40wt oil in a 1.8L Toyota engine

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quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
.....and 20W50 GTX in the warm months.

Yup, 20w50 has been in my 1979 MB280S original engine for the last 300,000km with no oil burning issues. It's always had regular oil changes and looks like it could go on forever. Only problem is the gaskets dont last so long and it's leaking all over the engine.
 
JohnBrowning said

quote:

5W30 and 0w30 are soloutions looking for a problem. Short of artic conditions these oils do not protect any better then their 10W30 counter parts. Short of artic temps they are not going to flow that much faster then 10W30. They tend not to be as stable and consistent as their 10W30 counter parts of the same chemistry. No one has run 10W30 M1 or Amsoil then run the same brand of oil in 5W30 with the same chemistry and shown any advantage under identical conditions.

That is so true. Light weight oils are for sewing machines.

Dave
 
quote:

Originally posted by DavoNF:
JohnBrowning said

quote:

5W30 and 0w30 are soloutions looking for a problem. Short of artic conditions these oils do not protect any better then their 10W30 counter parts. Short of artic temps they are not going to flow that much faster then 10W30. They tend not to be as stable and consistent as their 10W30 counter parts of the same chemistry. No one has run 10W30 M1 or Amsoil then run the same brand of oil in 5W30 with the same chemistry and shown any advantage under identical conditions.

That is so true. Light weight oils are for sewing machines.

Dave


0w30 Syntec from Germany is considerably more shear stable than the 5w30 or even the 10w30 Syntec built in the US! Different chemistries though.
 
Your Ohio climate doesn't have extremes of either hot or cold. Surely the Amsoil -30 would do the job even running hard on a hot day. At least in the winter I would use the recommended 5W-. I think the manufacturers are looking at being able to have better start up protection with the better quality 5W's available now. Unless you are doing a lot of short trip stuff, the XW isn't going to affect mileage that much. If you driving mix includes very many short trips, I would definitely stick to the 5W- all year.

I ran 5W-30 Pennzoil dino in my 92 Grand Am HO Quad 4 on 3 month OCI. After 11 years, and 180K, I had good oil pressure and no engine noise. Its driving pattern tended to be lots of short trips around town, with 1000 mile weekends now and then. Much of my driving is on 2 lane roads where I made good use of the 5 speed. My son was caught doing 55 a few hundred feet after a right on red. The cop spoke sharply to his mother and let him go.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ken4:

quote:

Originally posted by mkosem:
This engine warms up very quickly(it's japanese) so the only real thing I'm concerned with is the warm viscosity.

For my jap engine, the water temp warms up in 3~4mins, but the oil temp takes 20~25mins to fully warm up to normal operating temp, even in my kind of climate. Therefore full benefits of heavier viscosity oils are only realised if your drives are typically longer than 30mins.


I live in the country. Anywhere that I go is a minimum of 30 minutes away, most places being 45+

But I guess I'll stick with 30wt

--Matt
 
John, thanx for your post's insight...and I thought I was the only one dissing 30 weights.

Granted, not all 30 weights are created equal as Patman was saying re: A3 GC 0-30. However, I can attest to problems with my engine using A3 5-30 for ~60k mi. at 9-10k mi. (computer determined) intervals...and so this is why I won't even try the GC.

I agree...30 weights are for sewing machines...or leased cars
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quote:

Originally posted by DavoNF:
mkosem,

I don't think you can call a 5W-30 a "30wt" oil. I would call it a 5wt with thickeners.


Dave


I'd call it a 30wt with thinners.

--Matt
 
I read your original question as looking at straight weight 40..... I run Delo 15W40 in my Toyotas, both diesel and gasoline engines.
 
I read through the entire thread, I don't think anybody mentioned to look in the owners manual. Who would know better than the manufacturer what weight oil would work better with the bearing clearances etc. the engine was designed for? Some experts call the owners manual the car"s bible. It should give recommendations for different (outside) temperature ranges. I personally am not of the belief that thicker is necessarily better. Just my opinion.

[ December 22, 2003, 02:57 AM: Message edited by: highmiles ]
 
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