Amsoil Break-in Oil

[FatOldMan]

I'm going to take a shot in the dark and assume his name is 540rat and his blog is the 540 rat blog? If so, it's been discussed on here more times than you can count, I suggest giving it a search.

Yeah, I was speaking of 540rat. And, doing a search here seems to indicate he doesn't really know what he's talking about. Although there were so many hits, I gave looking before finding threads that actually gave much detail. The threads I found mainly said things like, "we've beaten that nonsense to death already".

So, the main point in question here is, is the claim that nobody should use "break-in" oils because they just cause harm and do not help seat rings correct or false?

 

[OVERKILL]

Yeah, I was speaking of 540rat. And, doing a search here seems to indicate he doesn't really know what he's talking about. Although there were so many hits, I gave looking before finding threads that actually gave much detail. The threads I found mainly said things like, "we've beaten that nonsense to death already".

So, the main point in question here is, is the claim that nobody should use "break-in" oils because they just cause harm and do not help seat rings correct or false?

Most engine builders give a break-in guideline and there don't appear to be any sort of steadfast rules as to what constitutes what. In breaking in a flat-tappet engine, protecting the cam, getting and keep the lifters spinning so they bed-in properly....etc that's the important bit. If the hone job was good, the typical "cycle the load and RPM and don't go WOT for the first bit" process should bed them just fine regardless of what's in the sump.

Personally, I've never used a break-in oil. When my buddy and I were breaking in some professionally assembled SBC's we used a 15w-40 HDEO and followed the cam break-in process to the letter so we didn't wipe a lobe. When we had the roller engine built we also used an HDEO, I think it may have been the same one, just Kendall 15w-40 which is what the builder recommended. We changed it after 1,000Km and then took it to the track.

Most mass assembled engines come with a pretty generic factory fill that's the same or similar to their service fill. For Mercedes, that's M1 0w-40, I expect also for Porsche. For my Jeep I assume it was probably SRT 0w-40, but I could be wrong. While there has been UOA evidence as to some factory fills being different in terms of viscosity and additive levels, discussion have also delved into the chemistry of assembly lubes perhaps skewing those results and the oil itself really just being generic.

 

[FatOldMan]

So, the consensus here seems to be to not use the break-in oil. And most people I’ve talked to say that the builder’s oil change recommendation interval is ridiculous. (50 miles, 150, 250, 500, 1000). But, I will do it. But I will ditch the break-in oil at the 50 mile mark, maybe even a bit early like 45 miles. Then do the rest of the oil changes with my 5w30 Amsoil Signature that I have In my garage. At 1000 miles, I will use the final oil, which will be M1 15w50.

 

[Rat407]

To me what can it hurt? Nothing! Had a friend run it for 500 miles in a Hyundai engine he rebuilt. It runs just fine now with 5k miles on it. Looking forward to seeing how well it does. Would it have done the same if he followed the recommendations of what is posted above, probably? Why is everyone so bent on discouraging what one to try? If it isn't common practice then it isn't any good, really?

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

So, the main point in question here is, is the claim that nobody should use "break-in" oils because they just cause harm and do not help seat rings correct or false?

Lets wordsmith that a bit.

There is no legitimate "proof" they cause harm- there's just no "proof" they provide a needed or absolutely necessary benefit or function that a conventional oil ( dino or synthetic) cant equally provide on the same level playing field.

On the seating rings part- that's an old wives tale more than anything.

The hard sharp edges of the ring are riding against the asperities of the cross hatch in a mixed boundary regime. (fluid bed in the low areas- metal contact along the peaks and edges)

These are going to "shave" themselves to a state of relative equilibrium regardless of the oil used because they have no choice but to.

On the cams and stuff, that's a different subject where there is a lot of misunderstanding but beyond the scope of this post.

 

[FatOldMan]

There is no legitimate "proof" they cause harm- there's just no "proof" they provide a needed or absolutely necessary benefit or function that a conventional oil ( dino or synthetic) cant equally provide on the same level playing field.

Well, that is sufficient for me to conclude to not use the break-in oil after the first 50 miles.

 

[Silverado12]

If it's a race engine then go with what the rebuilder says to do. I've broken in engines just using conventional oil b/c that's all we had. STP oil additive was my assembly lube of choice and it worked well. Always plastigauge the crank and rod bearings when the parts come back from the machine shop and you should be ok for just a regular engine.

 

[Gene K]

My engines usually get break-in oil for the first 30 minutes cause that's what the builder puts in on the dyno for the initial parts seating. I don't think it's anything exotic though. Just low detergent oil. Then he drains it and and cuts the filter. Refills with VR1 SAE 30 and does a stepped load and rpm break-in followed by another drain and filter cut and refills with the same oil and does tuning and final dyno pulls. After that he drains it and installs my oil of choice and sends it on it's way with instructions to change it after 30 passes and check the filter.

All that may not be required but as long as nothing goes "bang" I'm happy.

 

[benelli7d]

I've been building engines, both race and HP street, for 56 years and in that time I've not seen much problem with break in until the oil manufacturers were forced to remove the zinc and some other things for the tree huggers. But, after that was done I've seen a lot of cams get wiped out due to a failure to follow recommended break in procedures. Today it's pretty easy to ruin a flat tappet cam, especially with the increased spring pressures that most of us run in our performance engines. I like a good quality, high zinc break in oil for just that reason and that reason only! For any roller cam engine or ring seating etc., I wouldn't waste my time or money on break in oil. It's just not needed for those purposes but, it is definitely worth it in a flat tappet engine! Just my $.02 worth from a lot of years making engines sing.

 

[Pelican]

Got my buddies junker 350z engine completely rebuilt...even added a set of barely used forged pistons....

Anyway I've always used the oil that's going to run in the motor to break it in with...my buddy wants to use this amsoil break stuff...it's like 30w...any experience with it..

Don't know if it matters, after some tuning, we are hoping this is a 600hp motor running 22psi of boost..

Modern oils and machining have made breaking-in oils obsolete.

 

[benelli7d]

w

Modern oils and machining have made breaking-in oils obsolete.

Wrong!

 

[PoorMans180SX]

There is a chemical advantage to not having detergents in your break-in oil. For one, you don't need them, as everything should be clean as a whistle. Two, they don't compete with the anti-wear additives. You also don't really want friction modifiers in your break in oil. There are plenty of articles about this stuff out there on the internet, both from formulators and engine builders. Everyone here trusts formulators so much I'm surprised there's such a distaste for break-in oils.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/08/break-in-oils/

 

[benelli7d]

There is a chemical advantage to not having detergents in your break-in oil. For one, you don't need them, as everything should be clean as a whistle. Two, they don't compete with the anti-wear additives. You also don't really want friction modifiers in your break in oil. There are plenty of articles about this stuff out there on the internet, both from formulators and engine builders. Everyone here trusts formulators so much I'm surprised there's such a distaste for break-in oils.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/08/break-in-oils/

Yah, what he said. Finally, some logic on the subject! Thanks