Fitting brake pads.
- Thread starter Rust_Belt_Pete
- Start date
File to fit. Had to do that for years.
I try to take the caliper bracket off, clean under the shims, but often pads just don't slide nicely. Especially if I went cheap on pads. Usually it's not much work to get them to slide properly.
Don't worry, after a winter the rust will get in and they won't slide. My Tundra was awful--at least once it lost front brakes due to the pads swelling so badly in that caliper--hammering out the pads is so much fun. No more 4 piston calipers for me, thank you very much.
I try to take the caliper bracket off, clean under the shims, but often pads just don't slide nicely. Especially if I went cheap on pads. Usually it's not much work to get them to slide properly.
Don't worry, after a winter the rust will get in and they won't slide. My Tundra was awful--at least once it lost front brakes due to the pads swelling so badly in that caliper--hammering out the pads is so much fun. No more 4 piston calipers for me, thank you very much.
The metal backers swole so bad it got stuck? Sounds like what happened to my aunts car.
Yes. Well, rust between the ears and the caliper. Only because I need to distinguish from rust jacking between the pad and the backing--I've had rust or other erosion in that area, and had a pad delaminate once (oh what fun, no brakes until that caliper pumped back up) (the other 3 still had lots of meat, but now I don't trust pads past 5 years).
More recently my hybrid, which should "never" need brakes, needed brakes. I neglected to bust everything apart one spring and lube stuff up. One pad got stuck, the electric parking brake had the force to push it out, but it never floated back, so that car ate the rear pads in record time (like 60k) (we usually get 100k out of pads, and that's on non-hybrid vehicles).
I'd personally never use a grinding wheel but have used a sanding disc on a 4.5" rubber backer -- essentially a flapper wheel without the high price tag.
Today I'd probably try my M12 belt file.
A little at a time. As my instructor mocked the students in school: "I cut it three times and it's still too small?!?!"
GMT800 pads often rattled in the calipers (SO ANNOYING) if aftermarket pads were too small, so in certain situations you really want the "just right" of the three little bears.
Today I'd probably try my M12 belt file.
A little at a time. As my instructor mocked the students in school: "I cut it three times and it's still too small?!?!"
GMT800 pads often rattled in the calipers (SO ANNOYING) if aftermarket pads were too small, so in certain situations you really want the "just right" of the three little bears.
I have begun seeing this more often on brake pads and on various brands the last couple years. I will file down the minimum amount needed to fit properly (equally on both sides is important) so they are not too tight or too loose. I'll then spray a coat of engine enamel paint on the sanded parts, let them dry, install and lube as normal.
I have had to remove the paint/ powder coating to get pads to fit.
+1
Often times it's the rust that builds up on the torque member underneath the SS shims. I prefer to file the pads and clean the mounting area as best I can, rather than sandblast or replace the caliper assemblies.
That's true but some sanding paper around a file makes very quick work of that. Without the sading paper the file gets filled with rust all the time
Properly machined pads should not need to be filed. And that assumes the SS clips are new and the area where the SS clips fit into has been filed or sand blasted if there was rust.
I recall having to do the same to a set of Wagner or Centric pads. Never had to with Akebono, Bosch or OE.
Wagner and MAT make their own backing plates, else NRS supplies some of the brands.
Wagner and MAT make their own backing plates, else NRS supplies some of the brands.
The sell files specifically for this task. Posted on BITOG awhile ago by someone. I bought two sizes.
With aftermarket pads it can be a crapshoot when it comes to fitment. I’ve had Wagners that needed a little filing to fit properly and I’ve had cheap no names that fitted perfectly.
Here’s one that looks to be stamped flat and one that has a lip to it. That little bit of a lip may cause binding and may need to be filled down.
I always closely inspect the pad ears for these types of defects.
Here’s one that looks to be stamped flat and one that has a lip to it. That little bit of a lip may cause binding and may need to be filled down.
I always closely inspect the pad ears for these types of defects.
Wow, I've never had to file pad ears. Prepping the bracket is basic service. Having said that, OE pad fitment is such a pleasure! Of course CA doesn't understand the term, "rust jacking", so there's that.
Yeah I am starting to think that at least in the rust belt you can REALLY extend the service life of your brakes by literally taking them apart cleaning and lubing once a year.
The brake pads that I had to file on had pronounced ledges from stamping process that should have been knocked down at the factory usually by tumbling.
I dont see the point in spraying paint.
Can you walk me through the process? Because to me it seems that all the sliding back and forth will wear anything away?
Pads that I had to file one were just stamped out glued and painted no machining.
It's a habit I developed with Ford rear disc brakes. If you didn't then you'd be replacing pads sooner. OE Hyundai calipers the cast iron swells where the H clip rides. Have to use a file on it every time.
When the Gen Coupe first came out there were few Brembo direct replacement pads specifically for the Hyundai logoed Brembos. A few were close so that is what got sold. Had to basically take the thick paint off the ends on some Yellowstuffs.
