2023+ BRZ (2nd Gen) Oil Recommendations

[edyvw]

Nope just Massachusetts.

So it seems 0W40 is even better than 5W30. Since it will do better at the colder temps (0W) and better at the hotter temps (40W).

I used all kind of oil in CO, 0W30/40, 5W30/40. I started engines using 5W40 at -42.
As said above, 0W40 or 5W40 in temperatures above -35 could mean anything. That being said, I tracked BMW using Mobil1 0W40 and hitting 300f oil temperatures and still doing 5k OCI.

 

[SR5]

Could I use 0W-40 in the winter? My car is located in Massachusetts so it gets below freezing. Or should I only be using 0W-20 in the winter.

Hi Friend,

Welcome!

Sorry it's a bit confusing when the old members joke around with the new members, I don't think it helps. With a new person it's better to take all questions at face value, and offer a sensible answer.

The first number is the Winter (W) rating and tells how cold it can get and still be safe to start the car. So in that respect a 0W20 and a 0W40 have the same cold temperature performance for starting. For your climate a 0Wx or a 5Wx oil will be fine.

The second number is the thickness (viscosity) of the oil at around operating temperature (100 degC). In this respect a 40 grade (xW40) is thicker when warm and offers more protection than a 20 grade (xW20) when warm.

One more important number is the HTHS (high temperature high shear) value, it's a better measure of how the oil performs in the high stress components of the engine.

So here is the tricky bit, a 30 grade (e.g. 5W30 or 0W30) ILSAC fuel economy oil (e.g. GF-6) usually have lower HTHS (around 3.1 cP). While a 30 grade European rated (ACEA A3/B4 or C3) oil would typically have a higher HTHS around 3.5 cP and offer you more protection when tracking your car.

Note there are some lower HTHS Euro oil ratings, but if you stick to A3/B4 (high SAPS, high ZDDP) or C3 (medium-SAPS, medium ZDDP). Then your oil has a HTHS of 3.5 cP or above.

So for a track oil, avoid an oil with ILSAC GF-6. Instead get an oil with ACEA A3/B4 or C3. These can be had as 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 or 5W40.

Me? I would get a name brand (M1, Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, etc) A3/B4 40 grade oil (0W40, 5W40), that also carries the OEM spec of Porsche A40 and MB 229.5. If you want mid-SAPS then it's C3, Porsche C30 and MB 229.51.

These OEM specs are difficult to pass, and any oil that carries them are of very high quality.

 

[Al]

I’m using Mobil 1 ESP 5w30

Thanks Patman

 

[Picothecat]

Hi Friend,

Welcome!

Sorry it's a bit confusing when the old members joke around with the new members, I don't think it helps. With a new person it's better to take all questions at face value, and offer a sensible answer.

The first number is the Winter (W) rating and tells how cold it can get and still be safe to start the car. So in that respect a 0W20 and a 0W40 have the same cold temperature performance for starting. For your climate a 0Wx or a 5Wx oil will be fine.

The second number is the thickness (viscosity) of the oil at around operating temperature (100 degC). In this respect a 40 grade (xW40) is thicker when warm and offers more protection than a 20 grade (xW20) when warm.

One more important number is the HTHS (high temperature high shear) value, it's a better measure of how the oil performs in the high stress components of the engine.

So here is the tricky bit, a 30 grade (e.g. 5W30 or 0W30) ILSAC fuel economy oil (e.g. GF-6) usually have lower HTHS (around 3.1 cP). While a 30 grade European rated (ACEA A3/B4 or C3) oil would typically have a higher HTHS around 3.5 cP and offer you more protection when tracking your car.

Note there are some lower HTHS Euro oil ratings, but if you stick to A3/B4 (high SAPS, high ZDDP) or C3 (medium-SAPS, medium ZDDP). Then your oil has a HTHS of 3.5 cP or above.

So for a track oil, avoid an oil with ILSAC GF-6. Instead get an oil with ACEA A3/B4 or C3. These can be had as 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 or 5W40.

Me? I would get a name brand (M1, Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, etc) A3/B4 40 grade oil (0W40, 5W40), that also carries the OEM spec of Porsche A40 and MB 229.5. If you want mid-SAPS then it's C3, Porsche C30 and MB 229.51.

These OEM specs are difficult to pass, and any oil that carries them are of very high quality.

Went with Pennzoil Ultra Plat 5W-30! Thanks for the solid explanation. Actually helps lol

Now that I know this information going to swap it for Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 or Mobil 1 FS 0W40 and just run that year round.

 

[Picothecat]

Hi Friend,

Welcome!

Sorry it's a bit confusing when the old members joke around with the new members, I don't think it helps. With a new person it's better to take all questions at face value, and offer a sensible answer.

