5W30, 4000 miles, 3.5L Sienna

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I definitely want to take my own sample next time. Do you recommend taking from the drain plug or sucking out the dipstick tube?
 
Originally Posted By: Bill_Jay
I definitely want to take my own sample next time. Do you recommend taking from the drain plug or sucking out the dipstick tube?

Either way is okay as long as the sample is taken after a good drive on highway.
 
Did anyone ever have a problem with that plastic tube melting in the dipstick tube??
 
The reason I ask.... the polyethylene tubing at Lowe's has a max operating temp of 120 F.
 
I may have found the source of the high moly readings in my used oil sample. I found online that the Lexus 3.5L 2GR-FSE uses moly-coated piston skirts to reduce friction. Since the Toyota 2GR-FE is a close cousin of that engine, I assume it also uses moly-coated pistons.

If piston slap is the sound of pistons knocking against the cylinder walls until they warm up, then its logical that some of that moly coating would wear off each day and end up in the oil. Its also logical that my knock is getting worse as more and more of that friction-reducing coating is wearing off.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill_Jay
I may have found the source of the high moly readings in my used oil sample. I found online that the Lexus 3.5L 2GR-FSE uses moly-coated piston skirts to reduce friction. Since the Toyota 2GR-FE is a close cousin of that engine, I assume it also uses moly-coated pistons.

If piston slap is the sound of pistons knocking against the cylinder walls until they warm up, then its logical that some of that moly coating would wear off each day and end up in the oil. Its also logical that my knock is getting worse as more and more of that friction-reducing coating is wearing off.



^sounds like you're screwed there Bill... or is it Jay?
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Originally Posted By: Bill_Jay
I may have found the source of the high moly readings in my used oil sample. I found online that the Lexus 3.5L 2GR-FSE uses moly-coated piston skirts to reduce friction. Since the Toyota 2GR-FE is a close cousin of that engine, I assume it also uses moly-coated pistons.

If piston slap is the sound of pistons knocking against the cylinder walls until they warm up, then its logical that some of that moly coating would wear off each day and end up in the oil. Its also logical that my knock is getting worse as more and more of that friction-reducing coating is wearing off.



If the moly really was coming from the [iston knocking around in the cylinder THAT much, your other wear metals, especially iron, would be sky-high.

Stop worrying. The moly is an oil additive, and your engine is fine!
 
I do have an 03 4runner, it makes noise at start up and noise is still there even it's warm. BUT not loud as before when i used mobil clean 5000. I also did read few people had great result switching to 5w40 instead of 5w30 but i haven't try yet.

If your car is knocking, it will knock either it's cold or warm. Best way to check detonation at home is inspect your plugs or take it to shop to get compression/leak down test. Like everyone said, you shouldn't worry about it. But i do feel you tho.

Do you still have a warranty? If you do, let other dealer inspect your car as well.

also you can join toyota forum and ask other yota owners.
 
I just got an email from my Service Manager. Their version of Toyota Genuine Motor Oil is PRIMEPLUS. I never heard of it and I'll never find out if its high moly or not.
 
Originally Posted By: hypervish
All seems good, from what you posted so far... don't worry it's a Toyota!


Thats what I used to say. Then the CEL came on in both of mine in the same week. One was emissions related, the other required the motor being pulled and the top end rebuilt. A 3.5L 2007 Sienna I might add.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill_Jay
umDummy...Been there, done that. After a year of Toyota techs and service managers saying "its normal, they all do that", they finally decided its piston slap.

From other forums, it seems like the vvt-i clatter is a constant. It doesn't go away after the engine warms up. Besides, wouldn't that cam/vvt-i show up in my oil analysis? If you know otherwise, I'd like to hear more.


Mine clattered and I considered it normal. After they rebuilt the top end it was quiet as a whisper. So no, the valve train isn't supposed to clatter.
 
My service manager called and offered me an 8 year/125K mile platinum warranty. Of course I accepted, but I will continue to pursue the source of the clatter.
 
Nice of them to provide an extended warranty. Keep things documented, like outside temp, how long it takes for the piston slap to go away while the engine warms up. Use a plotter to track. If you can show over a period of time (maybe years so just consider it a hobby) that the issue is getting progressively worse you may have a case before the extended warranty is up to get new pistons or block. Either way, keep track.

My H4 has mild piston slap when it drops below freezing. Goes away pretty quick and UOAs have been excellent.
 
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