I have been a member of bitog and lurker for a few months now but didn't really have anything to post just followed what you guys were discussing. I have learned a bunch about oil and filters and whatever. Now a very close co-worker of mine and good friend just purchased a '78 Pontiac TA with the 220 hp 400cu engine. History of the care of the car is either unknown or well what the last owner said without any documentation. 110k original miles with routine oil changes no other fluids changed just maintained. Need some advice on what oil to use and what suggestions to do with auto trans fluid, differential lube, brake fluid etc.
78 Pontiac TransAm
- Thread starter cmstpprr
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Id recommend http://specialtyformulations.com/ except that half their more details pages dont work.
Happy Motoring to you,
Bugshu
Happy Motoring to you,
Bugshu
If the car don't smoke a good 10W30 should work well. A 15W40 might be a good choice if the motor is loose. Be carefull with the transmission. I have had transmissions high mileage cars go out after a fluid change. You might take it in steps, like change the filter and top it up, drive it for a while then change the fluid and filter again. I don't recommend on of those pump things used at the quicky lube.
110K and the trans fluid and rearend lube were never changed?
That's pretty scary on a performance car that's probably been beat on in the past 25 plus years. Dump the rearend lube and make sure a posi additive (GM sells it) gets put back in it or the posi differential will chatter and eventually destroy itself without it. A quality 80W90 gear oil and the GM posi additive will be fine. The trans will probably need to be "flushed" to make sure all of the old fluid gets out. Best way to do that is to change the fluid and filter in stages as previously mentioned. Change the fluid and filter. Drive it around for 500 miles or so, dump the fluid only, drive it for another 500 miles and change both the fluid and filter then call it good for 15K-30K depending on how hard your buddy drives it. Any high quality Dexron (make sure you get the right type) will work... the type required should be stamped on the tranny dipstick or in the owner's manual if it's still around. Any parts store tranny filter will be fine. As for engine oil, anything from a 10W30 to a 15W40 will be fine, I'd personally go with a HD 15W40 like Delvac 1300 Super and a high quality filter like a Purolator Pure One or even the Purolator Premium Plus.
What color combo is the T/A? I'm a big fan of the later model 2nd gen F-bodies.....I have a black/orange/red on black 77 Z28 that's been built up with a big block, etc and I used to own a white/orange/red on black 77 Z28 that was fully loaded and 99% original with only 38K on it-both are/were 4spds as well.
[ March 02, 2005, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: 99 ]
What color combo is the T/A? I'm a big fan of the later model 2nd gen F-bodies.....I have a black/orange/red on black 77 Z28 that's been built up with a big block, etc and I used to own a white/orange/red on black 77 Z28 that was fully loaded and 99% original with only 38K on it-both are/were 4spds as well.
[ March 02, 2005, 02:40 PM: Message edited by: 99 ]
I wouldn't change the trans fluid after 110K miles.
You may experience trans shift slipping because the new fluid will clean the clutches and cause a problem.
It happened to me on a car with 85K miles.
Trans fluid should be changed every 24-30K miles or not at all IMHO.
You may experience trans shift slipping because the new fluid will clean the clutches and cause a problem.
It happened to me on a car with 85K miles.
Trans fluid should be changed every 24-30K miles or not at all IMHO.
99 Thanks for the advice. I'm aso considering convincing him to tray ana ARX treatment.
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schmoe, don't remember if the valve covers are chromed or not. $5,500 no bondo but the doors sag and need new skins and there is some rust on the rear where the exhaust dumps, go figure....... Well it's a very drivable project car. This is from the land of winter salt ya know.
If it's a 400ci, it's a Pontiac; a 403ci, then it's an Olds.
Also, check the shaker scoop. If it reads 6.6 T/A it's most likely the Pontiac V8. If it reads 6.6 Liter, it's the 403 Olds. I say most likely because the scoop might not be the stock one.
Is a long interval fluid change as risky on a TH350 or TH400 as newer, modern transmissions? These older transmission are pretty stout, IIRC.
