Another 0w16 Post, but....

[DirectRejection]

I have personally used 0W16 motor oil,
in three vehicles,
for over 280,000 miles total.
There have been no issues,
and I am a severe service driver.

PriusC #1 69,804 miles, totaled in a car wreck.
PriusC #2 143,423 miles.
Currently, Lexus UX 250h F-Sport 71,245 miles, and counting.

TGMO. Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy. Ravenol EFE.
Citgo Supergard. Pennzoil Platinum. Pennzoil Hybrid.
High Performance Lubricants HDMO.
All these diverse formulas.
Zero oil consumption.
None.

SP oils are required to be an upgrade,
in terms of wear issues,
over previous SN, SM, etc oils.
Especially per Sequence IVB and VIII Engine Tests.

I now have almost 75,000 miles of experience
with the Hybridized 2.0L engine,
little brother to the 2.5L engine
found in the 2020 RAV4/Camry/etc.

Everything is fine, BITOG.

 

[aquariuscsm]

My sister came over today with her brand new Camry. First thing I did was pop the hood. HUGE *0W16* sticker under the hood.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Super thin viscosity and maximum protection is an oxymoron.

Agree. Only 0w20 I feel safe with is Redline with its 2.9 HTHs.

 

[GalaxyS8]

Toyota/Nissan I-4 engines have incredible tractable low end power. Paired with touchy throttle mapping means you pulling well at the 1500rpm range.

Therefore these engines spends 90% of the time between 1000-2000rpm, I'm sure even 0w8 oil would work.

 

[blingo]

Please don't just be sure that 0W-8 will work, when you look at those range extender or hybrid engine oils, as we already seem to be learning about HTHSV of SAE 0W-4 https://www.fuelsandlubes.com/digital/flm/FLM-2020-Q3/FLM-2020-Q3.html#p=27
and it's quite probable that some is being tested somewhere in something of Toyota spending some time at some rpm level.

 

[EMPIRE]

I have personally used 0W16 motor oil,
in three vehicles,
for over 280,000 miles total.
There have been no issues,
and I am a severe service driver.

PriusC #1 69,804 miles, totaled in a car wreck.
PriusC #2 143,423 miles.
Currently, Lexus UX 250h F-Sport 71,245 miles, and counting.

No, what you have is 3 vehicles and each is at a specific mi on odo.
Heck, std $1/qt walmart brand oil can probably take most engines into the 200kmi range when the oil and filter is changed on a proper schedule.

With the 3 vehicles I had (two now gone) I think there was nearly 500kmi in total, but the one I still have is at 223kmi now and still purring along just fine. None of them have I ever used what the under the hood sticker says, at least not 100% what it says, never had a oil related issue.

Here's another "whaaaaa" example. When I had these two vehicles ~35yrs ago, my 76 Pontiac TA was a bit of a HO setup, it used Quaker conventional oil at the time and I changed it about every 3-4kmi due to the HO motor, I then took that used oil and would refill my 79 Chevy Monza (4spd buick231, but kind of a junker beat up vehicle at the time, bought it for $100). It was a good way to save a few $$$ at the time. I never saw the Monza go 100kmi on my watch, but never saw an issue either.

 

[blufeb95]

Here's another "whaaaaa" example. When I had these two vehicles ~35yrs ago, my 76 Pontiac TA was a bit of a HO setup, it used Quaker conventional oil at the time and I changed it about every 3-4kmi due to the HO motor, I then took that used oil and would refill my 79 Chevy Monza (4spd buick231, but kind of a junker beat up vehicle at the time, bought it for $100). It was a good way to save a few $$$ at the time. I never saw the Monza go 100kmi on my watch, but never saw an issue either.

I was talking to my neighbor, he said he used nothing but Quaker State in his Monza he had with the Duke in it he said when he took off the valve cover at one point it was sludge city.

 

[JoelB]

These conversations are always so strange to me. It comes down to using what makes you feel good if you don't want to go by manufacturers specs. Your car your choice.

You will never prove that 0w16 is inferior, or that your oil weight you choose is superior. So the entire point is moot.

 

[EMPIRE]

I was talking to my neighbor, he said he used nothing but Quaker State in his Monza he had with the Duke in it he said when he took off the valve cover at one point it was sludge city.

Sludge or not, engine still ran just fine
It's all about how the oil is used (environment, heat, ETA between drops, filter, etc etc).
And sure, engine design is a factor.

 

[EMPIRE]

These conversations are always so strange to me. It comes down to using what makes you feel good if you don't want to go by manufacturers specs. Your car your choice.

