Got disappointing news from engine builder oil related

$250 rip off fee to email info that would take seconds for him to find, "we keep all data on file." That speaks volumes to me.
it's bad business. They could raise the total price $250 and include the build sheet for free and it's a win/win.
 
I hope he didn't just install your parts without measurement cause you furnished the parts. Seen it happen to much over the years. One I remember like it was yesterday the builder built engine and it destroyed itself quickly, then repaired only to destroy again. Customer brought it to me. I completely rebuilt it after getting the parts from Toyota and ran factory oil requirement. Last time I seen owner he stated he has 300k on my rebuild and it just started using oil. Oh it was a Supra twin turbo six speed.
 
Flip side: that is their intellectual property. Why should it be given away for free?

You bought a service/product. Not the rights to the knowledge or design. Ex: you bought the fried chicken, not the fried chicken recipe.

Just my 2 cents. Capitalism is great but it can be a B sometimes. 🤷‍♂️
He's asking for specs to a build that he paid for not CAD design. For example, I asked Dave from HPL for supercar 0w20 oil specs and he PMd me on Christmas day with the specs (which earned my business @High Performance Lubricants ), he didn't send me the oil chemistry and their manufacturing. Same exact thing here.

This is literally like saying you got an alignment or a leak down test but the shop charges you for the print out saying the numbers.... when you say it out loud it's actually ridiculous.
 
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He's asking for specs to a build that he paid for not CAD design. For example, I asked Dave from HPL for supercar 0w20 oil specs and he PMd me on Christmas day with the specs (which earned my business), he didn't send me the oil chemistry and their manufacturing. Same exact thing here. Another 2 cents
That was great of him - much respect. But once again it is not a requirement of the initial purchase.
 
Builder probably pissed you didn’t buy the parts through him at his markup. He’s looking to make up the loss. Like you I’d be a little upset too.
If his reputation is that good then he tells the client upfront, "I supply the parts or there is no guarantee" or "I supply that parts or you find another engine builder." Regarding the markup, if the client is supplying the parts he can always allow for that in his price quote, so there's nothing lost in the parts markup. In my 45 plus years of painting, occasionally customers wanted to supply their own materials. 9 out of 10 times they'd buy cheap paint making my job harder, and cost me more time working with junk. I quickly learned to pass on those jobs, or spec the paint and let them schlep to the store and buy it.
 
If his reputation is that good then he tells the client upfront, "I supply the parts or there is no guarantee" or "I supply that parts or you find another engine builder." Regarding the markup, if the client is supplying the parts he can always allow for that in his price quote, so there's nothing lost in the parts markup. In my 45 plus years of painting, occasionally customers wanted to supply their own materials. 9 out of 10 times they'd buy cheap paint making my job harder, and cost me more time working with junk. I quickly learned to pass on those jobs, or spec the paint and let them schlep to the store and buy it.
Good points. If he’s that good it should have been dealt with up front and reflected in the price.
 
Just use a 40 grade. But what engine is this and what's your cold and hot idle oil pressure. I bet it's fine with a 5w-40. 15w-40 if it doesn't get cold.

I'm going to get the idle PSI tomorrow afternoon. Not ignoring you, it's just cold and rainy. Tomorrow its going to be mid 60s.
 
What a bunch of miserable blow hards. Trying to scam you out of $250 just to tell you what they already have on hand for what you already paid them thousands for on the rebuild? Insane, the build sheet should be free if you're their customer.

Just use a 40 grade. But what engine is this and what's your cold and hot idle oil pressure. I bet it's fine with a 5w-40. 15w-40 if it doesn't get cold.

FINALLY getting back around to this. Between then and now I've managed to lose my Moroso oil pan magnetic bolt. So for now I have a regular bolt in it's place. I need to research a new magnetic drain plug.

But anyways here is the oil pressure at cold (1500rpms cold idle)

oil.webp






And this is the oil pressure at operating temp (750rpm idle)

oil2.webp






Some points of note that I found interesting:

1) The hot idle seems about 10psi higher than most B series owners report

2) Anytime I would rev the motor or raise the RPMs the oil pressure would shoot up to 85psi and then fall back down with the RPMs.
 
