Stop! You're killing me!This is what’s in my 68 Firebird.
Stop! You're killing me!This is what’s in my 68 Firebird.
Chevy did have some soft cams around that time, Don't know if Pontiac had it too.It's the flat tappet camshafts, for you youngsters. Luckily base engines have mild valve spring pressures. Generally these cars are not driven that much.
We used to use Shell Rotella T but there are better oils available now. Even a simple 10w30 with a dose of HDDP will work, if you wanna play chemist. I would just use an oil designed for this purpose; keep it simple.
As far as I know it was just Chevy around 78-83. Oldsmobile and Pontiac didn't have that problem. I was just born in 83 but I started with all my automotive research back in the early 90s.Chevy did have some soft cams around that time, Don't know if Pontiac had it too.
My 1977 Malibu Classic 305 had one replaced in 1980.As far as I know it was just Chevy around 78-83. Oldsmobile and Pontiac didn't have that problem. I was just born in 83 but I started with all my automotive research back in the early 90s.
My friend did find spalling/pitting on the camshaft of both the 79 olds 350 (which he swapped with a mild lunati camshaft years ago) and his 72 351 Cleveland which he rebuilt completely but those weren't wear as much as damage from sitting for years with old oil in them and some moisture probably.
My 76 olds still has the original one in it so hopefully no spalling or wear.
What's interesting is that the conventional 10W-40s I've seen are more expensive in many instances than semi or full synthetics. Here are some Walmart and Amazon prices:I'd run the least expensive XW-40 conventional I could find.
I had no idea 10w40 conventional was crazy expensive now. Just wow! I guess there's just no demand in the market for it anymore, so supply and demand dictates a much higher cost in single quarts especially.It's always a good idea to run the least expensive conventional oil. What's interesting is that the conventional 10W-40s I've seen are more expensive in many instances than semi or full synthetics. Here are some Walmart and Amazon prices:
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I had no idea 10w40 conventional was crazy expensive now. Just wow! I guess there's just no demand in the market for it anymore, so supply and demand dictates a much higher cost in single quarts especially.It can still be found for a somewhat decent price in 5 qt jugs. BUT, if I were OP and I could get synthetic Xw40 cheaper, I'd run synthetic.
I should say 77. Seems like it might have been a build date split. I know someone who still drives a 77 impala his dad bought new with 350k miles on the original camshaft and I've heard of several others but also a couple that did fail.My 1977 Malibu Classic 305 had one replaced in 1980.
I've heard Pontiac's were pretty reliable, just like Oldsmobiles. Buick not so much. Chevy it depends on the year if they had bad cams or crack prone heads.Those 8:1 compression 400s were pretty low power for their displacement, for sure. The pre-1971 engines were less detuned. My first car was a 72 Catalina with the post-71 400. Used Castrol 10W-40 and changed it every 3K - it was the default OCI of the 80s. That engine was bulletproof. Sold the car in 1990 with 212,000 miles on it; original engine and transmission. It had numerous rusted out areas and various water leaks every time it rained. I replaced the points distributor with an HEI from a 75 Pontiac and replaced the 2 barrel Rochester carb with a four barrel Holly Q-Jet bolt on replacement. It actually improved the fuel economy to a whopping 16mpg on the highway.
Mine ran hot all the time in the summer. If I got stuck in traffic I sometimes had to turn off the AC. This was even after replacing the three-row radiator with a four-row and installing a flex fan. If I had kept the car, the next step was to install an electric fan on the condenser to work with the belt driven fan (like Mercedes of that vintage used to do).I've heard Pontiac's were pretty reliable, just like Oldsmobiles. Buick not so much. Chevy it depends on the year if they had bad cams or crack prone heads.
Mine did at one point and I had to flush like 8 gallons of water through the cooling system with the machine at work and then it was okay....but after I tried to convert it back to clutch fan the shroud had to be cut it fit the bigger rad and nothing helped until I converted it back to dual electric fans and now it stays cool no problem.Mine ran hot all the time in the summer. If I got stuck in traffic I sometimes had to turn off the AC. This was even after replacing the three-row radiator with a four-row and installing a flex fan. If I had kept the car, the next step was to install an electric fan on the condenser to work with the belt driven fan (like Mercedes of that vintage used to do).