2nd gen RX-7

[fdcg27]

My quest for a convetible has taken me from an M30 to a SAAB 9-3 through an e36 BMW to an RX-7.
Car in question is an '88, clean and rust-free, 5spd.
White, blue interior, black top, 65K miles.
Seller wants 5K, I'm guessing 4K would put it in my garage.
I know this is not a fast car, but I've always considered these to be very attractive.
I also know that this will not be the right venue for my M1 15W-50 stash, but Mazda specs a 20W-50 for warm weather (I have some GTX in that grade), and I think a 15W-40 HDEO would work well (Tection Extra or Delvac, your choice).
Anyway, I know that the Wankel benefits from regular Italian tune-ups (darn, I'd have to redline it a couple of times each day!).

Thoughts from those who have owned these things?

 

[Gearhead113]

FWIW, these motors run really hot, expect to see high oil temps.

 

[mechanicx]

Several years ago, around '91-95, I had an used '86 the first year of the 2nd generation. I don't know how it is with parts now, but back in the 90's the parts were somewhat hard to find outside of the dealer and they were expensive. I imagine there are more aftermarket parts now. The exhaust system had a tendency to rust and a new exhaust system was $1000. The manual transmission was not available as a new assembly only individual parts.


At the time the car was sort of high tech and complicated but today it seems fairly simple. But some things on it are still kind of complicated even by today's standards. But a lot of things are easy to work on if you don't dig into too much big stuff. There is a drain for everything, even the gas tank, and the fuel pump is accessible from the top.

The car went 150K miles and I replaced the transmission shortly after getting it(I think it had blown a seal and burned up), later on a master cylinder,clutch slave cylinder, rear calipers, and other normal wear stuff like brake pads, water hoses, belts etc.

Since the car you are looking at despite being old is low miles it should have some life left in it assuming it is in good shape now. The rotary did like thick oil. It would burn 5W30 or 10W30 on start up, ran the smoothest on 20W50, but 15W40 seemed to be the best compromise.

Someone mentioned above they run hot, but IME they only reject a lot of heat and are actually hard to overheat with a mechanical fan and rejecting all the heat outward.

I just thought of something, you might have problems with the A/C since R12 is no longer available. You might be able to convert it to R134a but I'm not sure how well it would work. older GM cars seem to work well with R134a and PAG oil.

Another issue some of them have is a faulty fuel pressure regulator making them hard to start. I never got around to fixing it on mine.

I really liked the 2nd generation RX7. It looked really good on the outside and the interior was nice. Everything worked smoothly on that car. It was a good example of a cool 80's car. I'd like to have another one.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Mix 2 stroke oil at 256:1

will run smoother in my experience.

Check all the radiator and heater hoses.

I had a 87 that seemed to accelerate much harder around turns than in a line. had an 85 too!

I think they have 4 wheel steering that can be obtrusive.

Made in Hiroshima. High quality car, the interior has great seat, thick carpeting, beautiful orange gauges (its as close to red as I've seen and I still wonder to this day why cars have bright white gauges that harms night vision).

Tells you right under the hood which grades for which temps.


RIGHT, they do run hot. Check the exhaust (mufflers) for rot.

MT90 in the trans is as good as it gets.

I still dont get why they did away with pop up headlights. Its more aerodynamic and 20yrs later the lenses still look pristine.

Has an oil cooler

When you get it clean the fuel sock for the pump.

Also, (this took me a while to figure out). It would start then die on a hot start. Somehow I found that by basically resting your foot on the accelerator it would fire up and not give any problems. BUt if you forget this you may have to wait for it to cool down alot, or like i did one day was to drive it home near redline the whole way because it would bog and cut out at lower rpms.

Oh yeah, bleed the cooling system properly or you'll get a horrendous buzzer. And mine had its clutch replaced, which required the whole/most of the dash to be removed I think because when I opened up the shifter you couldnt get to some of the bolts of the shifter housing with out taking alot of interior apart, therefore, they (whoever changed my clutch before I got it) didnt put the steering wheel back on correctly which affected the power assist and had a warning beeper of its own.


Just random ideas I remember from having it.


FYI, I got a coupe in 08 for $2400. Took it to the dealership becuase I couldn't get to a bolt (stupid rookie) and they told me the ball joints, tie rods and clutch cylinder were bad to the tune of $1400.

Very comfortable car and a bit low which made getting in and out more of a task than with other cars Ive owned and I had to park it at the edge of an incline in the driveway to get a jack under the front.

Suspension transfers great for pulling ultimate g's when braking and feels good launching but almost comes off the ground on hilly interstate at above legal speeds.

Sounds good, loves to rev. Redline at 7000 but a cool warning 'horn?' at 6500.

 

[MrCritical]

According to a supposed legitimate Mazda warranty rep, the replacement rate for these engines under warranty was 70%....

 

[aquariuscsm]

I always loved those cars! Definitely use a thicker oil,dino only. If the car is in good shape,I say go for it!

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I also know that this will not be the right venue for my M1 15W-50 stash, but Mazda specs a 20W-50 for warm weather (I have some GTX in that grade)...


As an aside, only a BITOGer would buy a car to use some oil stash...

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I also know that this will not be the right venue for my M1 15W-50 stash, but Mazda specs a 20W-50 for warm weather (I have some GTX in that grade)...


As an aside, only a BITOGer would buy a car to use some oil stash...

LOL!
I have oils to suit most purposes in the stash, although nothing for current Euros (no 0W or 5W-40).
The Mazda had oil in its coolant, something I learned about on an RX-7 forum.
My convertible search resumed, and I ended up with a 318i, which is about as slow as a second gen RX-7, and revs almost as freely.
Too bad, becase the RX-7 was a really well kept car.
It would be a great platform for someone who has a good 13B laying around.

 

[typ901]

Had a '86 Coupe> No problems other than exhaust, clutches, and a wheel bearing. used to beat on the car and it burned a quart of oil every 500-1k miles. 16MPG only though.