I think 7500 miles is the sweet spot when using a 10k/yearly oil.
am i ok or brainwashed for OCI
- Thread starter joel95ex
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That might be true, however that is the 20,000 mi oil.
I do 5k-7500 mile changes on mpfi but never will I on DI. I'm doing 2k winter 3k summer on our DI Mazda.
Each vehicle us an individual. I've seen an. awesome 20,000 mi UOA on Amsoil ASL on a 2.7EB. The oil wasn't even stressed. TBN, dilution, soot, oxidation and nitration said it had many more miles left in it. I've also seen 3,000 mi analysis were an oil was trashed in an Ecoboost.
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If it were Ravenol/ Amsoil SS price I would be inclined to push it. At castrol edge price, oil is cheap and engines are not.
Is our 2019 Mazda CX-5 2.5l non-turbo DI or not? Thanks
I didn't suggest an interval in that post. I was just pointing out it wasn't the Edge 10K Oil, it was the EP 20K. If you actually intended to post "I think 7,500 mi is the sweet spot for 20K oil", I withdraw my comment.
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IMHO, don't go just by miles on oil, figure out what engine running hours you don't want to exceed per OCI and go by miles or hours whichever comes first. I go by 4k miles or 150hrs and usually hit miles limit first. You can go by say 7500 miles and 250hrs or so.
Studies have shown oil degradation tracks fuel usage more closely than hours or mileage.
Fuel Use Based (250 gal)
20 mpg avg = 5000 mi
30 mpg avg = 7500 mi
Hours Based (250 hr)
20 mph avg = 5000 mi
60 mph avg = 15000 mi
Good point in post above too.
I normally reach 4k miles with ~130hrs running time and average under 30mph due to fair bit of city driving.
I normally reach 4k miles with ~130hrs running time and average under 30mph due to fair bit of city driving.
It should give you confidence knowing you likely have a 100% buffer compared to the Honda 0W-20 it was likely programmed for. At least it will givve you confidence to at least not be second guessing the OLM and changing it at 50%.
Incidentally you didn't by chance change that in March last year did you? The newer Honda's have a default 365 day clock if you don't put on the miles fast enough.
You don't have to do a UOA every time.
However, since this is the longest you have gone, I would get one and get the TBN so you will know how far you can go under the same driving conditions.
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My own personal formula has always been 5,000 miles on a synthetic that meets approvals, while acquiring it on sale, rebate or whatever. Same thing for the filter.
I have occasionally deviated. Sometimes I get an itch to buy a “better” oil and run it longer. I’ve done it with TGMO. I’ve done it with Mobil EP. And actually I’m doing it with Mobil1 EP right now. But usually it’s Mobil1 on a rebate, or Pennzoil with a rebate, Super Tech, Shell RGT on rebate, autozone rebates. That stuff.
The thing is I’m curious. I’m curious if 10,000 mile intervals using something like a Mobil1 EP will do the job and allow me to still keep a vehicle 300,000 miles. That’s my goal (300,000 miles). I’ve always thought more frequent oil changes would get me there, BUT I didn’t quite get there on a Honda Accord once (289,000 miles), and I adhered to 3,000 mile intervals the whole way (conventional). By the time I hit 280,000 miles the thing was consuming oil, stalling quite a bit at traffic lights. Half the car had already been replaced (suspension, engine mounts, cooling system, steering system, exhaust). Get the picture? The 3,000 mile safe interval didn’t really do anything in helping me reach my goal of 300,000. The engine still burned oil, stalled and half the car was replaced once, twice and heading for a third. And in the end I was left with a TON OF OIL RECEIPTS. And an engine that was wiped out...sitting in a car that also was beyond wiped out. And I took care of this thing and babied it like no ones business. It didn’t matter. So, maybe extended drains might be worth a try?
I have occasionally deviated. Sometimes I get an itch to buy a “better” oil and run it longer. I’ve done it with TGMO. I’ve done it with Mobil EP. And actually I’m doing it with Mobil1 EP right now. But usually it’s Mobil1 on a rebate, or Pennzoil with a rebate, Super Tech, Shell RGT on rebate, autozone rebates. That stuff.
The thing is I’m curious. I’m curious if 10,000 mile intervals using something like a Mobil1 EP will do the job and allow me to still keep a vehicle 300,000 miles. That’s my goal (300,000 miles). I’ve always thought more frequent oil changes would get me there, BUT I didn’t quite get there on a Honda Accord once (289,000 miles), and I adhered to 3,000 mile intervals the whole way (conventional). By the time I hit 280,000 miles the thing was consuming oil, stalling quite a bit at traffic lights. Half the car had already been replaced (suspension, engine mounts, cooling system, steering system, exhaust). Get the picture? The 3,000 mile safe interval didn’t really do anything in helping me reach my goal of 300,000. The engine still burned oil, stalled and half the car was replaced once, twice and heading for a third. And in the end I was left with a TON OF OIL RECEIPTS. And an engine that was wiped out...sitting in a car that also was beyond wiped out. And I took care of this thing and babied it like no ones business. It didn’t matter. So, maybe extended drains might be worth a try?
I think it's highly dependent on driving cycle and luck. Over-maintaining a vehicle has never been shown to add anything to it's life. I think the use cycle has a lot to do with it. I've seen cars that went 600,000 - 1,000,000 miles on anything from 5,000 mi conventional to 15,000 mi synthetic oil changes and the predominant thing that stands out is they all put at least 50,000 mi a year on the car.
The 261,000 mi Accord V6 I have now got changes with synthetic blend 5W-20 every 7500 mi for the first 210,000 miles. For the last 7 years it got 7500 mi changes with the on sale brand of 5W-30. It uses a quart approximately every 3,000 mi but it is leaking in all the usual places and I suspect that is the primary source of the loss. I'm going to attempt to fix them all during the Timing Belt and Water Pump Service.
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The 50,000 mile a year thing is interesting...probably is indicative of highway mileage and a lot less shorter trips/stop starts. I can see that helping. Area where you live is another factor, I’m in the rust belt and that’s been half the battle for me...the brake lines, fuel lines, rotting subframes, suspension getting blasted to bits because of loads of salt and potholes. Stuff like that. Doesn’t help that I have cold starts and commutes in 10 degree weather either - just this week alone, three of my daily 60 mile commutes were in bellow 10 degree temps.
Good luck with the Honda, I’ve done a few of those timing belts...not the funnest belts to do!! Lol.
Don't remind me. Already have the parts. Just procrastinating.