99yota solara SLE, Just did Gunk Motor Flush HELP

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Actually, it doesn't look that bad. Maybe at 75% of where it should be or so. IMO, running PP or PU for several 3,000 mile intervals would work for you in 3 oil changes or so.

If you want to clean even faster, start the cleaning and then look into kreen for 2 thousand mile intervals or at the end of an oil change for 1,000.

Do you get to change your own oil?
 
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Actually, it doesn't look that bad. Maybe at 75% of where it should be or so. IMO, running PP or PU for several 3,000 mile intervals would work for you in 3 oil changes or so.

If you want to clean even faster, start the cleaning and then look into kreen for 2 thousand mile intervals or at the end of an oil change for 1,000.

Do you get to change your own oil?

Didnt used to but part of the whole deal was i wanted to check out under the valve cover before i switch to a synthetic(which one is a whole website of choices/arguments. I did the last few changes with dino and wanted to make the switch after i checked out under the cover.
 
Whatever you wind up using as your regular fill, you have a lot of options for cleaning it up more quickly; some more economic friendly than others.
 
Nothing to worry about. No cleaning needed.

Pick a quality synthetic and sane change interval and keep on driving.

Engine should have no problem with ANY flush or snake oil you choose to use.

Don't forget the other fluids like coolant, transmission, steering, brake.... and she'll run a long long time.
 
I have a friend at o'reileys here, do you think its safe to have bring the valve cover over there leaving the insides exposed like that, with the hood open( cant close the hood with the way i have moved things out of the way to take the cover off) and possibility of wind blowing bits of dirt and dust in there or is that a negative. I could also cover it with Visqueen while im gone with the cover. Thanks for any input.
 
Cover it with anything that gives a nice fit around where the cover usually sits(as long as the material in question won't tear and fall down into your engine itself). I'm assuming you are taking the valve cover to have the mating surfaces cleaned?
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Cover it with anything that gives a nice fit around where the cover usually sits(as long as the material in question won't tear and fall down into your engine itself). I'm assuming you are taking the valve cover to have the mating surfaces cleaned?

Bingo. Thanks bud always right on top of things for me. Figured id use his facilities tools and chemicals to clean(or at least try). I know t'was said that it should be safe because the engines still sealed and there's an expected small amount of dirt that can get in there when doing work. I wasn't sure if this statement took into account me being in an open driveway and having a no hood for cover. if its still safe awesome, but i wanted to make sure y'all knew the extent of the "environmental factors."
 
I just posted some photos of my 1MZ-FE:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...;gonew=1#UNREAD

Your's looks very similar - varnish but no sludge to speak of. I noticed that it was difficult to capture in a photo whithout making it look worse than it is.

Also, you definitely did things the hard way. I just pushed the rad hose and the electrical connector over a bit to get at the bolts - no need to drain coolant etc.
 
It looks like you are in very good shape under that front valve cover.
I would pick a high quality synthetic oil and use a reasonable Oil Change Interval......up to 5K miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.
This would be after a couple of short Oil Change Intervals to start off.

Unless your rear valve cover gasket is leaking, I would not remove the rear valve cover.
With your back issues......I would advise having that done for you, should you need to do it.
Same goes for the rear spark plugs.
The reason for this is, I'm in fairly good physical shape, and working on the back of the motor requires a long reach back, for an extended time.......very hard on the lower back.
Removing the upper intake manifold requires reaching ALL the way back to the back of the engine compartment to undo all those bolts that hold the support for the upper intake manifold to the rear motor mount.

I feel that your upper engine is in really good shape as far as any sludge issues.
Keep a good PCV valve on there and keep up with oil changes and you should be in great shape.
 
got a new felpro gasket set before i had the cover off. Now that the cover is off, Can anyone give any recommendations as far as cleaning the following:
1.) the top of the inside of the valve cover
2.) everthing/all the insides underneath where the valve cover was,toyota says use diesel?(or should that just be left alone)
3.) cleaning the mating surfaces on the edge of the valve cover and the edge of where it meets the engine.
4.) lastly cleaning that area of residue buildup underneath the gasket from all the pics.
and also whats the best order to clean the above things
Im sorry for asking for so much step by step help, but id rather ask and be considered an idiot than just go and try to tackle something with no knowledge and be proven an idiot.I'm sure that theres one cleaner or chemical thats probably perfect for all of these(simple green), but im guessing that the tools i should use will vary with which area im cleaning. If anyone can give me any suggestions so i can put together a little mini-cleaning guide for everything before i install the new gasket and replace the cover, it would help me out a whole lot. Thanks for everyones support.
 
I used a rag soaked with Berryman's B-12 Chemtool.
I did NOT spray it onto the motor, just onto the rag.
That is all I needed to clean up the mating surfaces on the valve cover and head to create a clean surface for the gasket.
Felpro says not to use any sealant with their gaskets (should say so on the box or on the instructions that came with the gasket).
The Berryman's will evaporate away.

I did the same for wiping around in the valve train area.
I did not get carried away about reaching every spot.

Do NOT push on the spark plug tubes as they are sealed into the head.
You don't want to cause any leaks there.

Also, resist the temptation to scrape the surfaces.
Scraping with any metal tool will leave small scratches in the alluminum, which leaves a path for leakage.


Also, I poured some oil over the camshaft before putting the valve cover back into place.
This replaced the oil that I wiped off with the rag.
Does not take much oil.....just enough to have the cam lobes and bearing locations wet with oil.

