3.5 EcoBoost under valve covers/front cover

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BISCUT said:
Just an opinion but the Eco is not meant for the Quick Lubes and following the OLM. $50K truck from any manufacturer and needing this type of work at only 100k? I say this as F150 fan (the Expedition included) that I would consider that a failure. Eco seems to benefit well from 5k OCI and a synthetic quite well.

OP a HUGE thanks for the pics. So many of us love these types of images. Not sure but I noticed you are using the orange coolant....I know the orange coolant is a no go in my 15 5.0 F150 now as once again Ford changed coolant color to yellow (which is really lime green!). VC13G is what I believe is the new spec. Cross use is approved by Ford as well.
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Forgot about that, Motorcraft Yellow. Referring to my chart, the spec does in fact supersede Orange. Thanks for the reminder.
 
mattd said:
When timing the engine, how far off were the marks ?
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Haven’t timed it yet, will be doing that in the morning.

One thing I’ll be doing in the computer after clearing codes is wiping that IOLM crapola that clearly doesn’t work for this engine and setting it to 5k/6 months. Newer Ford OLMs are fairly easy to configure with the right software, ForScan can do it if you want to go that route, my new Autel DS808 can do it as well.
 
BTW - I purchsed a new 2017 F-150 with the 3.5L Ecoboost. My neighbor is a Ford Master mechanic (that's my extended warranty! hahaha) and he has one too. We are now 3-years into the Gen 2 and he has stated that the timing chain issues on the new Gen 2's are very rare. He also jokes that if Ford made everthing totally bulletproof he wouldn't have a job! He also told me that the 10-speed transmission is doing well, the major complaint is hard shifts and or clunking. I did have this clunk only in reverse BUT I found out it was my fault. IF I don't let the engine warm up for about 10 seconds and put it in reverse it will clunk a bit. It has never done it after the 10 seconds unless I would release the brake and hit the accelerator at the same time (2-feet, that should never be done unless you have a clutch!!). Plenty of torque with this V6!
I've had my truck for 3-1/2 years with 28K miles and the only issue I've had was water droplets in my driver's side brake light housing - Ford replaced under warranty.
 
It is my understanding that while the Dex-Cool (orange) coolant is what was spec'ed when manufactured, Ford has superedceded it with a yellow coolant that came out a few years ago. It's backwards compatible.
 
60jeffrey said:
It is my understanding that while the Dex-Cool (orange) coolant is what was spec'ed when manufactured, Ford has superedceded it with a yellow coolant that came out a few years ago. It's backwards compatible.
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Yep! That Motorcraft Yellow spec (DY) superseded Motorcraft Orange earlier this year. I hadn’t updated my coolant application chart so I missed it on this one.
 
Regarding sludge & varnish on the lower parts.

I assume some parts of the Engine don't get much oil flow and the PCV side can be darker as well ... looks like there is a lot of varnish/sludge on the lower parts.

based on everyone's reaction, it sounds like this is acceptable with conventional oil.

Curious what would be the expectation or reaction if syn oil was used? Same? Or should be shiny or much cleaner?
 
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OilUzer said:
Regarding sludge & varnish on the lower parts.

I assume some parts of the Engine don't get much oil flow and the PCV side can be darker as well ... looks like there is a lot of varnish/sludge on the lower parts.

based on everyone's reaction, it sounds like this is acceptable with conventional oil.

Curious what would be the expectation or reaction if syn oil was used? Same? Or should be shiny or much cleaner?
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In theory, should be much cleaner with a good synthetic. Of course, there are a million other variables in there.
I’m not sure I’d call this sludge, but definitely heavy varnish. Others may disagree.
 
MParr said:
There are two different springs in the kit. One for high performance and the other is regular size spring. If you already have the front engine cover off, why not replace the oil pump?
https://www.melling.com/parts-lookup/
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If it were mine, I’d replace it just because I was in there. I follow and agree with your reasoning there. But it’s not mine, and it’s hard to justify to a customer why I’m replacing what should be a lifetime item, especially when it’s not bad.
 
92saturnsl2 said:
What was the failure and what vehicle?

Can't tell from the photo whether that is a transverse or longitudinal engine. But I think I see a chain driven water pump in the center, so I'm gonna go with transverse.

Looks like a reasonably clean and maintained engine all things considered. That type of maintenance is what I bet 80%+ vehicles encounter, various quickie lubes (usually cheapest) when the reminder tells you to, and fix things when they break.
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it’s longitudinal mounted engine. I se them all the time at work
 
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