Amsoil Break-in Oil

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Sep 23, 2014
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Got my buddies junker 350z engine completely rebuilt...even added a set of barely used forged pistons....

Anyway I've always used the oil that's going to run in the motor to break it in with...my buddy wants to use this amsoil break stuff...it's like 30w...any experience with it..

Don't know if it matters, after some tuning, we are hoping this is a 600hp motor running 22psi of boost..
 
If he wants to save some money, run Mobil 1 and some zinc additive. Amsoil gets their oil from Exxon so it's basically Mobil 1 under a different name with different additives. Why people spend the money on that stuff is beyond me. I've tried it, and it didn't make much difference over Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1. Amsoil used to be something special, but now they're riding on their name, off the shelf synthetics have caught up and beaten them in many categories.
 
Break-in oils are a fools run. If they ere good at anything, we'd run them all the time...

Stay away. Run a quality dino oil so the rings will seat quickly and be done with it. Go 500 or 1,000 miles and change it all.
 
Yeah I kind of figured that, I've never even heard of a break in oil....

I broke in my Camaro with 20w50, changed the oil at 500 and 1000 miles per my engine builder
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
If he wants to save some money, run Mobil 1 and some zinc additive. Amsoil gets their oil from Exxon so it's basically Mobil 1 under a different name with different additives. Why people spend the money on that stuff is beyond me. I've tried it, and it didn't make much difference over Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1. Amsoil used to be something special, but now they're riding on their name, off the shelf synthetics have caught up and beaten them in many categories.


Amsoil gets SOME base oils from Exxon Mobil, and the oil formulations are not that close. Not sure why people repeat that myth here and then try to come across as knowledgeable.

To the OP, if this is not a race only engine, then likely you won't need Amsoil Break-in Oil. However to just say t doesn't or won't work - well that's just a guess. The main benefit of the super high additive, non friction modifier oil is for new flat-tappet camshafts and lifters for racing and some street engines. Redline sells additives and assembly lube for this - but I'm sure it's just snake oil.
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Originally Posted By: FranklinJL
Got my buddies junker 350z engine completely rebuilt...even added a set of barely used forged pistons....

Anyway I've always used the oil that's going to run in the motor to break it in with...my buddy wants to use this amsoil break stuff...it's like 30w...any experience with it..

Don't know if it matters, after some tuning, we are hoping this is a 600hp motor running 22psi of boost..


with the boring and improvements done to the engine, i myself would run the amsoil break in oil for about 500 miles before changing over to the oil you will be using all the time, it's cheap insurance and it appears the engine has been heavily modified.
 
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Originally Posted By: CT8
Break in oil , A fool is born everyday !


In the case of a modern v6 roller-cam engine, maybe its foolish. But its foolish NOT to use a break-in oil for anything with big valve springs and a flat-tappet cam.
 
You and I are polar opposites. I will never run a break-in oil. I have never found one with a useful add-pak that could not be done better with off the shelf modern oils.

That's why I just ordered 2 cases of Chevron Delo 15W-30 SD. That IS my break-in oil. And yes, I've used VR-1, Brad Penn, and Joe Gibbs before. I've just walked away from that whole scenario ...

I'd still use VR-1 (although it's not specifically a "break-in" oil) if it was available here any more
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Comp Cams break-in oil is a serious joke
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To my way of thinking an SD HDEO qualifies as a "break-in oil" even if its not labelled as such.

I used to just throw in a cheap SAE 30 for 20 minutes along with all the cam assembly paste I'd smeared on the lobes and lifters and call it good, but with the surge in cam failures over the last 10 years (and yes, at least some due to poor metallurgy from cam makers), today I'd err on the side of caution and would use either an HDEO or a dedicated break-in oil. I wouldn't go top-dollar super-boutique from the cam supplier necessarily, but I wouldn't use garden variety SN, Dexos, A5/B5 etc. in a slider cam engine with big springs, either.
 
Yup, we agree that Delo SD is "break-in" oil. Since VR-1 was pulled from the Calif market, I searched high and low for a useful oil for flat tappet motors when I rebuild. I'll do 2 or 3 more over the next couple of years (schedule depends on Pop and elder care, he's 97 in few days...).

I have at least one more BBC lined up, another SBC and very likely an SBF. I also have a couple of outboards, but they get a whole other scenario
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I'll light these on Delo SD and run that for 500 miles. If all signs are good and the filter come off clean and nothing much on the drain plug magnet, I'll prolly just move them along to Rotella T6.

