Tuned Accord 2.0T - First Oil Change Choices?

[tolian21]

car that is specced for 0w20

It is spec for it, but did you read prior posts and UOA for 2.0t Honda engine that show significant viscosity drop in few thousand miles due to dilution? The 0w30 in this engine will have the same viscosity as 0w20 after few thousand miles.

 

[ZedzAmg]

Do you start your car and run it to redline? If not then all of this is irrelevant. Most if it is anyway since when the oil is even cool it is very thick regardless of the grade. Manufacturers don't "spec" oils, the grade(s) listed in the manual are recommendations and these days aren't based on purely technical reasons.

People keep trying to come up with either disadvantages to a somewhat higher HT/HS or advantages to thinner oils but as seen there aren't any.

I was just answering a question on why not run a 30 or 40 weight with oil temps being under 100C. At 60C an average 40 weight is double the viscosity of a 20 weight. So i really don't know what you are talking about.
Not once did I say thinner or heavier is better. Obviously a higher hths will have better protection.

 

[kschachn]

Sure thing Zed.

 

[TiGeo]

God ****, checked my toyota manuals in the UK. 5w30 and 91 octane fuel, not 87 and 0w20. Same engines.

87 AKI in US = 91 RON in Europe...same fuel.

 

[Revving2Redline]

I had a 2.2 turbo chrysler lebaron in 1987 and a 2.5 1989 Plymouth Acclaim with a turbo.. Ran what Chrysler said in the owners book and never had a engine or turbo issue...both cars had over 190000 on them

I've never known a Dodge to get very far. I know people claim they are regularly seen on the road but the spin is they are usually on the side of the road.

 

[singular9]

87 AKI in US = 91 RON in Europe...same fuel

You are correct, but if you actually read my comment, I said that if you convert the RON from UK to AKI in the states, its 91 US OCTANE. Here is a screenshot from the eu manual for a camry. 95 RON is 91 octane, which is premium fuel in the US. This is a standard a25a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder.

Same with oil. In the EU, if you can't get 0w16 toyota oil, you MUST use higher grade oils. Not in the US, where they do not care.
I guess because people in the US have extra money from cheap fuel they can afford engine replacements? *****

 

[TiGeo]

You are correct, but if you actually read my comment, I said that if you convert the RON from UK to AKI in the states, its 91 US OCTANE. Here is a screenshot from the eu manual for a camry. 95 RON is 91 octane, which is premium fuel in the US. This is a standard a25a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder.

Same with oil. In the EU, if you can't get 0w16 toyota oil, you MUST use higher grade oils. Not in the US, where they do not care.
I guess because people in the US have extra money from cheap fuel they can afford engine replacements? *****

Your comment (post 22) that I quoted didn't say that...I found the other one further along where you clarified that you had converted it. Got it - so yes, 91 in Euro, 87 here apples to apples units.

 

[Bill7]

Intro:

Bought my first turbo car in my life. Pretty much lived in toyota land like a monk and never left for 20 years. Still have an 05 with 300k miles that doesn't have a leak or a burn in sight for another 300k with pretty much no maintenance. Also had plenty of cars after, 07 avalon made it 80k miles before I traded it for an 2015 ES350 and it has 80k on it now. Had several 4 cylinder camry's from 2011-present, all serviced with valvoline 0w20, some were totaled, but my last one made it to 80k miles without an issue using toyota genuine oil 0w16 without an issue. Oil tests came back flawless on all the cars.

But, toyota land is different, I can probably put water into my 2019 A25A motor and it will still run simply because anything that required oil pressure is now long gone (electronic vvti and electric water pump and the works). I stay away from german cars period, so I have zero experience with those, and decided to pick up a good deal on this 2022 accord 2.0 turbo. I hear the 1.5 is a piece of aluminum foil with a honda badge and isn't worth having past 50k miles due to various failures of all sorts of parts and the 2.0 K series is the way to go. I have heard the K series is just as robust as the toyota 2AR and 2GR motors but this one is GDI only and a turbo at that.

I didn't do the first oil change at 5k, had honda do it. But now I am getting close to 10k, so getting ready.

Filter:

Picked up a filter from a company called Hengst. Seemed to be the closest to the OEM without buying OEM at least from the tear downs I have seen. I normally use OEM filters but these were on sale so...oh well bought 3.

Driving Habits:

I drive about 20k miles a year, give or take a few depending on life events. 90% highway miles since I live in the rural south east with lots of open road, heck, even our back roads have 55mph speed limits. I don't think I ever idle at a red light for more than 15 seconds a day, which is probably why my cars last so long. I do have a Ktuner Stage 2 dual tune, eco is factory. Car is garage kept.

