Changing my mind about using anti seize on spark plugs. I hard a very hard time removing a set with about 60k with this stuff on their threads. I believe it gets into the plug threads and sets up as a hard paste after the carrier is burned off, greatly hindering removal. Or just a very tiny amt. Just my experience. Maybe NGK is right after all- don't use any. But I still believe it should be used on lug nuts and other fasteners exposed to weather. Opinions welcome...
Anti Seize- Not good to use?
- Thread starter willbur
- Start date
A wisp around the lower threads... Of course make sure the cylinder head female threads are clean and clear. Torque to spec.
Decision time - what anti seize for spark plugs in Aluminum Honda engine?
I’ve never understood being OK with using copper antiseize in an aluminum application. Yet I see a lot of recommendations to use it on spark plugs. Today I’m stuck in this situation. OE spark plugs came out crunchier than I’d like from our 100k odyssey 3.5L V6. That’s kind of the...
bobistheoilguy.com
Changing Spark Plugs and Lubrication
Been changing spark plugs for over forty years. First motorcycles, then on both cars and motorcycles. I have never lubricated anything relating to spark plugs up to now. Will be changing my later model Beemer with new NGK plugs when the weather warms up, as now beyond the 60,000 miles suggested...
bobistheoilguy.com
I too have stopped using it on my aluminum headed vehicles.
The last plug change in my Accord a couple of the plugs came out hard enough that when I was doing them I was already budgeting in my head to pull the head off and replace it, or at least install a timesert. The threads ended up being fine, but I have no idea how. They were that tight coming out.
The last plug change in my Accord a couple of the plugs came out hard enough that when I was doing them I was already budgeting in my head to pull the head off and replace it, or at least install a timesert. The threads ended up being fine, but I have no idea how. They were that tight coming out.
Last edited:
I use Nickel Never Seize. I just changed OEM NGK plugs with 42K on a turbo 1.6L. They were a bit unwilling to turn, and had that "metal squeak of seizure" noise coming out. Not dealing with that if I can help it on the next change.
I think most plugs have antiseize on from the factory. Seems like a shot of Deep Creep or similar on the (warmed up) threads, & let it sit overnight, use a small impact to rattle them out seems to work for me. Not sure how the average garage can get them out safely hot?
That’s where a good penetrant & a small, dialed back impact is your friend-work them back & forth to get lubrication to the threads.
I don't think it's the anti-seize making them hard to get out, its probably carbon. Plugs now go 80-100k instead of the 30k interval of the 90's and before.
I worked the plugs back and worth over several hours. Poured some graphite lock lube in the plug tunnels and let that work its way down into the threads. I think that really helped much more than the penetrant I first used. I really was surprised how hard it was to get those plugs out- thought I would pull the threads out with the plugs. Champion makes a graphite based spark plug lube I may try.
That's what I first thought, too. Looked closely but I did not see any carbon-just clean bright threads with anti seize on them <shrug>
I have followed the recommendation from spark plug manufacturers, to install them dry. Never had a problem removing a spark plug that has been installed dry. Most of the time, after the first turn or two to break them loose, they can be turned out by hand. That is, of course, assuming that plugs are changed at a reasonable interval. Wait too long and all bets are off.
I thought about an impact but ppl here very strongly recommended against that. Have you tried it?
Yeah but Honda FSM specifies using it and I found traces of it on my OE Honda plugs when I did a change. Go figure...
Not on alum heads. I'd think trice before using it on iron ones too.
3/8” stubby Milwaukee M12, turned on the lowest torque setting. Got the plugs out of the MGM 4.6 2V in my sig-135K on the original Motorcrafts, in for ~19 years-didn’t damage a single thread, amazingly! I was all ready to call the mobile thread repair guy… Torque wrench ONLY to install.
Let’s hear from the folks who have actually installed a set of iridiums in, either dry or with ant-seize, and pulled them out after 100,000 miles ( I’m not talking about pulling the factory plugs.) I might be doing that in another two years if I still have the vehicle. It has anti-seize on them.
Last edited:
Yes, all the data points need to have the number of miles the plugs were in the heads.
Point being, once that anti-sleaze is on it, there is no need for impacts and penetrants.
I R&R plugs at 60K miles MAX and have never had a problem getting them out. I apply a light coating of copper seize - aluminum heads. Like @BHopkins said, leave them in for a very long time and you're asking for trouble.
Scott
I’ve been using a ceramic based anti seize for the last 13 years made by Febi that’s designed for glow plugs. Spark plugs (and glow plugs) have always flown out after using it.
Similar threads
