5w30, necessary?

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Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: jupiterdagger
For the record, I just have a 2006 Mustang V6 300HP right now but the CTS-V is next in line for my next big purchase.


What have you done to your 2006 Mustang V-6 to get 300 hp out of it?

It must be a future 300 hp, just like his future CTS-V.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Since most owners of high performance cars are (I hate to say) poseurs that drive no faster than you're typical Prius owner, they don't need to run a heavy oil and the lubrication demands of the engine would be better met in running a lighter than spec' oil.


I resemble that remark. So, you're saying that when I'm taking my G on the highway on my leisurely 55 mph jaunts, my PYB is sufficient, and I don't need some ultra-expensive $20/litre synthetic 40 weight?
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Originally Posted By: jupiterdagger
For the record, I just have a 2006 Mustang V6 300HP right now but the CTS-V is next in line for my next big purchase.


What have you done to your 2006 Mustang V-6 to get 300 hp out of it?

It must be a future 300 hp, just like his future CTS-V.


This whole thread is likely taking place in the future...
 
From an 06 V6 'stang to a CTS-V.... thats a hellof a leap there!

Great post cat! I see that so many times locally.... new Z06 vettes running around with blue hairs driving at 20mph UNDER the speed limit... what a waste!
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
jupiterdagger said:
I would stay away from most 0W-20s (especially your 'faves' the TOY/Idemitsu variety), NO MATTER WHAT his oil pressure/temp gauges say. The stock boost on that engine is fairly high, as is the stock WOT enrichment programming.
The TOY stuff might be OK if he lived inside the Artic Circle during winter time, but otherwise, I would avoid it like the plague in THAT powerplant.
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An engine no matter how powerful doesn't know what grade of oil is in the sump just what the operational viscosity is at any given moment. That's why you can run a 0W-5 qualifying oil in a NASCAR engine flat out for a few laps as long as the oil temp's don't exceed say 180F.
An oil pressure gauge is effectively an onboard viscometer.
GM V8s can run safely with OP in the low 40 psi range without issue at high rev's consiquently 50 psi is a very conservative lower limit which translates into a fairly viscous oil.
Since street driving so under stresses a high performance engine it is very easy to run a light oil as the oil temp's usually stay very low.
Since most owners of high performance cars are (I hate to say) poseurs that drive no faster than you're typical Prius owner, they don't need to run a heavy oil and the lubrication demands of the engine would be better met in running a lighter than spec' oil.
OP is how you determine what the correct oil viscosity is for any application.


By your OWN admission, the TOY juice (don't know about the Honduh stuff) shears down to ~ a 2.2(?) or so HTHS VERY quickly, which could be dangerous to that engine even if he (or anyone else) drives it like a 95 year old granny in her Avalon, since NO ONE changes it out after < 10 miles as the teams do with "qualifying oil" (which I'm not sure of the rules, but might actually be in special "qualifying" engines
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).

It is NOT a Prius hamster wheel motor!
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Have you personally ever owned, and/or raced an LSx series engine?
 
The original Nippon Oil made Toyota 0W-20 did shear about 10% although the EOM made version has shown less shear; as little as 4% after 10,000 miles.
But shear or viscosity loss due to fuel dilution doesn't really matter if you have an OP gauge since you'll know as it happens due to the corresponding reduction in OP.
 
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