5w-20 vs 0w-20

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Is there any noticeable difference between using 0w-20 and 5w-20 in a 2006 Mazda 6 3.0 V6? Autozone is running 0w-20 on sale at $3.99/qt here locally. I am thinking of using 0w-20 for this winter. Will there be any problems/concerns with switching to 0w-20 in the colder temps?
 
A quick answer is that you're most likely better off with 0W20 in all temps, since it's going to flow better at start-up and until the oil gets up to operating temps. The operating viscosity of most 0W20's is similar to most 5W20's, though obviously it depends on the particular oil in question.

The long winded answer is "it may depend on how they reach the 0W20 spread". If it's through the use of VII's instead of better base oils, the oil may shear more after use. That said, I haven't really seen that to be the case in any of the 0W20 UOA's on this site.

I have a similar engine (3.0 Duratec, without the VVT though), and I think I'm going to stick with 0W20. It seems to get up to operating temps more quickly, fast idle kicks off faster and it's quieter at start-up.
 
The minimum base oil quality for a 0w-20 is higher than for a 5w-20. You can't just toss in more VIIs because xw-20s have volatility issues as they are.

So, if you buy a 0w-20, you're more likely to get a better base oil.
 
I've been using M1 0w20 for a while in my 04' Mazda6s, and the Duratec seems to love that thin oil. Car runs smoother and quieter with it. I'm going to be trying PU 5w20 on my next oil change, cause I snagged the under $20 6 qts deal on Amazon last month, so I couldn't resist. I'll see how well that oil does in my 6.
 
Like with all oil you can't really generalize, it's best to look at the PDS for the oils in question.
Some 0W-20's are heavier at some start-up temp's and operating temp's than some 5W-20's. For example, Castrol Edge is a light 5W-20, considerably lighter than Amsoil 0W-20 at temp's down to at least -15C. So check the PDS of the oil if you want to know what you're buying.
 
The one advantage of 5W20 is it's available in dino for less money. But if you're buying PP or M1 or Edge ... then 0W20 is better if it is similarly priced.
 
Autozone had a shelf full of green cap M1 0w-20 quarts for $3.99/each, it was the only M1 oil that cheap - the guy there advised me that the price should be the same at all autozones. Thanks for all the comments - I bought 6 quarts of the 0w-20 with a K&N filter and look forward to trying it out.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
The minimum base oil quality for a 0w-20 is higher than for a 5w-20. You can't just toss in more VIIs because xw-20s have volatility issues as they are.

So, if you buy a 0w-20, you're more likely to get a better base oil.


I agree with you completely, but I didn't want to make blanket statements either, since I'm not familiar with all of the 0W20's out there. For instance, I could potentially see brand X's 5W20 being of higher quality than brand Y's 0W20. I does seem though when looking through various company's product lines, when comparing within those lines the 0W20 seem to be of higher quality than the 5W20 variant.
 
I'll find out soon. I've been using M1 5-20EP for a year now in both Duratechs with very good results.(Typical of M1 oils). Next week I will be changing to M1 0-20 in the Fusion, and will run it for 10K as usual.
 
Originally Posted By: carguy996
Is there any noticeable difference between using 0w-20 and 5w-20 in a 2006 Mazda 6 3.0 V6?


Yes. The 0W-20 probably costs more.

Originally Posted By: carguy996
Will there be any problems/concerns with switching to 0w-20 in the colder temps?


No.
 
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