As I mentioned, your valve train area looks pretty good......so I would not be concerned about more than having a clean surface to have the valve cover gasket seat onto.
The rest is just cosmetic.....and out of view.
A reasonable oil change interval with a high quality synthetic oil, and making sure that the PCV system is working will clean it up some more.
 
^Good post, nice points and basic method.

...but spark plug tubes...he removed them, so, uh???
27.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Good post, nice points and basic method.

...but spark plug tubes...he removed them, so, uh???
27.gif


Well Sorry if i get the proper terms mixed up, I removed the spark plug tube(rubber)but not the cylinder/tube thats actually welded to the engine that the tube(rubber) gets inserted into....
 
Okay, I figured but wanted to be sure. Didn't mean to put you on the spot. So, have you decided what you're going to do moving forward?
 
I saw them still in place in your pictures, so I knew what you intended.
I saw the tar on the sides of them, and that required a bit more rubbing to remove, kind of like the underside of the valve covers.
The deposits elsewhere wiped right off.
You would be better off leaving the spark plug tubes alone then breaking the seal they have into the head, as that could cause oil leakage into the spark plug well......messy.

Your pictures show that you are in great shape up top, under the valve covers.
I am leaning toward some shorter oil change intervals the next few oil changes, using a high quality synthetic oil and a oversized oil filter, like I am using.
Actually, the longer filter is easier to get on/off because you don't have to reach in under the exhaust manifold so far.
If you are not tight on cash, I am thinking that the Bosch Distance Plus filter (D3422)$10.72 plus shipping from Rockauto and $13.49 at Advance Auto Parts... might be a good choice, with the Fram Extended Guard (XG3600)$7.10 plus shipping from Rockauto, under $10 at Walmart a 2nd choice.
These 2 filters have a synthetic media that has a higher dirt holding capacity than most other filters.
They both seemed to do well in river_rat's "from the bench" testing.
These 2 stand out to me as high dirt holding, good filtration, good flow, rugged construction, and easy to find.
However, there are other good choices as well.....

If we got kicked out of here for mis-wording, I would have been gone a LONG time ago
 
Originally Posted By: wiswind
I saw them still in place in your pictures, so I knew what you intended.
I saw the tar on the sides of them, and that required a bit more rubbing to remove, kind of like the underside of the valve covers.
The deposits elsewhere wiped right off.
You would be better off leaving the spark plug tubes alone then breaking the seal they have into the head, as that could cause oil leakage into the spark plug well......messy.

Your pictures show that you are in great shape up top, under the valve covers.
I am leaning toward some shorter oil change intervals the next few oil changes, using a high quality synthetic oil and a oversized oil filter, like I am using.
Actually, the longer filter is easier to get on/off because you don't have to reach in under the exhaust manifold so far.
If you are not tight on cash, I am thinking that the Bosch Distance Plus filter (D3422)$10.72 plus shipping from Rockauto and $13.49 at Advance Auto Parts... might be a good choice, with the Fram Extended Guard (XG3600)$7.10 plus shipping from Rockauto, a 2nd choice.
These 2 filters have a synthetic media that has a higher dirt holding capacity than most other filters.
They both seemed to do well in river_rat's "from the bench" testing.

Hey itslimjim, still deciding the best route unfortunately, no worries id rather be on the spot. Thanks wiswind, for oil filter i dont care the price whatevers best, sounds like the Bosch is what i should do. I dont particularly like fram, i am not sure why, even though ive used it many times in the past. Yea im gonna need to scrub hat a little better around the cylinders, being oh so careful not to put pressure on them. I dont know im in a mental rut of the best plan of attack on this. That would most likely be because ive never done it. We'll see, ill update if i have an epiphany, otherwise im just following all yall's advice.
 
Even if you touched nothing, that is to do not real cleaning yourself; doing short intervals with cleanup in mind(dictating a few things in oil selection, additive etc), you will have a cleaner engine overall in about 10K miles. How much? Not sure, I'd imagine at least 50% of the way to clean clean, from where it is now.
 
Yea, regardless of the route i take for cleaning now, i am deffinately going to use that longer filter(probably the Bosch)and a good synthetic for really frequent intervals. picking the synthetics a whole 'nother mess. I was originally thinking penzoil ultra. Then royal purple but that seems to be just a name brand gimmick to me, i've just heard as many negative as positive things about it. So thinking maybe redline or amsoil 5w-30 as is called for or maybe a 0-w30. I was happy with going to penzoil ultra, but then thought maybe a true class IV would be better. One thing im unclear on, from what i've read it seems theres no doubt in a class IV's superior ability to keep an engine clean by PREVENTING deposits,sludge,etc. But i've also seen that some say that a good class III based oil can actually be better than a class IV for cleaning up "grime" thats already there, not as good as preventing it maybe, but possibly better at cleaning up [censored] thats already there?? I do not know, theres so many opinions, if anyone has any suggestions one way or the other, it definately cant hurt. Thanks again.
 
I'd recommend something like Amsoil after you clean up. IMO, PU will clean it up faster and Amsoil will keep you there within reason.

ADDED: But, if you choose to stick to 3,000 intervals after the change. I'd personally just recommend Mobil1 AFE 0w-30. If you go 5,000 perhaps Amsoil's XL line.
 
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