Also, check the shaker scoop. If it reads 6.6 T/A it's most likely the Pontiac V8. If it reads 6.6 Liter, it's the 403 Olds. I say most likely because the scoop might not be the stock one.
Is a long interval fluid change as risky on a TH350 or TH400 as newer, modern transmissions? These older transmission are pretty stout, IIRC.
Ahh, the 78 Trans Am! I had one back in 1983. It had the dreaded saggy doors and the driver seat would sag to the right. It also had a leaching of sealent from the rear interior panels. It had the 400 in it with the hood scoop that would shake when I opened it up. It was a blue color with t-tops. Fun vehicle, but lots of maintenance.
I would go for a thicker 10w40 or 5w40. Stick with dino like Havoline, Castrol or Chevron Supreme. Leave the tranny alone since its never been changed.
I would go for a thicker 10w40 or 5w40. Stick with dino like Havoline, Castrol or Chevron Supreme. Leave the tranny alone since its never been changed.
What color combo is the T/A? I'm a big fan of the later model 2nd gen F-bodies.....I have a black/orange/red on black 77 Z28 that's been built up with a big block, etc and I used to own a white/orange/red on black 77 Z28 that was fully loaded and 99% original with only 38K on it-both are/were 4spds as well.
Hey! I've got a '77 Type LT. Are you a member of Nastyz28.com also?
Hey! I've got a '77 Type LT. Are you a member of Nastyz28.com also?
Another common problem on the TA's are fender wells and rocker panels. That's where they are prone to rust the most.
It's funny, but that 400 or 403 is pumping out 220 hp, in 1978. Bring it full circle to 2005, and a V6 is roughly pumping out the same horses or even more. Technology...got to love it.
It's funny, but that 400 or 403 is pumping out 220 hp, in 1978. Bring it full circle to 2005, and a V6 is roughly pumping out the same horses or even more. Technology...got to love it.
Maybe less peak horsepower but a lot of power everywhere. And they have loads of torque!
Head west! The desert states have tons of them. The interiors, dashes, door/window/t-top weatherstripping and all of the decals are usually trashed, but the bodies are solid.
[ March 03, 2005, 09:11 PM: Message edited by: 99 ]
Try popping a 220 HP 3.0L V6 - 3.5L V6 into the TA, which weighs about 3800 lbs and see how well it does. Probably not very well, Torque is what moves you. I have a 1984 Oldsmobile 98 with a stock 79 olds 350 in it, the car is fully loaded power everything weighs well over 4200 lbs and runs 15.69 @ 89 mph at the drag strip. My stock 1979 350 rocket is rated at 160 HP and 275 foot pounds of torque, low numbers made the insurance companies happy.
The Feds did it with their infamous BS emissions regulations. Anyone remember those pellet catalytic converters that choked off the exhaust and the super lazy advance curves? By the way, 220 horse was HUGE in the late 70s and amazing seeing these things were so compromised. 220 was real good all things considered. Those 400/4spd T/As were some of the quickest cars you could buy back then. They were known to embarass Vettes too. Put a modern LS1/6 6spd in one with some suspension tweaks and they'll hang with most any modern day Detroit muscle......almost 30 years later.
Also check the trunk and floor pan/subframe areas for rust. The rear window corners like to rust too along with the bottom of the doors. The only body parts on this generation of cars that I haven't seen all rusted out are the hoods, trunk lids and roofs.
[ March 03, 2005, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: 99 ]
No, never heard of it until now! I'll check it out.
WOW, guys I was just looking for some advice as to fluids to relay to my friend. He is a very compatent mechanic (our maintenence supervisor at work) just does not know the benefits of modern oils and other fluids. The car looks real pretty but is 27 years old and is in pretty nice shape considering it has lived in Wisconsin all its life. The price was right and it needs some TLC. He and I are having a bunch of fun with your comments but lets get back to oil and tranny fluid etc.
99.....are they selling them out there? Is there an online auction or something? Man, I would be willing to pay a fair price for a undamaged body and engine. I realize at this number of years, the interior will be pretty trashed, but that can be fixed.
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