With long chains like that, i would be running a 0w-40.
I run 0w-40 or 15w40 in mine and it's still running good at 120k. (touch wood)With long chains like that, i would be running a 0w-40.
Not many external engine components have chains …Chains are better as long as they don’t drive internal components. They are better since they break less.
I know lol I was referring too like internal water pumps and stuff that are timing chain driven that’s when the chain becomes a problem. When it’s just a regular engine with a chain and the water pump and other components that could be internal are external that’s when it’s good.Not many external engine components have chains …
3.5L Chrysler was the last timing belt motor I had … 100k recommended on the belt - and many just changed the water pump while it was tore down. Did both at 108k and looked good. Traded in at 140k …I know lol I was referring too like internal water pumps and stuff that are timing chain driven that’s when the chain becomes a problem. When it’s just a regular engine with a chain and the water pump and other components that could be internal are external that’s when it’s good.
Every time I go to the Ford dealer … they have this huge/fancy doghouse removed from a Super Duty !They pretty much are. The Transits are the fun ones because they no longer have a doghouse. My techs just love doing EGR coolers on the 3.2L Pumas. Ford mounted the EGR cooler on the back of the engine to where if it did have a doghouse it would be a 20 minute job.
I’ve got a truck that’s almost 32 years old with the original timing belt lol it’s got 108,000 on the clock. I need to replace it but I just don’t want to tear it down in the cold so I might wait till spring or summer rolls around. Fortunately it’s a non interference engine so if it does break then I’m ok.3.5L Chrysler was the last timing belt motor I had … 100k recommended on the belt - and many just changed the water pump while it was tore down. Did both at 108k and looked good. Traded in at 140k …
Try working at the dealer and having to explain to everyone that yes the coolant changed, and yes it will be ok. I attach the SSM about it anytime I sell it to an outside shop and still get calls saying I sent the wrong coolant.Brotha, IDK how a mechanic keeps up with Ford's coolant! There are a dozen different types and more colors than an artist's color wheel!
No doghouse? That’s pathetic. Really. That was nothing but a cost saver for Ford and will make it horrendous to do even basic maintenance like spark plugs.
Would be interesting to put a thermal camera or temp gun on that cover after a long highway drive to see if there is a major temperature difference between both sides. That dark color doesn't inspire confidence to me....I see a lot of comments about the varnish. There are likely several reasons.
Heat
Type, grade and brand of oil. I’ve noticed that vehicles using Pennzoil and Castrol often have brown coloration to the metal surfaces.
Leaving the oil in for too many miles.
An oiling problem.
Not sure going out of spec for an A3 oil (understanding they are stout) is the answer for owners worried about warranty compliance. The owner ran the cheapest quick lube conventional oil after purchasing the Expedition from a rental fleet. Stepping up to a proper ILSAC synthetic would have been a significant upgrade as many "under valve-cover" threads are evidence of.Too bad those ACEA A3 oils are not available in Wal Mart for $22! Oh wait, they are.
Would be uprage, but considering DI issues in these engines, not upgrade enough.Not sure going out of spec for an A3 oil (understanding they are stout) is the answer for owners worried about warranty compliance. The owner ran the cheapest quick lube conventional oil after purchasing the Expedition from a rental fleet. Stepping up to a proper ILSAC synthetic would have been a significant upgrade as many "under valve-cover" threads are evidence of.