Additives that work.........

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Here we go again..Like 2 school kids fighting over a toy as one user put it...

131/132 works well, ARX, kero, diesel etc. Some uers here (same on ARX forum) like it and some do not..


Who cares people. You are losing faith in any product if it turns to fighting about this and that.
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
RX by far as long as

A) You use the right oil

B) You totally ignore Franks instructions

Then you will get the result you should.

Easy as really...s


So I can do what I want on B)...10K rinse and clean...BONG
 
Try it for yourself and make your own decision. How can one persons experience with a total different application & situation be the answer to everyone's?

EXACTLY! (it can't)

So spend a few dollars, try it for yourself and make your own observations but don't go saying that a product doesn't work just because it didn't work for you when it might have worked for others. Keep an open mind!!!!!!
 
I had a feeling this thread would head down this road. I was hoping to compile a list of additives that work, not product bashing.

BTW-StevieC this is not directed at you, it is a general comment. I enjoy your contributions to this board!
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Originally Posted By: Rick20
Wow, that is alot of driving. By my calculations you must have averaged roughly 27,000 miles per year on the Lincoln and about 25,000 per year on the Merc. What are you going to do when Obama rids the country of cars we want to buy? I see the 4,000 plus pound car going away soon. Hopefully Ford will continue making a true full sized car, if they can compete with Government Motors.

If I were a guessing man, I would guess that these last 2 units saw mostly open road driving which is pretty effortless on the drive train.


Actually I lived for long time in NYC and worked in upstate New York so much of the commute was highway with some city driving mixed in..I also did allot of trips from NYC to Miami and also Kentucky.

As far as Obama planning to get rid of the V8 4K pound sedans it does not make me a happy camper at all as you all prabably know.

Even if Obama causes Ford to shut the Panther Line in 2011 their should be enough used ones around to keep me happy for years to come as those cars last for over 300K miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Rick20
Tell us about your uncles boat. I am interested. I just saw an except from the Miami Boat show last night. A company has designed a propeller that has slide in foils on the prop blades.
As the motor wears and becomes less efficient you can slidge out the original foil and slide in a less aggressive one, so that it puts less strain on the motor. It really amounts to gearing down the drive train so that the motor works less. Of coarse the down side would be less top end speed and possibly less economy. But the engine life should be extended. Instead of spending the bucks to dry dock the yaught and change propellers, a diver can change the prop foils if you will in about 10 minutes.


My uncle and Father tossed in a Chevy I6 probably the last run of that engine about 12 years ago into an off shore ~25' fishing boat hull. My uncle reworked the entire boat, re-did the floors, stringers, built a cabin etc. His fiber glass work is un-real. Also the fact that this old Chevy engine is still running the way it does is impressive. The old Chevy engine works hard and is run sometimes over 3000 rpms for hours on end. It also idles a lot when drifting, in the event he has to move it quickly. Definitely old technology but that engine never skips a beat.

My uncle wanted to try a good additive to beef up the oil a bit, add some moly, ZDDP, and and get it to cling. He's staying clear of Lucas OT and STP, he figured Schaeffers #132 and a shot of some ZDDP would be the ticket. He likes to tweak his oils. He runs a "tweaked" diesel oil in there now, I'm just not sure of the brand or grade. It appears to be working, the engine runs like a top.

What sucks is those blocks/engines are getting very hard to come by, and since the engine is salt water cooled once the water jackets rot through that will be the end of that little I-6. It could be time for small diesel or a V8 engine.

We talk a lot about start up wear and running oil that's cold as being bad for an engine. The engine in this boat is run under the most stressful conditions, at times start stop cycles are very frequent depending on what fish we'd be going for, many times the engine never got to temp even after an 8 hour day, and several weeks worth of start stop cycles if we stayed in the bay. Compression is still within specs after 12 years of abuse since my uncle built that engine.

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Just read through this thread. I have no experience with AutoRX as I don't have any really old engines I need to clean up.

I have used MMO in the gas (like it) and in the engine at the end of an interval to help clean things up. I believe there are some solvents in MMO (I believe the formulation has changed once or twice in the last decade) so I would not use it as a 'regular' additive added when I refill my sump after an oil change. Solvents are bad for wear ... period.

The only additive I have seen actually improve UOAs is Schaeffer 132. Works well with even conventional oils ... even at a half bottle per 4-5 quarts. Does this also improve economy? I'm not sure. How much longer will an engine last with this stuff added at each change? I have no idea.

But it definitely works to reduce wear.
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Are you using the #132 full strength? Some guys cut it back with Lube Control IIRC? Do/Did you use it during the winter months too?

Thanks
 
demarpaint, no I think I used half a bottle with about 4 quarts of oil. My UOA was probably the best I ever say in 3 different vehicles. Not scientific ... but I've seen the same result with another UOA here on BITOG.

I don't cocktail it with anything else.

I have used 132 in the winter ... but it is thick in the bottle when cold so that doesn't thrill me so I probably wouldn't in the future.
 
es350 exactly. I have follwed the instructions only on initial purchase more years ago than I can remember. Since then it's my way or the highway. I have been working with 8,000 kms (5,000 miles) clean/rinse but now moving to 10,000 kms (6,200 miles) on our BMW, Outback, and Mazda turbo. In the future I may move to longer intervals. Still the oil used is the critical part, no ester or PAO.
 
Thanks Bror

I felt the same way about the thickness, but heard nothing but good things about #132. I'm going to give it a try. I have a vehicle that sits a lot, and I was looking for something to coat the internals. Looks like #132 is the ticket. That and MMO in the gas.
 
The funny thing about 132 is that it is billed as a "moly additive" when in fact there is little moly in it ... not much (if any) more than Schaeffer's motor oils.

MolKule did an analysis on it and found that it contains some other beneficial compounds ... maybe an organic ester (I've forgotten). It's these other additives that seem to do the trick.

Mix half a bottle of M132 with Chevron Supreme, Texaco Havoline or Pennzoil yellow bottle and you'll have one of the lowest wear runs you can get commercially.
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Originally Posted By: sprintman
es350 exactly. I have follwed the instructions only on initial purchase more years ago than I can remember. Since then it's my way or the highway. I have been working with 8,000 kms (5,000 miles) clean/rinse but now moving to 10,000 kms (6,200 miles) on our BMW, Outback, and Mazda turbo. In the future I may move to longer intervals. Still the oil used is the critical part, no ester or PAO.


I know what you said. I was messing with you..

But on the flip side if you do that, not follow franks instructions he will get mad said I did not read them..Don't need that.
 
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
The funny thing about 132 is that it is billed as a "moly additive" when in fact there is little moly in it ... not much (if any) more than Schaeffer's motor oils.

MolKule did an analysis on it and found that it contains some other beneficial compounds ... maybe an organic ester (I've forgotten). It's these other additives that seem to do the trick.

Mix half a bottle of M132 with Chevron Supreme, Texaco Havoline or Pennzoil yellow bottle and you'll have one of the lowest wear runs you can get commercially.
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Sounds like a plan! Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
My extended regimes are being watched by the 'authorities'.


I know but..

frank stated "bitog has members not all are knowledgeable" etc

My point is if you are not doing what Frank states, I would not post it..You are added confusion to it.
 
Why did you depart from Franks instructions?
I ask because I did follow them 'to the letter' and my results were..........Well there weren't any!
 
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