3.5 EcoBoost under valve covers/front cover

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Not many external engine components have chains …
I know lol I was referring too like internal water pumps and stuff that are timing chain driven that’s when the chain becomes a problem. When it’s just a regular engine with a chain and the water pump and other components that could be internal are external that’s when it’s good.
 
I know lol I was referring too like internal water pumps and stuff that are timing chain driven that’s when the chain becomes a problem. When it’s just a regular engine with a chain and the water pump and other components that could be internal are external that’s when it’s good.
3.5L Chrysler was the last timing belt motor I had … 100k recommended on the belt - and many just changed the water pump while it was tore down. Did both at 108k and looked good. Traded in at 140k …
 
Looking at the cover, I think you have an oiling problem on one side of the timing chain. I did a 5.4 head job once where one valve head look like that and found filter media in the oiling tube on that side blocking half of the oil flow to that side of the engine.
 
I see a lot of comments about the varnish. There are likely several reasons.
Heat
Type, grade and brand of oil. I’ve noticed that vehicles using Pennzoil and Castrol often have brown coloration to the metal surfaces.
Leaving the oil in for too many miles.
An oiling problem.
 
They pretty much are. The Transits are the fun ones because they no longer have a doghouse. My techs just love doing EGR coolers on the 3.2L Pumas. Ford mounted the EGR cooler on the back of the engine to where if it did have a doghouse it would be a 20 minute job.
Every time I go to the Ford dealer … they have this huge/fancy doghouse removed from a Super Duty !
 
3.5L Chrysler was the last timing belt motor I had … 100k recommended on the belt - and many just changed the water pump while it was tore down. Did both at 108k and looked good. Traded in at 140k …
I’ve got a truck that’s almost 32 years old with the original timing belt lol it’s got 108,000 on the clock. I need to replace it but I just don’t want to tear it down in the cold so I might wait till spring or summer rolls around. Fortunately it’s a non interference engine so if it does break then I’m ok.
 
Brotha, IDK how a mechanic keeps up with Ford's coolant! There are a dozen different types and more colors than an artist's color wheel!
Try working at the dealer and having to explain to everyone that yes the coolant changed, and yes it will be ok. I attach the SSM about it anytime I sell it to an outside shop and still get calls saying I sent the wrong coolant.
 
I see a lot of comments about the varnish. There are likely several reasons.
Heat
Type, grade and brand of oil. I’ve noticed that vehicles using Pennzoil and Castrol often have brown coloration to the metal surfaces.
Leaving the oil in for too many miles.
An oiling problem.
Would be interesting to put a thermal camera or temp gun on that cover after a long highway drive to see if there is a major temperature difference between both sides. That dark color doesn't inspire confidence to me....
 
Too bad those ACEA A3 oils are not available in Wal Mart for $22! Oh wait, they are.
Not sure going out of spec for an A3 oil (understanding they are stout) is the answer for owners worried about warranty compliance. The owner ran the cheapest quick lube conventional oil after purchasing the Expedition from a rental fleet. Stepping up to a proper ILSAC synthetic would have been a significant upgrade as many "under valve-cover" threads are evidence of.
 
Not sure going out of spec for an A3 oil (understanding they are stout) is the answer for owners worried about warranty compliance. The owner ran the cheapest quick lube conventional oil after purchasing the Expedition from a rental fleet. Stepping up to a proper ILSAC synthetic would have been a significant upgrade as many "under valve-cover" threads are evidence of.
Would be uprage, but considering DI issues in these engines, not upgrade enough.
 
Getawheel said his customer had been going by the OLM and using various quick lubes places to do his oil changes. I highly doubt the customer is going to make any changes. That being said, the customer’s best option would be to let his local Ford dealership do the oil changes. He would then be getting 5W30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, which is a very good oil for his engine. We’ve recently seen the PQIA oil analysis of the Motorcraft 5W30 SynBlend. It’s a pretty stout oil.
 
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