Holy moly! Mngopher wasn't kidding when he said the new Havoline 5w-20 formula is dark. I did the first oil change on my '04 Mazda 6i today (1200 miles) and filled with Havoline 5w-20 (that I had purchased intitially for my F150)and I had to do a double check to make sure the bottles were all sealed. Man is that stuff dark! I kind of feel cheeted by not seeing that fresh golden blonde oil on the dipstick.
I was going to sample te factory fill and send it in but I passed. I'll sample this fill when I change it in 2000 miles just to start to establish a baseline. I want to get 2 changes done before I bring her in for the first 5,000 scheduled service.
5w-20 black coffee
- Thread starter mikep
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For all other Mazda6 UOA's...
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=36
Any particluar reason you went with havoline when the motorcraft semi-syn is a proven oil?
quote:1. I like that Havoline has a lot of moly. 2. I had excellent UOA results using Chevron Supreme 5w-30 in my 2001 F150 so I wanted to stick with the Chevron/Havolne family for the 5w-20. 3.Everyone's using Motocraft 5w-20
Originally posted by crossbow: For all other Mazda6 UOA's... http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=36 Any particluar reason you went with havoline when the motorcraft semi-syn is a proven oil?
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Well make sure to post a UOA and I'll add it to the list . Any UOA is a good UOA .
. Any UOA is a good UOA .
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Is the Havoline a blend like the Motorcraft?![[I dont know]](/forums/graemlins/dunno.gif)
.quote:You always were a "long haired rebel"
Originally posted by mikep: 3.Everyone's using Motocraft 5w-20
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. I guess the additive package and possibly base oils are different than their 5W-30 oil. This is most likely needed to meet the more stingent performance requirements of Ford spec'd 5W-20 oil versus just meeting ILSAC GF-3, SL requirements. Ironically the Motorcraft 5W-20 oil is very light colored.
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How was it changing the oil filter cartridge versus a spin on oil filter?
WhimseyThey are having so much trouble with the cartiage filters, that mazda's going to "ok" a spin-on filter conversion soon.
This should make most 6i owners happy, as the PF24 (fram Xref) filters are hella cheaper then the 10-12 dollar dealer pack filters.
The adapter is part # L301-14-310 and a required gasket for its installation is # LF01-14-342.
I don't believe mazda has ok'd its swappin yet (and still allowed full warranty coverage), but their supposed to soon.
quote:Thanks for the info. I can't wait to convert. Is this on a TSB?
Originally posted by crossbow: They are having so much trouble with the cartiage filters, that mazda's going to "ok" a spin-on filter conversion soon. This should make most 6i owners happy, as the PF24 (fram Xref) filters are hella cheaper then the 10-12 dollar dealer pack filters. The adapter is part # L301-14-310 and a required gasket for its installation is # LF01-14-342. I don't believe mazda has ok'd its swappin yet (and still allowed full warranty coverage), but their supposed to soon.
I believe its an MRI right now. I'll send you a pm or do a short post in the oil filters section when its been moved to a more offical status.
(MRI = Mazda Repair Info, which isn't public, nor does it have to be reported to edmonds/etc.)
Glad I'm not the only one who did a double take when I poured the Havoline 5w20 the first time! The Chevron 5w20 is the same way, and they even went so far as to send a bulliten to their distributors that the oil was correct and not a "goof"!
As for why use Havoline instead of Motorcraft: I get Havoline for 1.59 a quart, Motorcraft is cheapest at Wal-Mart for 1.82 a qt these days. Besides, Havoline and Chevron seem to hold their own
quote:That filter setup is a royal PITA and pretty darn pricey! Nearly $15.00 between the filter element, small O-ring and large O-ring/gasket. Crossbow....if Mazda O.K.s a spin on conversion I'll be the first one at my dealer waiting in line!
Originally posted by Whimsey:
When you change that filter do you have to unscrew that small silver plug on the bottom of the filter canister? I drained the pan first, then removed that small plug under the filter canister, then unscrewed the canister assembly. Naturally I replaced both the small O-ring from that little plug as well as the larger O-ring on the canister. Just wondering if I didn't have to bother with that silver plug?quote:
Originally posted by crossbow: Mikep, http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=32&Itemid=35 and http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=36
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