You will never prove that 0w16 is inferior, or that your oil weight you choose is superior. So the entire point is moot.

There needs to be context in order to debate it.
w16 vs a w20, the 20 has an advantage at the higher temps.
Protection that satisfies the OEM, no diff between w16 vs w20.
The context is key.

 

[JoelB]

Prove to me that the 20 will out perform the 16 in higher temps. You can’t, so I would argue the context is irrelevant here. As it is most times this question comes up. I’m not saying you would be wrong to run a different weight oil. What would be wrong would be to run a different oil weight and “know” it’s better.

 

[kschachn]

Prove to me that the 20 will out perform the 16 in higher temps. You can’t, so I would argue the context is irrelevant here. As it is most times this question comes up. I’m not saying you would be wrong to run a different weight oil. What would be wrong would be to run a different oil weight and “know” it’s better.

MOFT always wins, so yes from the perspective of “protection“ the higher grade oil is always better. And that has a lot to do with temperature.

 

[JoelB]

I don't really care about the data sheets, that doesn't translate 100% into reality. Saying an oil performed better in your car because it's data sheet is better is just silly. What does more protection really mean? What percent? What's the actual difference in my engine? Everything said in these arguments is conjecture and anecdotal.

To clarify I'm neither for or against someone choosing a different oil grade for their car. They own it and can do whatever they please with it. But to be "sure" or "know" an oil is doing something better for your engine is a fallacy. Unless you could somehow do a controlled test with used oil analysis, but even that has a fudge factor.

 

[EMPIRE]

Prove to me that the 20 will out perform the 16 in higher temps. You can’t, so I would argue the context is irrelevant here. As it is most times this question comes up. I’m not saying you would be wrong to run a different weight oil. What would be wrong would be to run a different oil weight and “know” it’s better.

You have to define what you mean by "out perform".
But sure we can prove it:
w16 vs a w20, the w20 is more viscous at say 100C, and main lubrication "protection" is a function of viscosity. There will be a point at which the w16 fails to protect while the w20 is still doing the job at-hand. Where that point is........ is probably outside the end of acceptable in-service environmental's that the OEM has published for the product. Other lab testing will also show the w20 is a wee-bit more capable.

 

[kschachn]

I don't really care about the data sheets, that doesn't translate 100% into reality. Saying an oil performed better in your car because it's data sheet is better is just silly. What does more protection really mean? What percent? What's the actual difference in my engine? Everything said in these arguments is conjecture and anecdotal.

To clarify I'm neither for or against someone choosing a different oil grade for their car. They own it and can do whatever they please with it. But to be "sure" or "know" an oil is doing something better for your engine is a fallacy. Unless you could somehow do a controlled test with used oil analysis, but even that has a fudge factor.

Data sheets and reality? I really don't know what you're talking about there. It is the manufacturer approvals, certifications and licenses that relate to reality, not the bare data sheets. No one should make a primary oil selection based on a data sheet values.

And there is no such thing as "a controlled test with used oil analysis" to prove or disprove the topic of this thread.

 

[blingo]

Prove,.. there will be a point... – that's funny.

Actually it's more like the end of all BITOG reasoning has come. Not knowing how two base blends compare and what sorts of VM strategies make their viscosities run different courses through the three or four viscosities usually given, will have one nothing but guess at his point. Additivation added in to be figured out of two modern oils that more and more shift things then really tops it off for such attitude facing just two bottles.

 

[JoelB]

Let me back up and ask a new question to the OP. What will you gain running an oil other than the manufacturer recommended spec?

 

[EMPIRE]

Let me back up and ask a new question to the OP. What will you gain running an oil other than the manufacturer recommended spec?

On a hot blistering day of 118F ambient (shade) in a bunch of go fast stop fast traffic, maybe a bit better confidence the the w20 is a pee bit thicker at whatever the hot oil temp is. VIM's (which do not lube anything) also take up space, so a sae20 would be even better (no VIM's and cools better)! The very nature of adding VIM's means the oil naturally degrades with use.

The manual does say "use 0w16, or if you need to, 0w20 will work". Hmmm, so which is it, use the "idiot label" or use what the manual says?

Why not use a 0w30 when the "idiot label" says 10w30.

 

[PimTac]

Let me back up and ask a new question to the OP. What will you gain running an oil other than the manufacturer recommended spec?

that should be a interesting answer he will skate around with.

 

[EMPIRE]

No one should make a primary oil selection based on a data sheet values.

if the OEM says "use API SP+" and there's five make/models that meet that service spec per the datasheet, what then would you look at (other than the OEM recommendation for grade) to decide which oil to use?