My process from what I have read: warm up in eco mode for 2 minutes, start driving, don't go over 2000 RPM until the engine temp gauge is warmed up to normal temps, then I switch to normal mode which has the stage 2 tune (about 4PSI more boost over factory and with early spool enabled for faster turbo response). When I get close to my destination I switch back to eco, run the car real easy or coast without throttle to cool down if needed, let the engine idle in park for 30 seconds to a minute. At home I leave the hood open to let the heat evacuate.

Weather Temps:

The weather here is very strange but I am used to it. In the winter its usually around 32F during the night and 50-60F during the day. Some times when a winter spell comes over it can get as low as 10F at night and 25 during the day (like it was 3 weeks ago). The summers are really long, between April and September it is normal to see 75-80 at night and 95+ during the day for weeks on end with no rain. If the car sits out in the sun it can get to 150+ in the car even in the shade.

5w30:

I know pretty much everyone here agrees that 5w30 or heavier is the way to go, but I have been using 0w20 since it came out over a decade ago and have yet to have an issue. You could say I have a heavy foot sometimes, but thats probably like 2-5% of my yearly driving at best. I avg higher MPG than advertised on all my cars and do like 80+ on the highway every day.

After doing some research royal purple seemed like a great option, but then I dug into additives and stuff and pretty much came to the conclusion that my valvoline is the most balanced one out of what I looked at locally for a reasonable price. Heck, walmart sells it for 25-27$ for 5qts!

So would you say its worth bothering to go heavier weight oil?

Those of you who run 5w30 on your accord 2.0 (if there are some of you like that here) how has at been over the long term?

For your use case, I would run Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP with it's HTHS = 3.5.

 

[singular9]

Your comment (post 22) that I quoted didn't say that...I found the other one further along where you clarified that you had converted it. Got it - so yes, 91 in Euro, 87 here apples to apples units.

My bad then, I think I mentioned that I compared RON vs AKI. But yeah, theres the data. We are being messed with by the manufacturer lol

 

[kschachn]

My bad then, I think I mentioned that I compared RON vs AKI. But yeah, theres the data. We are being messed with by the manufacturer lol

We are? How?

 

[Luftmasse]

You are correct, but if you actually read my comment, I said that if you convert the RON from UK to AKI in the states, its 91 US OCTANE. Here is a screenshot from the eu manual for a camry. 95 RON is 91 octane, which is premium fuel in the US. This is a standard a25a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder.

Same with oil. In the EU, if you can't get 0w16 toyota oil, you MUST use higher grade oils. Not in the US, where they do not care.
I guess because people in the US have extra money from cheap fuel they can afford engine replacements? *****

Wonder why the hybrid takes 95 RON in Europe.

Does the ICE engine take 95 RON also?

 

[singular9]

Wonder why the hybrid takes 95 RON in Europe.

Does the ICE engine take 95 RON also?

They are the same engine dude.... Face palm
Fxs simply means it's battery assisted. It's also detuned to like 160-170hp... You why would the detuned version need 91 octane and the 205hp version need 87.

Logic

 

[Luftmasse]

They are the same engine dude.... Face palm
Fxs simply means it's battery assisted. It's also detuned to like 160-170hp... You why would the detuned version need 91 octane and the 205hp version need 87.

Logic

You make no sense?

You did not answered the question.

I am aware the FXS is battery assisted as I had stated it is a hybrid.

The hybrid is 14.1:1 compression ratio, rated at 208 hp.

The ICE variant is 13.1:1 compression ratio rated at 203-206 depending on the trim.

Where are you getting your information from?

 

[TiGeo]

You make no sense?

You did not answered the question.

I am aware the FXS is battery assisted as I had stated it is a hybrid.

The hybrid is 14.1:1 compression ratio, rated at 208 hp.

The ICE variant is 13.1:1 compression ratio rated at 203-206 depending on the trim.

Where are you getting your information from?

Yeah, not sure on that stuff he is going on about. Any car offered in the U.S. can and does operate safely and efficiently on the min. required octane rating fuel - it's really that simple. Any potential performance and efficiency gains running higher octane fuels, while possible, is often minimal and will not make up for the additional cost/gal going from 87 to 91/93 "premium" gas (w/r to the mpg/efficiency discussion). You only are gaining additional power through additional timing advance/knock resistance and that isn't a guarantee that you even have that on 87 but many cars will see a slight increase in power at the higher end/WOT running higher octane fuels especially turbo engines - compression ratio in a DI engine is less of an indicator of this as that is one advantage of DI - allows higher efficiency without the need to run premium gas (my Focus is this way...13:1:1 or thereabouts ran happily on 87 before I tuned it to run 93). This is beat to a pulp on BITOG but folks still think there is a conspiracy in the U.S. to run 87.

 

[singular9]

You make no sense?

You did not answered the question.

I am aware the FXS is battery assisted as I had stated it is a hybrid.