The first number is the Winter (W) rating and tells how cold it can get and still be safe to start the car. So in that respect a 0W20 and a 0W40 have the same cold temperature performance for starting. For your climate a 0Wx or a 5Wx oil will be fine.

The second number is the thickness (viscosity) of the oil at around operating temperature (100 degC). In this respect a 40 grade (xW40) is thicker when warm and offers more protection than a 20 grade (xW20) when warm.

One more important number is the HTHS (high temperature high shear) value, it's a better measure of how the oil performs in the high stress components of the engine.

So here is the tricky bit, a 30 grade (e.g. 5W30 or 0W30) ILSAC fuel economy oil (e.g. GF-6) usually have lower HTHS (around 3.1 cP). While a 30 grade European rated (ACEA A3/B4 or C3) oil would typically have a higher HTHS around 3.5 cP and offer you more protection when tracking your car.

Note there are some lower HTHS Euro oil ratings, but if you stick to A3/B4 (high SAPS, high ZDDP) or C3 (medium-SAPS, medium ZDDP). Then your oil has a HTHS of 3.5 cP or above.

So for a track oil, avoid an oil with ILSAC GF-6. Instead get an oil with ACEA A3/B4 or C3. These can be had as 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 or 5W40.

Me? I would get a name brand (M1, Castrol Edge, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, etc) A3/B4 40 grade oil (0W40, 5W40), that also carries the OEM spec of Porsche A40 and MB 229.5. If you want mid-SAPS then it's C3, Porsche C30 and MB 229.51.

These OEM specs are difficult to pass, and any oil that carries them are of very high quality.

Just curious since now you have me researching more. Why not a C40 oil? They seem to be similar, except C40 looks to be Mid Saps?

 

[Kalle.J]

Lol alright geez. New comer here just trying to make sure.

Don't take any offense, we have just been discussing any measurable minute difference for way to long.

 

[Kalle.J]

Just curious since now you have me researching more. Why not a C40 oil? They seem to be similar, except C40 looks to be Mid Saps?

Full SAPS is in most cases still regarded as one of the most protective oil. Although C oils are likely good enough, and have catched up.
With expensive catalysts being integrated to the exhaust manifold, C oils might be able to keep you from having to replace it prematurely, if that is a concern.

 

[Picothecat]

Full SAPS is in most cases still regarded as one of the most protective oil. Although C oils are likely good enough, and have catched up.
With expensive catalysts being integrated to the exhaust manifold, C oils might be able to keep you from having to replace it prematurely, if that is a concern.

Got it. Ended up going with Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40.

One since it got updated for API SP to avoid LSPI but it still holds A40, 229.5, and A3/B4.

I do drive the car in the winter and it seems this will
be a non issue for me. So far haven’t tracked it, just autocross. But I have seen on the read out get oil temps up to 240F max.

Appreciate the help! Was just super nervous about leaving the spec 0W-20 and 5W-30 that I have been using lately.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Minimum XW40 to keep higher pressure and maybe save those rod bearings if you pull too much G. Maybe.

I think I’ve heard/read that the fix isn’t even really the oil; isn’t it one of the Killer-B oil pans that prevents starving the oil pump during extreme lateral acceleration?

 

[edyvw]

I think I’ve heard/read that the fix isn’t even really the oil; isn’t it one of the Killer-B oil pans that prevents starving the oil pump during extreme lateral acceleration?

Of course oil is not the fix, but bit thicker oil will give him bit more pressure.
I think in this case only accu sump is the solution.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Of course oil is not the fix, but bit thicker oil will give him bit more pressure.
I think in this case only accu sump is the solution.

Seems like Subaru should have considered a dry sump system for the BRZ. Although the oversight is partially understandable, as Subaru has never had a vehicle that would grip & turn like the BRZ is capable of on good tires. Everything before it either snowplowed with understeer through turns on pavement, or was rotated into the turns via oversteer with the e-brake when on unpaved surfaces

 

[edyvw]

Seems like Subaru should have considered a dry sump system for the BRZ. Although the oversight is partially understandable, as Subaru has never had a vehicle that would grip & turn like the BRZ is capable of on good tires. Everything before it either snowplowed with undeterred through turns on pavement, or was rotated into the turns via oversteer with the e-brake when on unpaved surfaces

No need to go dry. They could go with dual pickup lines like BMW M models.

 

[chris719]

Got it. Ended up going with Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40.

One since it got updated for API SP to avoid LSPI but it still holds A40, 229.5, and A3/B4.

I do drive the car in the winter and it seems this will
be a non issue for me. So far haven’t tracked it, just autocross. But I have seen on the read out get oil temps up to 240F max.

Appreciate the help! Was just super nervous about leaving the spec 0W-20 and 5W-30 that I have been using lately.

That or PP Euro 5W-40 would be my choice for that engine as well.