Another rust question, with pics

[GearheadTool]

Saw a CHEAP car it is a 1995 Nissan Altima. Description states that it is your basic, has some issues most notably a shot muffler making it sound liek a ricer probably has a hole in it and/or rattly etc but otherwise drives and passed inspection early this year car. The price has me interested. Looks in average shape, except for some rust.

Here are the pics. Please tell me everthing I need to know about the rust I see.

First thought: Sand, rust neutralize, body filler (the strongest stuff I can find I heard there is PLENTY stronger than Bondo, including mesh options.) Thanks.

EDIT: And when I say SHEAP car, I mean exactly that. I am interested in this car. It runs and drives. Nuff said.. Ok awaiting feedback.

 

[JHZR2]

walk away. No idea why people would actively pay money for a car in such a condition.

Sometimes a car gets rust, then you must make a call on the car's value to you, and how to deal with it.

I see too many scratches and a deflated tire to think that the PO cared for it at all...

 

[Rand]

if the body is rusting that bad what about everything else?

I'd get it inspected before I did anything.

 

[oggb]

Your best bet is to find someone that does cheap bodywork and have them fix it. They'll know what to do.

Cleaning it up and putting body filler on it would work as a temporary fix, but it wouldn't be my first choice.

Also, if there's rust there I'd check your suspension components and the front subframe.

 

[NHGUY]

Wheelwell rust is a touchy area.It leads to the trunk and inside the rear passenger panels.Its the lip/pinchweld where the outer skin comes together with the wheelhouse.Rust here doesnt stop and can make the vehicle non inspectable.The only way to do it right is to replace quarter panel and wheelhouse (not an option).Otherwise its Bondo Bondo and it comes thru in 6 months.The most solid,but most ugly way is to pop rivet steel strips to the inner wheelhouse and wrap it over the lip to the face of the quarterpanel.Pop riveting it there.Not pretty,but its putting steel back on steel and adding some strength.Fiberglass reinforced Bondos are stronger and waterproof as opposed to straight talc/plastic fillers,but they arent miracle workers.All the rusty steel should be removed (like cancer).In this case that would leave little steel left.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: JRed
Your best bet is to find someone that does cheap bodywork and have them fix it. They'll know what to do.

Cleaning it up and putting body filler on it would work as a temporary fix, but it wouldn't be my first choice.

Also, if there's rust there I'd check your suspension components and the front subframe.


Cheap body work is a waste of money - rust will continue to grow and it is not goingto fix anything. meanwhile, most of the weakness will likely remain.

 

[SrDriver]

Don't walk away. Run!

If you are looking for an older car it could well be worth a trip to the south or southwest finding something that is not in the rust belt.

 

[GearheadTool]

Here is the ad. http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/3215489617.html

Opinions?

Thanks.

 

[rshaw125]

What are you waiting for? I would have already tried to get it for $300 cash. Change every fluid and drive the wheels off it.

 

[stephen9666]

$400 is very cheap. Unless there is much more structural rust underneath, it's probably OK to drive. Not pretty, for sure.

People here on BITOG are unnecessarily afraid/conservative about some things. I definitely wouldn't take the opinion of a member from Alabama on rust. Not trying to bash him, but unless he's from the north, he's not familiar with rust.

I grew up in Iowa, which has horrible rust. That is a good amount of rust on that car. You'll have to look to make sure the structure is fine. But if it is, buy it, drive it and enjoy. You could try a DIY repair if you wanted. Your method is about the best you can do without cutting and welding, as nothing will really stop it permanently.

For $400, you could drive it for a year or two and be done with it when something breaks. It will need a full inspection of the brakes, suspension and other parts, too. It would still be worth it to make basic repairs to make it road-worthy. Tires, suspension and brakes would still be pretty cheap repairs.

I personally might lean towards spending more to get a better car, but prices are so inflated right now that if you need something cheap, you have very few options.

 

[widman]

The main thing to look at is steering and suspension. I could be good, or could be that they are sagging or twisting. I've seen some where you turn the wheel and the steering box moves instead of the wheels.

If that is decent, a thorough pressure wash and spray underneath liberally with rustoleum rust reformer (much cheaper than the alternatives) should stop what is apparent.

To actually save the body, you need to cut and weld in new pieces, or cut out, paint behind to stop what will grow, then rebuild with fiberglass or mats.

 

[Need4racin]

Buy it, to fix rust you cut out the rust, and weld in new metal. The whole area will need to be grinded down to see all the rust pocks. the rust is coming from inside the wheel well out. Salt builds up in the pockets and fender lips. That's what causes rust.

Make sure you can still pass inspection with rust holes, both in fenders and floor. Is rust holes allowed in muffler during inspection? All those things matter how much money you have to put into it.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Quote:
the inside lights don't work anymore because the sunroof leaks slightly on really heavy rains and shorted out the electronics there.

I would wonder what else is shorted out and if the floorboards are also on the way out from the inside (from the rainwater) AND outside (from the road salt).

I would pass, but that is me...

 

[HammerDown]

Originally Posted By: Need4racin
Buy it, to fix rust you cut out the rust, and weld in new metal. The whole area will need to be grinded down to see all the rust pocks. the rust is coming from inside the wheel well out. Salt builds up in the pockets and fender lips. That's what causes rust.

Make sure you can still pass inspection with rust holes, both in fenders and floor. Is rust holes allowed in muffler during inspection? All those things matter how much money you have to put into it.

And in time the rust will simply reappear...no way really to protect the 'weld' behind a blind panel. I welded in new wheel-wells on my F250 > 5 years now and I see it starting to bubble again. No way to prime/protect the metal behind the welds.

 

[joaks]

if it is otherwise okay (ie safe) I would go ahead for a few hundred bucks. You can "fix" the rust with some POR and putty if you feel so ambitious. Yes, that will not be a 100% fix as mentioned. I would just make sure it is SAFE.
cheap car = low expectations!

 

[eljefino]

Get that car already! If it's a turkey you can drive it to a junkyard and get $300.

Most cars are set up so from the rocker pinch weld *in* will be solid long after the rockers and fenders on the outside, rot away. If where the rear trailing arms bolt to the unibody are fine IMO you'll be all set.

But this is all for naught, that car is more than likely sold already.

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get that car already! If it's a turkey you can drive it to a junkyard and get $300.

Most cars are set up so from the rocker pinch weld *in* will be solid long after the rockers and fenders on the outside, rot away. If where the rear trailing arms bolt to the unibody are fine IMO you'll be all set.

But this is all for naught, that car is more than likely sold already.


Yes, this car flew away. It was in Sharon, MA. However the Subaru is still in play..