them were already frozen in place!!I used the new lubrication that I should’ve used the first time
And installed the new caliper bracket
All is well thankfully!
Thank you for all the feedback! premature wear out of the pads has been avoided! All the pins move beautifully now.
It was on my Honda v6. Maybe honda can’t make up its mind…
The past several years I've been working through a big jar of purple Permatex brake caliper grease. Seems to work as well as anything else I've used over the years. No stuck pins or pads, though we don't see much rust jacking here like you rust belt guys.
Permatex purple and green seem to have rumors of swelling rubber. I personally experienced Permatex purple swelling up the rubber dampers in the slide pins, so I only use Sil-Glyde on slide pins now. Even if your slide pins don't have a damper, using the wrong grease can deteriorate the rubber boots to a point where they don't clamp as tight which lets water in the sliders.
I still have a small can of Permatex green left, will only be using that on the ears. It'll probably be a lifetime supply for me.
I still have a small can of Permatex green left, will only be using that on the ears. It'll probably be a lifetime supply for me.
JHZR2
Staff member
New, clean product versus older surfaces that have seen wear, salt, etc.
I use the Permatex orange which is safe for rubber on my slide pins. I also use it under the hardware after cleaning the dirt and rust off.
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I used it liberally on the insides of my wife's brake rotors, they were a bear to get off even with a sledge hammer. Be curious to see how they come off say 5 years later. I put it on the hubs and the rotor hats on the inside.
Funny anyone remember fixed calipers? My Lexus has them front and rear. My BMW floating all 4, as is our GM. But the newer GMs I think are back to fixed. Cop suvs have the 16" rotors with 6 piston calipers on the front, impressive lol
I did same thing, had no problems getting off after a year or so, pulled right off. I don’t think you will have much of a problem. Hopefully
I feel like people may be confusing two potential aspects of anti-seize here.
1) putting it between two steel surfaces that are mashed or slipped together to slow rust is one thing and it seems to at least buy time. Mating surfaces where rotors meet wb hubs or unit bearings bolt to knuckles are potential examples.
2) using it on surfaces that are supposed to MOVE like slider pins and brake pad ears is very different. It does tend to sort of solidify into a thick paste and thus I'm not sure it's the ideal lubricant or grease for moving parts
I'm not necessarily saying ANYONE here is right or wrong, just that metal surfaces clamped together and moving parts are very different applications.
1) putting it between two steel surfaces that are mashed or slipped together to slow rust is one thing and it seems to at least buy time. Mating surfaces where rotors meet wb hubs or unit bearings bolt to knuckles are potential examples.
2) using it on surfaces that are supposed to MOVE like slider pins and brake pad ears is very different. It does tend to sort of solidify into a thick paste and thus I'm not sure it's the ideal lubricant or grease for moving parts
I'm not necessarily saying ANYONE here is right or wrong, just that metal surfaces clamped together and moving parts are very different applications.
I still use my 50 year old can of Lubirplate (incorrect spelling), it still works.
Use something synthetic and made for brakes
I like 3m silicone grease
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I couldn’t find my tube made by Ate. So I bought new stuff. Super expensive it was $19 for a jar, now $18 (but I tend to only buy with Amazon the seller not 3rd party if I can help it). I’m not sure why, that’s more than copper anti seize. But I had always heard never use anti seize.
Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Try using the ceramic type instead. It remains a lubricant even with the heat.
I never subscribed to the anti-seize on brakes when there are specific lubes available just for brakes. I prefer CRC synthetic brake lube as its compatible with everything including rubber parts....some brake lubes are not compatible with rubber so if you use those on slide pins with the rubber ring on them they will swell and cause issues. NOW - with that being said GM actually issued TSB's to use copper anti seize on the Cadillac XTS front brakes to eliminate a squeal that was a big warranty concern so you gotta be aware of your application and choose lube appropriately. BUT going with a good brake lube that is fully rubber compatible like CRC is a very good and safe choice.
That stuff is definitely not compatible with all types of rubber. I have seen it do some nasty things to slide pin bushings.
Interesting to hear that because it clearly says on the bottle that it is and in 2 years I haven't seen any issues.
That is my only concern with it. The bushing on the slide pin that has it. I’ve read where some people haven’t had any issues with it on slide pins, some have
On my accord, I cleaned out the caliper bore and cleaned the slide pin that doesn’t have the bushing on it and lubed it with CRC. The one with the bushing I used Raybestos silicone paste. Will see how it is after the winter
On my accord, I cleaned out the caliper bore and cleaned the slide pin that doesn’t have the bushing on it and lubed it with CRC. The one with the bushing I used Raybestos silicone paste. Will see how it is after the winter
Not everyone uses the same formulation of rubber. Also, once the oil evaporates from the CRC, it becomes a muddy paste.