Some ppl use nothing.in fact my Honda fsm shows nothing on the ears but does on the pinsI use molly brake lube. Crc brand I think.
Before that it was just a blue sticky spray and Li grease
Some ppl use nothing.in fact my Honda fsm shows nothing on the ears but does on the pinsI use molly brake lube. Crc brand I think.
Before that it was just a blue sticky spray and Li grease
Being in NY with the snow you get, I would recommend once a year (I do before and after winter here in MA) relube Slide pins, take pads out, clean up any rust or salt debris on or under the clipsOK update:
cleaned all the slider pins on all the calipers, a majority of them were already frozen in place!! I used the new lubrication that I should’ve used the first time And installed the new caliper bracket
All is well thankfully!
Thank you for all the feedback! premature wear out of the pads has been avoided! All the pins move beautifully now.
It was on my Honda v6. Maybe honda can’t make up its mind…That was my point: the FSM says one thing, but the factory does something else.
Similar to how Honda's FSM says to use anti-seize on spark plugs, but it is clear that it was not used from the factory.
New, clean product versus older surfaces that have seen wear, salt, etc.That was my point: the FSM says one thing, but the factory does something else.
Similar to how Honda's FSM says to use anti-seize on spark plugs, but it is clear that it was not used from the factory.
I used it liberally on the insides of my wife's brake rotors, they were a bear to get off even with a sledge hammer. Be curious to see how they come off say 5 years later. I put it on the hubs and the rotor hats on the inside.Antiseize is ugly messy stuff after a while. Even for its intended purpose it dries out a lot.
I did same thing, had no problems getting off after a year or so, pulled right off. I don’t think you will have much of a problem. HopefullyI used it liberally on the insides of my wife's brake rotors, they were a bear to get off even with a sledge hammer. Be curious to see how they come off say 5 years later. I put it on the hubs and the rotor hats on the inside.
Funny anyone remember fixed calipers? My Lexus has them front and rear. My BMW floating all 4, as is our GM. But the newer GMs I think are back to fixed. Cop suvs have the 16" rotors with 6 piston calipers on the front, impressive lol
Use something synthetic and made for brakesThought of this after the fact, when I replace the pads and rotors I used anti-seize on the ears of the pads and the metal slide pad ear guide hardware….
A few days goes by and I remove the rear brake caliper assembly to replace the caliper bracket, and it appears the anti-seize got “hard” and I can actually see this causing resistance on the metal pad ear sliders and causing a sticky pad or something
Did I mess up here by using anti-seize on the slider guides- the metal hardware kit that keeps the pads centered and able to move is what I’m referring to.
To note even the slider pins felt “stuff”
I’m tempted to redo the whole job and use the other kind of a/s I have… use anti-seize on the slider pins at the minimum. Break clean everything out and read do it ….
I might skip use an anti-seize on the metal hardware kit for the pad ears to slide on. (Is this wrong?)
Should I be redoing this, removing the anti-seize off the pad ears and just anti-seize in the pins/sliders?
Thank you all.
This is the hardware kit guides I am talking about
View attachment 108607
This is the a/s I used:
View attachment 108609
I’m thinking I even use the wrong anti-seize tbh. I have this also on hand:
View attachment 108610
I couldn’t find my tube made by Ate. So I bought new stuff. Super expensive it was $19 for a jar, now $18 (but I tend to only buy with Amazon the seller not 3rd party if I can help it). I’m not sure why, that’s more than copper anti seize. But I had always heard never use anti seize.Use something synthetic and made for brakes
I like 3m silicone grease
Try using the ceramic type instead. It remains a lubricant even with the heat.Thought of this after the fact, when I replace the pads and rotors I used anti-seize on the ears of the pads and the metal slide pad ear guide hardware….
A few days goes by and I remove the rear brake caliper assembly to replace the caliper bracket, and it appears the anti-seize got “hard” and I can actually see this causing resistance on the metal pad ear sliders and causing a sticky pad or something
Did I mess up here by using anti-seize on the slider guides- the metal hardware kit that keeps the pads centered and able to move is what I’m referring to.
To note even the slider pins felt “stuff”
I’m tempted to redo the whole job and use the other kind of a/s I have… use anti-seize on the slider pins at the minimum. Break clean everything out and read do it ….
I might skip use an anti-seize on the metal hardware kit for the pad ears to slide on. (Is this wrong?)
Should I be redoing this, removing the anti-seize off the pad ears and just anti-seize in the pins/sliders?
Thank you all.
This is the hardware kit guides I am talking about
View attachment 108607
This is the a/s I used:
View attachment 108609
I’m thinking I even use the wrong anti-seize tbh. I have this also on hand:
View attachment 108610
That stuff is definitely not compatible with all types of rubber. I have seen it do some nasty things to slide pin bushings.I never subscribed to the anti-seize on brakes when there are specific lubes available just for brakes. I prefer CRC synthetic brake lube as its compatible with everything including rubber parts....some brake lubes are not compatible with rubber so if you use those on slide pins with the rubber ring on them they will swell and cause issues. NOW - with that being said GM actually issued TSB's to use copper anti seize on the Cadillac XTS front brakes to eliminate a squeal that was a big warranty concern so you gotta be aware of your application and choose lube appropriately. BUT going with a good brake lube that is fully rubber compatible like CRC is a very good and safe choice.
Interesting to hear that because it clearly says on the bottle that it is and in 2 years I haven't seen any issues.That stuff is definitely not compatible with all types of rubber. I have seen it do some nasty things to slide pin bushings.
Not everyone uses the same formulation of rubber. Also, once the oil evaporates from the CRC, it becomes a muddy paste.Interesting to hear that because it clearly says on the bottle that it is and in 2 years I haven't seen any issues.