And once a vehicle gets old enough, it becomes "not worth it" to repair an engine, even if that repair is something like freeing piston rings. And we all know there's oils that prevent that better than others.
Amsoil metric oil
- Thread starter tjakes680
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And once a vehicle gets old enough, it becomes "not worth it" to repair an engine, even if that repair is something like freeing piston rings. And we all know there's oils that prevent that better than others.
Depends on how it was taken care of, and as my comment suggests. if the wrong oil is used for the OCI then the engine would most likely be in worse shape than if the right oil was used for the OCIs done. In other words, if low tier conventional oil was used for a 10K+ mile OCI then that could result in more sludge, stuck rings, and eventually lots of oil burning. Were as if a good synthetic oil was used the engine may be in way better shape at very high miles beause the engine was be much cleaner. Lots of guys on this forum are reporting that cleaning up their engine with HPL or Valvoline Restore & Protect has freed up piston rings and drastically reduce oil consuption - that's pretty worth it if the rest of the car is in decent shape. I service a 2004 Infinity G35 with 180K miles that had routing oil and filter changes and the valve train area looked clean as new and it didn't burn any amount of oil to speak of, and it ran very well with no engine noises, etc.
exactly, a low tier oil could have killed that vehicle by default
This is the result of using which oil? I doubt very much the rings in my Corolla look like this...
Amsoil can keep their metric oil. I demand an SAE rating on all of my oil purchases. 
Dealer bulk. This is an extreme case obviously(engine dependent). After opening many hundreds of engines, if not more over 12 years at a dealer, I will say the only difference I’ve seen between brands is engine cleanliness(not wear). Which these days in the ring land areas is extremely important. I currently have a vehicle that suffers from oil consumption after only using oil from Wally at 5k intervals. If I had used an oil more known to keep pistons cleaner than industry standards I may have avoided this. Otherwise as you and others have mentioned, finding a wear difference between oil brands is extremely unlikely all else being equal.
Worth repeating. Great post!
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Keep in mind that this is a motorcycle thread and that oil does more work in most motorcycles than it does in cars.
But you’re right, cleanliness of the rings is what kills engines.
Agreed. Sorry I got off track.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Sideways pistons/rings have the toughest life
Yeah, so did I, but I just wanted to illustrate that I've never had any oil related problems when using non-boutique brand oils, regardless of application...
If I violated NDA's I've signed, I could show you proof that not all oils are equal in a racing application. Of course the racing application is much more demanding than any street legal engine. It would show that some oils do protect better than others.
In my shared-sump motorcycles, some oils definitely perform better, primarily in shifting characteristics, and ability to maintain slick shifting.
In some LSR bikes I've worked on, some oils did a better job protecting the transmission gears. So we used the oils that protected better. They did happen to be more expensive.
If you can discern no difference in oils run in your bike, then by all means run the cheapest.
For the type of riding I do, I see no difference, which is why run ST. I don't think it's the least expensive, but it's close, and it's actually produced by one of the major companies anyway...
Anything from Amsoil Pablo?? I only hear crickets ....
Yes sorry, I did have some info and got distracted.Anything from Amsoil Pablo?? I only hear crickets ....
Not one reported other problem with the oil since day one.
The batch retain checked out fine.
The only possibility is the interaction of the new oil and old oil on the clutch friction material could have caused the slip, given time and use it possibly could have decreased.
Nothing further.
Ok.
I have replaced gears with wear lines on the tranny teeth, this with 20w50 motorcycle group 3 oils , it wasnt all the gears, just one, top 6th gear. I have a magnet on drain bolt, and I know for a fact, its all gear wear spooge I get on that magnet.
I would think it would be hard to better that with any other oil, but maybe there is?
Same oil, excellent cylinder and ring wear, like none , now, this is not a 3 ring piston design, but super tiny oil ring ports that tend to start clogging after 600 hours, be nice a fix for that, and maintain the lack of cylinder and top end wear.
Right now, Im running some 10w50 Maxima pro plus, just to see if worth the cost, and it would take alot of time, to really get the data I already have on the other oil. Shifting wise/ clutch wise its solid. I actually thought it was quite overly slick but seems to have the necessary clutch bite.
Those are the two items Id like to reduce, oil ring carbon build up after hundereds of hours, and gear teeth wear lines.
now in another bike I ran group 4 pao in a 5w40, and it still generated tranny meatal spooge, just like i see now.
So I come back to how much can another oil really make a differnce in those two areas.
I know a high viscosity is needed on the tranny , but that can have negative benefits with tiny oil ring ports in the top end.
