Pat, wear is submicronic. Unless you are doing particle counts the analysis will be picking up the wear metals.
Your statement above is simply untrue,
Also the absolute rating for the Amsoil by-pass is about 3 microns.
Amsoil ASL 5w30, Dodge Dak 4.7, 16k miles
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Your statement above is simply untrue,
Also the absolute rating for the Amsoil by-pass is about 3 microns.
Yes, first run on Amsoil. I ran the oil a few thousand miles at the start without the bypass, but it's been on for the majority of the miles.
The air filter uses a K&N cone, and I added K&N's oiled foam wrap. It's not a fine foam, but it helps keep dirt out.
I was actually a little worried about it, but since the silicon is at average levels, I think it's fine, especially with the mileage.
My main reasoning for the bypass is just to keep the oil cleaner, not to extend the drain to max possible.
Okay. So 4800 is a base mileage to make calculations then.
Just to add, I work on BMW autos for a living. The oil drain interval for the late model cars is 15k miles, or annually.
Synthetic oil must be used, of course, and BMW uses Castrol Syntec 5w30 for everything but the "M" cars.
For the most part, there aren't any problems with this oil interval. I've seen sludge in several cars that have gone beyond 15k, with some minor sludge in cars that are within the interval.
I figure that if Syntec could work to that mileage, then Amsoil should too, especially using better filtration.
Synthetic oil must be used, of course, and BMW uses Castrol Syntec 5w30 for everything but the "M" cars.
For the most part, there aren't any problems with this oil interval. I've seen sludge in several cars that have gone beyond 15k, with some minor sludge in cars that are within the interval.
I figure that if Syntec could work to that mileage, then Amsoil should too, especially using better filtration.
If this is the first run with Amsoil, you are probably cleaning out some pre-existing engine deposits; hence the thickening. A properly functioning bypass filter should keep the total solids level in the 0.1%-0.2% range.
Engine wear looks fine and some fresh oil will boost the TBN back up a bit. Blackstone results on TBN are very conservative, so anything down to a 1.0 is fine....
Tooslick
Engine wear looks fine and some fresh oil will boost the TBN back up a bit. Blackstone results on TBN are very conservative, so anything down to a 1.0 is fine....
Tooslick
I wouldn't assume that considering you are talking about two different vehicles. I remember reading about sludge problems on the Dakota but I don't recall the years or the engine that was experiencing them. You will have to check another forum for that info. If yours is one of the sludge prone then that could explain the excess thickening.
Yeah, all the 4.7 engines will do it in cold weather and short trip driving. Mine did it a winter ago when I only drove 4 miles to work. I was concerned at first, because a LOT of yellow snot was building up in the oil fill tube. From what I gathered, it was due to the PCV system pulling the crankcase vapors up through the plastic fill tube (cooler area), just below the cap, and the cooling fan air would aid in condensing all the blowby gasses and moisture.
I was certain that some of that condensation was contaminating my oil. When I changed to the Amsoil (still cool climate) I noticed that when the last bit of oil came out of the pan, there was a small trail of yellow coming out with the oil-very slight, but it was there. I took this as being moisture that was on top of the oil, draining down from the tube.
Changing to Amsoil didn't change the snot level. I removed the oil fill tube, and wrapped the whole thing with insulated tape, to help retain heat in the tube, and reduce the affects of the outside airflow around it. That helped a lot, but it doesn't eliminate it.
Basically, the engine needs to be hot for a length of time to burn off the moisture in the crankcase. Since I'm now driving my truck longer distances, I haven't noticed any at all.
On another note, I've seen the same thing in PCV valves on BMW's, they just aren't visible.
Check again.
PROPERTIES:
Values Should Be / Values Tested Were
SUS Viscocity @ 210F 56-68/81
Flash Point >365/410
Fuel % Antifreeze % 0/0.0
Water % 0/0
Insolubles % 0.3
TBN 2.7
Maybe it's just me but didn't anyone notice the viscosity increase just a weeeee bit from the 56-68 range to 81
. Otherwise your wear numbers looked real good
. Just hope if you have sludge problem they don't give you a difficult time with the warranty for the long OCI. Though from what I read they seem to turn down warranty claims for sludge even if the oil was changed on a regular basis by the dealer
.
Whimsey
Whimsey
Whimsey - at least 3 folks mentioned the thickening.
Sorry, I guess with old age I'm becoming deaf, dumb and blind
Whimsey
They said, "...the viscosity, which read way up there in the 15w/40 range."
I believe they were infering that the oil was a thicker 40 Weight more like the typical HDEO 15W-40 as opposed to the typical lighter PCMO 10W-40.
Gene
It's still posted the same way as I originally posted it.
The last section has the values as a "should be", and then the "tested values were".
The "Elements" and the "Properties" segments are seperated and in reverse order from each other.
Blackstone's actual chart has the Properties over/under, rather than the Elements left to right chart.
....Like this......
Insolubles
Values Should Be: Tested Values Were: 0.3
Sorry for the confusion.
Hi Tech
What was the consumption of oil? I have a 4.7 in my jeep. I use Amsoil 0W-30. On last change went 9300 miles with no consumption and previous change 11,300. Note just using the Amsoil
oil wetted foam air filter and their Spin on oil filter. Changed about once per year.
Where did you tap off for the bypass on the 4.7 and where did you run the return? I want to mount one on the Grand Cherokee and tap off the pressure sensor but dont know where to run the return line. Also is tight, may mount it on the frame undeneath.
I also have a 00 Durango with 5.9. I use the Bypass on that one and have gone 2years and 13,000 on last change, again no oil consumption. I mounted the bypass behind battery and tapped off pressure sensor and returned thru the oil cap on the valve cover.
I have used the bypass systems on all my Turbo cars( Daytonas) and they work awesome.
VNT
VNT
What was the consumption of oil? I have a 4.7 in my jeep. I use Amsoil 0W-30. On last change went 9300 miles with no consumption and previous change 11,300. Note just using the Amsoil
oil wetted foam air filter and their Spin on oil filter. Changed about once per year.
Where did you tap off for the bypass on the 4.7 and where did you run the return? I want to mount one on the Grand Cherokee and tap off the pressure sensor but dont know where to run the return line. Also is tight, may mount it on the frame undeneath.
I also have a 00 Durango with 5.9. I use the Bypass on that one and have gone 2years and 13,000 on last change, again no oil consumption. I mounted the bypass behind battery and tapped off pressure sensor and returned thru the oil cap on the valve cover.
I have used the bypass systems on all my Turbo cars( Daytonas) and they work awesome.
VNT
VNT
VNT, I tapped at the oil pressure sensor, and returned to the oil pan. I originally was going to put the return at the oil fill cap, but that is right where the PCV pulls the crankcase vapors from, so I went with the pan.
I never added any oil until I changed the filters, which was not long ago. My engine uses very little oil, and may have been close to a quart low, if that. To expect better is asking a bit much for a V8 that tows some.
I mounted the bypass filter to the front of the FIPK2 airbox. This wouldn't be possible on the stock air intake, but it's easy to get to the way I did it. I'll try to take some pictures of it and post them this weekend.
I never added any oil until I changed the filters, which was not long ago. My engine uses very little oil, and may have been close to a quart low, if that. To expect better is asking a bit much for a V8 that tows some.
I mounted the bypass filter to the front of the FIPK2 airbox. This wouldn't be possible on the stock air intake, but it's easy to get to the way I did it. I'll try to take some pictures of it and post them this weekend.
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