The hybrid is 14.1:1 compression ratio, rated at 208 hp.

The ICE variant is 13.1:1 compression ratio rated at 203-206 depending on the trim.

Where are you getting your information from?

Yes, the FXS makes a totoal of 208HP combined with half coming from the electric motor. Look at my sig, I own nothing but toyotas so I know what I am talking about and have taken apart more toyota engines than you can count on a couple of hands. The hybrid engine is detuned.

This is straight from toyota "If the engine operates alone, the Camry Hybrid provides 176 horsepower and 163 lb-ft of torque."

Enjoy. Learn how a hybrid works before talking.

Besides, the horsepower makes zero difference to oil that you should use since the entire engine is LITERALLY THE SAME part for part until you reach the flywheel/torque converter.

 

[singular9]

Yeah, not sure on that stuff he is going on about. Any car offered in the U.S. can and does operate safely and efficiently on the min. required octane rating fuel - it's really that simple. Any potential performance and efficiency gains running higher octane fuels, while possible, is often minimal and will not make up for the additional cost/gal going from 87 to 91/93 "premium" gas (w/r to the mpg/efficiency discussion). You only are gaining additional power through additional timing advance/knock resistance and that isn't a guarantee that you even have that on 87 but many cars will see a slight increase in power at the higher end/WOT running higher octane fuels especially turbo engines - compression ratio in a DI engine is less of an indicator of this as that is one advantage of DI - allows higher efficiency without the need to run premium gas (my Focus is this way...13:1:1 or thereabouts ran happily on 87 before I tuned it to run 93). This is beat to a pulp on BITOG but folks still think there is a conspiracy in the U.S. to run 87.

I never said anything about gaining power. jesus how dense can people be these days, no offense but can you please go back and look at the actual manual from toyota that I attached.

The conspiracy is called pricing. And the public can be manipulated using USD more than nuclear war.

Mods, ban me all you want but instead of focusing on language, focus on misinformation instead. At least I provide sources and data. But these two idiots are actually more dense than a black hole.

 

[Luftmasse]

Yeah, not sure on that stuff he is going on about. Any car offered in the U.S. can and does operate safely and efficiently on the min. required octane rating fuel - it's really that simple. Any potential performance and efficiency gains running higher octane fuels, while possible, is often minimal and will not make up for the additional cost/gal going from 87 to 91/93 "premium" gas (w/r to the mpg/efficiency discussion). You only are gaining additional power through additional timing advance/knock resistance and that isn't a guarantee that you even have that on 87 but many cars will see a slight increase in power at the higher end/WOT running higher octane fuels especially turbo engines - compression ratio in a DI engine is less of an indicator of this as that is one advantage of DI - allows higher efficiency without the need to run premium gas (my Focus is this way...13:1:1 or thereabouts ran happily on 87 before I tuned it to run 93). This is beat to a pulp on BITOG but folks still think there is a conspiracy in the U.S. to run 87.

Right. The camry is an Akinston cycle engine. The compression ratio is dynamic, that is how it achieve its efficiency and able to run lower octane.

 

[Luftmasse]

Yes, the FXS makes a totoal of 208HP combined with half coming from the electric motor. Look at my sig, I own nothing but toyotas so I know what I am talking about and have taken apart more toyota engines than you can count on a couple of hands. The hybrid engine is detuned.

This is straight from toyota "If the engine operates alone, the Camry Hybrid provides 176 horsepower and 163 lb-ft of torque."

Enjoy. Learn how a hybrid works before talking.

Besides, the horsepower makes zero difference to oil that you should use since the entire engine is LITERALLY THE SAME part for part until you reach the flywheel/torque converter.

Can you share where you cited your information?

 

[singular9]

Can you share where you cited your information?

Why dont you go and do your due diligence instead of trolling on the internet by trying to disprove facts after I have given evidence?
No, I won't give you anything more. Screw off.

Toyota Camry (XV70) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I can't believe you can't even go on wikipedia yet you know how to type on a forum. *****
I will not tolerate your passive aggressiveness. "Don't be an a-hole"? Go read your original passive aggressive BS. You literally stare at facts and go "nope" I am idiot i will not agree. I am calling you out right here right now as a passive aggressive factless troll.
Another forum full of self righteous trolls that never bring any proof, lab data, links, screenshots, and still say "source bro".

 

[kschachn]

I never said anything about gaining power. jesus how dense can people be these days, no offense but can you please go back and look at the actual manual from toyota that I attached.

The conspiracy is called pricing. And the public can be manipulated using USD more than nuclear war.

Mods, ban me all you want but instead of focusing on language, focus on misinformation instead. At least I provide sources and data. But these two idiots are actually more dense than a black hole.

There is no conspiracy. That's the part that drags the conversation into a black hole.