Brake pad errosion?

[VersatileGuy]

Would using SS shims help the pad "align" with the rotor?

Giving the caliper bracket a rough wire brushing and maybe more is necessary because the pad "slants" the wrong way while the rust is there, not in line with the factory tabs. The shim conforms with the rust.

Caliper can be checked for ease of compression. Rotors, I actually like Toyota OEM because they stay in tolerance even after going below the legal limit. But if rust is this bad, then maybe there is an aftermarket with more coating or flair than Toyota OEM.

Pad slap can work for a while, but OP appear to be in a salt heavy northern state. I'm in the mid-Atlantic, so things don't look like his caliper bracket even after 20 years and some salt.

 

[iCurious]

Would using SS shims help the pad "align" with the rotor?

The purpose of the shim is mostly for noise concerns. The abutment clips is what helps the pads stay in place. If there is rust build up, seized caliper pins, or caliper piston seized, that is when you will have uneven wear.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Right,I forgot that the shim is the back part of the pad

 

[The Critic]

I think you need to buy one of those $250 HF blast cabinets and blast the caliper bracket periodically.

 

[supton]

Needs a heck of a blasting... not enough space for a blast cabinet at the moment. A chisel and wire brush does the trick. Just have to do it a couple times a year, that's all.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Does any of that pitted shaft contact an o-ring for sealing, ie; moves in/out or rotates?

I think you need to buy one of those $250 HF blast cabinets and blast the caliper bracket periodically.

And get that brush on rust converter that goes on thick and goes from white to black. It holds up well.

 

[KrisZ]

Needs a heck of a blasting... not enough space for a blast cabinet at the moment. A chisel and wire brush does the trick. Just have to do it a couple times a year, that's all.

I never had to do that when I lived in Canada. These brakes must be made of some real cheap cast iron or it’s some sort of design flaw where these brakes are abnormally blasted by water and salt.

Maybe upgrade to marine grease behind the stainless steel clips? It should resist washing off the best.

 

[supton]

I never had to do that when I lived in Canada. These brakes must be made of some real cheap cast iron or it’s some sort of design flaw where these brakes are abnormally blasted by water and salt.

Maybe upgrade to marine grease behind the stainless steel clips? It should resist washing off the best.

Probably cheap cast iron. Problem is, we've grown attached to our garage--it's super nice to pull in regardless of the weather. But it's the perfect breeding ground for rust as it stays above freezing year 'round.

Wife does drive a bit. That isn't helping. I suspect she drives through more terrain than the typical bro-dozer. At least winter is ending soon, can blast that off soon.

 

[KrisZ]

Probably cheap cast iron. Problem is, we've grown attached to our garage--it's super nice to pull in regardless of the weather. But it's the perfect breeding ground for rust as it stays above freezing year 'round.

Wife does drive a bit. That isn't helping. I suspect she drives through more terrain than the typical bro-dozer. At least winter is ending soon, can blast that off soon.

Oh yeah, that’s definitely crusty above average levels I would say.
I agree that you probably have little choice but to clean and lube the brakes twice a year.

 

[frankbee3]

Pins were not sticking—it was rust jacking under the pad ears, under the stainless steel shim whatevers. I usually try to smear Honda M77under there, are cleaning, but I think I recall skimping last time.

I just need to inspect more often. Every six months maybe. Really wish I had a lift!

After moving to NH from SoCal, I keep finding my brakes looking like yours at least every two years. I just had the parking brake shoes come apart and my first brake line burst on the Subaru Outback.

I am starting to think things rust faster here, than in Buffalo..

 

[supton]

After moving to NH from SoCal, I keep finding my brakes looking like yours at least every two years. I just had the parking brake shoes come apart and my first brake line burst on the Subaru Outback.

I am starting to think things rust faster here, than in Buffalo..

I moved only a few miles when I bought my house with a garage, and I have noticed the uptick in rust due to the garage--old house, everything stayed outside, and so I think it rusted more slowly throughout the winter. Keeping stuff outside gets more UV and rodent damage, stuff in side rust faster from the ground up.

Vehicles here are very much disposable. For a while I was able to stay on top of the oil undercoating, last few years I didn't, and I think I'm going to be paying for that going forward...

 

[nthach]

Toyota calls for a different “warranty” pad on hybrids due to rust jacking of the friction/backing plate interface. The aftermarket uses the same pad between the regular and hybrid versions of a model.

 

[supton]

Toyota calls for a different “warranty” pad on hybrids due to rust jacking of the friction/backing plate interface. The aftermarket uses the same pad between the regular and hybrid versions of a model.

I'm coming up on 100k on our hybrid and am on the second set of rear pads (fronts are fine) due to the pads seizing to the ears. Both times I've forgotten to take the old pad with me--and gotten the wrong pads, and had to go back and exchange. At least for my 2021 Camry, the pad ears might be different too, not just the glue between pad and backing plate.