The next BBC will get a Crane cam and Crower lifters. Used to always run Chet Herbert cams, and never had a bad experience. But can't get through to the Herbert's and don't know what's going on there (?), so Crane it is.

The SBC and the SBF are still up in the air... Need my BIL to weigh in on final goals ...
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
For a 350z a break in oil is useless , maybe for a big V8 with a wild flat tappet cam that needs loads of zinc on first start up.

This. Break in oils are far from useless, but they are pretty much useless in certain applications.
 
Hope it is okay to revive an old thread. I was looking for information on break-in oils and found this thread. I just had an engine built and the vendor recommended an elaborate break-in procedure and told to use break in oil. They said to change the oil at 50 miles, 150, 250, 500 and finally at 1000 miles to the standard oil. The shop is going to put in Motul 0w40 break in oil. I never used a break-in oil so I figured I would research it. And I found a thread on a Vette forum about break-in oils by someone that at least seemed to know what he was talking about. He said he is an engineer and has a blog listing characterists of 170 different oils if I recall. Anyway, at least according to him, doesn’t matter what kind of engine you have, tappet or no, do not use break in oils.

Break in oils, in theory, have low anti-wear additives to allow for quick ring sealing. But, high zinc to prevent wear on the rest of the engine. According to him, you just can’t have one oil that allows wear on some things and not on other things. Further, he says that zinc, just by itself, tells you nothing about an oil’s anti-wear characteristics and so even if break-in oils have a lot of zinc, they still stink at anti-wear. And of critical importance, he says that rings don’t actually get seated any better or any faster with break-in oils. Thus, you are just harming your engine using break-in oils.

Again, this is not me speaking, I’m not an engineer so I don’t really know. But, I can say that it seems to make sense to me. High performance engines come out of factories all the time and don’t need no stinkin’ break-in oil. Since my shop is going to install Motul 5w40 break-in oil, I think I will follow their procedure for the first 50 miles. And I will do the oil changes at their recommended intervals even though that is probably more than really necessary. But, I don’t want to do fewer changes than recommended so I will do it.

The author suggested using oil on the thin side, like 5w-30. I happen to have about 4 gallons of Amsoil 5w-30 in my garage, so I will use that for my “break-in” oil for the oil changes at 50, 150, 250 and 500 miles.

I don’t know if you can link to other forums here. So I didn’t put a link. Search for “Test data on 9 different break-in oils”
 
First - Welcome! 🎉

Next...

Sounds like a bunch of doublespeak to me...

“Low anti-wear” but “high zinc”. When the zinc is an anti-wear additive?

I’m not an oil engineer, and I leave the detailed, precise refutation to the experts, but my hogwash detector spiked on what I was reading in your post...

If you change out the oil at 50 miles, and then run the engine on any oil you choose, including AMSOIL, you’re going to be fine.
 
“Low anti-wear” but “high zinc”. When the zinc is an anti-wear additive?

That's his point. According to him, zinc is not the anti-wear panacea it is cracked up to be. And that in fact, zinc by itself is useless, even worse than useless. There are zinc additive products you can mix into your oil but every time such zinc additives are independently tested, they show they actually increase wear. At any rate, you might find his article of interest.

If you change out the oil at 50 miles, and then run the engine on any oil you choose, including AMSOIL, you’re going to be fine.

Well, we agree on the plan.
 
Run the engine on the oil of choice for the life and change initially around the 500 mile mark (with filter)

The entire modern concept of a break in oil is a marketing campaign preying on fear and ignorance.

Don't buy the hype and bull of needing a dino over a synthetic either. ( what little break-in there is in a properly built machine is a mixed boundary regime so there will be the "wear' on the asperities and over the run regardless because there will be metal to metal contact)

If there is a mechanical issue with the clearances, tolerances or machining- no amount of "break-in" anything is going to make it better.

Challenge anyone who tells you different to produce legitimate empirical tests with pictures by a competent and qualified source properly reviewed showing a clear and distinct difference or benefit from a "break-in" oil over a conventional or synthetic.

YT videos, peoples opinions ( that are unsupported by facts and data) and anything from Project Farm is not considered the gospel or "true" just because many people who know less about it than they do believe it too.
 
That's his point. According to him, zinc is not the anti-wear panacea it is cracked up to be. And that in fact, zinc by itself is useless, even worse than useless. There are zinc additive products you can mix into your oil but every time such zinc additives are independently tested, they show they actually increase wear. At any rate, you might find his article of interest.



Well, we agree on the plan.

I'm going to take a shot in the dark and assume his name is 540rat and his blog is the 540 rat blog? If so, it's been discussed on here more times than you can count, I suggest giving it a search.
 
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