FINALLY getting back around to this. Between then and now I've managed to lose my Moroso oil pan magnetic bolt. So for now I have a regular bolt in it's place. I need to research a new magnetic drain plug.

But anyways here is the oil pressure at cold (1500rpms cold idle)

View attachment 257429





And this is the oil pressure at operating temp (750rpm idle)

View attachment 257430





Some points of note that I found interesting:

1) The hot idle seems about 10psi higher than most B series owners report

2) Anytime I would rev the motor or raise the RPMs the oil pressure would shoot up to 85psi and then fall back down with the RPMs.
What oil are you using to be precise. And maybe your oil pump doesn't have pressure relief valve or it does but it has a very stiff spring that is possibly set to 85 PSI which is high but not crazy. If you want to tell you can test it by having the engine fully warmed up and rev and hold in 750 RPM increments then check what your pressure is. Once you see it flatline that's when the relief valve opens. On my 2005 GM 6.0 that's about 40 PSI with 15w-40, that's when it starts to relieve. My fully hot idle is never less than 35 PSI so when I accelerate to 2k rpms or less it only goes up about 5 PSI then starts relieving unless I get on the gas then I can get it to about 50-55 or so.

But at any rate 27 psi at hot idle is fine for it. If others have 17 psi or so yeah I'd be a bit irked.
 
What oil are you using to be precise. And maybe your oil pump doesn't have pressure relief valve or it does but it has a very stiff spring that is possibly set to 85 PSI which is high but not crazy. If you want to tell you can test it by having the engine fully warmed up and rev and hold in 750 RPM increments then check what your pressure is. Once you see it flatline that's when the relief valve opens. On my 2005 GM 6.0 that's about 40 PSI with 15w-40, that's when it starts to relieve. My fully hot idle is never less than 35 PSI so when I accelerate to 2k rpms or less it only goes up about 5 PSI then starts relieving unless I get on the gas then I can get it to about 50-55 or so.

But at any rate 27 psi at hot idle is fine for it. If others have 17 psi or so yeah I'd be a bit irked.

Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro forumula

My oil pressure seems to be what it should be for this motor. The warm idle is like I said, about 10psi higher than some have reported but this motor is also built with different specs than factory.

Seems the relief spring opens at 80psi***
 
Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro forumula

My oil pressure seems to be what it should be for this motor. The warm idle is like I said, about 10psi higher than some have reported but this motor is also built with different specs than factory.

Seems the relief spring opens at 80psi***
Unless you really need that 0w you can try a 15w-40 for extra idle pressure. 0w-40 does tend to sheer to a 30. But 27 at idle is fine so it could stay. What's your cruising psi? like 60 or so.
 
Unless you really need that 0w you can try a 15w-40 for extra idle pressure. 0w-40 does tend to sheer to a 30. But 27 at idle is fine so it could stay. What's your cruising psi? like 60 or so.

I'm not sure. To be honest I don't have a gauge in cabin and only used this spare gauge I had around for a quick look to answer your question prior. But yes, I'd assume 60ish
 
Flip side: that is their intellectual property. Why should it be given away for free?

You bought a service/product. Not the rights to the knowledge or design. Ex: you bought the fried chicken, not the fried chicken recipe.

Just my 2 cents. Capitalism is great but it can be a B sometimes. 🤷‍♂️
I don't know the laws well enough, but any of the "right to repair" type stuff around cars at various state/Federal levels negate any of this? I don't know the answer, but it's where my head went if I were trying to find a way to force the issue and get the data if I were the OP.

OP, if the laws don't help in this case, did you try wearing a pair of short cutoff jean shorts and a low cut v-neck T-shirt? I heard that works on some people but can't remember all the specifics...🫣🤣
 
I used to be very good friends with an engine builder. I think it's ridiculous for them not to provide you with such simple information.
That is something they should be able to provide you at a whim. There is no secret formula.
Exactly. Bearing clearances are not proprietary info. Neither are ring endgaps. There are formulae and established standards for those.

Cam specs are another story for public disclosure, but even then the buyer should get them!
 
Can the oil pressure tell you (ballpark) the bearing clearances? Or at least if the weight is correct?
 
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