In my Opinion: Thats why you should be driving without WOT at the first miles with a cold engine until the engine is fully warmed up. And the thick oil at cold start is maybe the main reason for cold start wear.
All You Guys That Think OEM Recommended 16 or 20 Weight...
- Thread starter OldCowboy
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In my Opinion: Thats why you should be driving without WOT at the first miles with a cold engine until the engine is fully warmed up. And the thick oil at cold start is maybe the main reason for cold start wear.
Rod bearing. In my opinion, it is not a coincidence. High RPM + 50 oil instead of 30: that means not enough lubrication and too much heat in the bearings.
I am maybe wrong, but.... i am better save than sorry with my engines.
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We had these one here posted numeroeus times, if i remmber correctly? Are the datas fom this blog feature doubtfull?
blog.k1technologies.com
When i compare these datas with the bearing clearances honda gives in the S2000 workshop manual, hondas reccomendation of a -30 oil is spot on. And Honda has a long heritage an expirience with high reving engines.
Bearing Clearance and Oil Viscosity Explained
The relationship between bearing clearance and oil viscosity is a delicate balance. Read on for more information.
blog.k1technologies.com
When i compare these datas with the bearing clearances honda gives in the S2000 workshop manual, hondas reccomendation of a -30 oil is spot on. And Honda has a long heritage an expirience with high reving engines.
Help me. Could not find it with google.
Cold start wear is a myth, there is more than enough MOFT from any oil at a cold start to prevent wear.
MOFT means.... ?
Minimum oil film thickness
Might he be concerned about oil starvation?
Thanks. The oil film that is left when the engien is shut down.
Sorry, but...no. I dont belive that this is enough for perfect lubricating of a engine for the first few seconds after a cold start. There is engine wear.
Some race engines and others have to be pre-lubed to build up oil pressure before you start them.
There is a guy that owns a Honda S2000 and have a absurd lot of mileage collected on the first engine. He has fitted a bypass filter AND a prelube-system with a electric pump. Every time before he start the engine he pre-lubes the engine with the electric pump to lube all bearings and to build up oil pressure. Works for him. He is member of BITOG also.
Sorry, but...no. I dont belive that this is enough for perfect lubricating of a engine for the first few seconds after a cold start. There is engine wear.
Some race engines and others have to be pre-lubed to build up oil pressure before you start them.
There is a guy that owns a Honda S2000 and have a absurd lot of mileage collected on the first engine. He has fitted a bypass filter AND a prelube-system with a electric pump. Every time before he start the engine he pre-lubes the engine with the electric pump to lube all bearings and to build up oil pressure. Works for him. He is member of BITOG also.
To sum it up:
My opinion differs from most here. I will think about what i have read here. Will see if change my mind one day.
"It is a good rule not to reject anything definitively and not to blindly believe in anything"
My opinion differs from most here. I will think about what i have read here. Will see if change my mind one day.
"It is a good rule not to reject anything definitively and not to blindly believe in anything"
And don't take blanket statements we see from time to time here as Gospel. EG: A good synthetic oil can easily go 10K miles, etc. That's one of my favorites...........To sum it up:
My opinion differs from most here. I will think about what i have read here. Will see if change my mind one day.
"It is a good rule not to reject anything definitively and not to blindly believe in anything"
We have not had any engine over 2 liters go over 60K with 0W20. And that was using Premium Oil and filters changed at factory intervals or better. I'd have to look at records but that was four down.
you racked up 157K in a 2019 in that little amount of time? what do you do.
so a thinner on the scale 5w-30 because with the choices of 0w-16 to 15w-40 id settle on that. Enough hths to be worry free in city driving. now if i highway commuted all day long id use the thinnest oil until i would start to see noticeable oil consumption instead since engine load is low and wear isn't really an issue.
I am a delivery driver subcontractor.
YarisCross drivetrain
1.5L
3cylinder version
of what I now have
@ 70mpg
and given cargo area.
I want.
well that makes sense. its very easy to get that mileage and low wear numbers because of low and steady engine load and its a hybrid so some load is taken off when accelerating which isn't a lot for your case so i would use 0w-16 as well as long as there isnt any oil consumption. On a non hybrid car that has to do harder acceleration a good 0w-20 for long term is my minimum.
But yeah i would really like the yaris hybrid or the yaris hybrid cross. i don't need my big truck most of the time and its just me commuting. i have been wanting to buy a prius and keep my old worn truck but the new prius wont come out for a while and i dont want to buy an old car. But the yaris hybrid is all new and came out and is just fine for 1-2 people so...
i want.
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They recommend 10W-30 in the Summer and 5W-40 in the Winter for a truck that you're supposed to use for work, heavy duty stuff. I would use 0/5W-40 in the Winter, depending on my location, and 15W-40 in the summer, most likely Rotella T6, as that's about the best Diesel oil you can get.Help me. Could not find it with google.
I also have data, including successive, extended OCI UOAs (the correct way of obtaining useful UOA information.)
Daily (360 days per year!) 250 freeway miles with a consistent, mild climate, adds up to it all being easy on oil.
I am Haasian.
You are correct Sir !
Christian,
with engine parts at idle seeing the shear rate of HTHS' conditions and the 9000rpm-limiters allowing for corresponding headroom – or otherwise – people are quickly running out of standardized and pre-approved language and you rightly start judging for yourself. That's fine.
The #50 or #60 here primarily remind of oils' worse temperature-rise and losses (somewhat self-compensating the viscometric misconduct of course and of their worse flowing. The 50's reluctance reaching points of lubrication is bolder than the degree to which its protective talent at ten millions per second or more would be real.
Have a quick look at the 20W-20 over 5W-20, which typically shouldn't be half the VII-bomber that a usually silly 5W-50 is compared to a 20W-50, and think of the 50's worth for yourself (they never went to our 9000rpm of course, but even so you get reminded of the idea – the 20W-20 already fights the 5W-30 and even 10W-30):
Bottomline: You and Honda are fine. And even their winter-recommendation may have reflected the sound reasoning (after all they were in a market with those SAE J300 types and such).
with engine parts at idle seeing the shear rate of HTHS' conditions and the 9000rpm-limiters allowing for corresponding headroom – or otherwise – people are quickly running out of standardized and pre-approved language and you rightly start judging for yourself. That's fine.
The #50 or #60 here primarily remind of oils' worse temperature-rise and losses (somewhat self-compensating the viscometric misconduct of course
and of their worse flowing. The 50's reluctance reaching points of lubrication is bolder than the degree to which its protective talent at ten millions per second or more would be real.Have a quick look at the 20W-20 over 5W-20, which typically shouldn't be half the VII-bomber that a usually silly 5W-50 is compared to a 20W-50, and think of the 50's worth for yourself (they never went to our 9000rpm of course, but even so you get reminded of the idea – the 20W-20 already fights the 5W-30 and even 10W-30):
Bottomline: You and Honda are fine. And even their winter-recommendation may have reflected the sound reasoning (after all they were in a market with those SAE J300 types and such).
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Sounds like the perfect vehicle for your needs.
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