Yeah, honestly considering how much money I drop on good pads and rotors for my car I should get into the habit of taking off the wheel checking for ease of movement of the pad and re-greasing the caliper pins.
Fitting brake pads.
- Thread starter Rust_Belt_Pete
- Start date
The key here is "you". Unsure if it makes sense to pay a shop for this service.
The issue also is with a brake job, you really may not know if everything was done to the best it could be by a shop for many months or a year. They cleaned where the rust clips go but did they apply a lube there like an antiseize to protect against future rust. Did they use a lube on the pins that might swell boot for the pin? Pin was a little rusty so they wire brushed it to remove the rust. But rust means plating was gone and pin should be replaced. Reused SS clips because pads did not include new hardware. Too much lube on pads ears which may attract road dirt or road salt. Did not apply a grease on the hub so getting rotor off in future will be a PIA.
Also if you are like me and never use parking brake, get into habit of setting and releasing on first day of each month.
My 0.02:
- make sure pads bracket is well cleaned and if surfaces mating with stainless slide inserts are rusty and 'swollen' then remove rust and make sure inserts ('hardware') sit all way in. I put grease between bracket and inserts, no grease between insert and pad ear. If you really have to add lube between inserts and pad ears then you can use graphite dry lube which is actually powder.
- Power Stop parts quality is a bit of hit and miss; I did brake job on a '18 F30 and one rotor had set screw hole without bevel, had to fix it as opposed to return/replace on the parts
- my go to rotors and pads lately are Bosch QuietCast, used to like Raybestos till about 1.5 years ago and Power Stop till about 6 months ago.
- make sure pads bracket is well cleaned and if surfaces mating with stainless slide inserts are rusty and 'swollen' then remove rust and make sure inserts ('hardware') sit all way in. I put grease between bracket and inserts, no grease between insert and pad ear. If you really have to add lube between inserts and pad ears then you can use graphite dry lube which is actually powder.
- Power Stop parts quality is a bit of hit and miss; I did brake job on a '18 F30 and one rotor had set screw hole without bevel, had to fix it as opposed to return/replace on the parts
- my go to rotors and pads lately are Bosch QuietCast, used to like Raybestos till about 1.5 years ago and Power Stop till about 6 months ago.
So I went and looked at my AKEBONO brake pads and they don't have those sharp lips that the power stop brake pads had.
If the parts are lubed properly the paint won't wear off quickly but yes it eventually will. I just do this because I removed paint and don't want a rust situation right away. To me, it is doing the job right.
To touch back with this post I recently changed some brakes on a couple vehicles and with some Detroit axle brakes the pads were hard to get in and were too tight, had to buff the ears down to get them in, the next pads I put in were auto shack brand and they went right in with no issue without buffing the ears down
