Interesting, thanks. I don’t think googles statement is 100% correct though. In the past ive verified with chevron and they confirmed that their chevron supreme 5w30 syn blend contains over 40% synthetic base stock. Pennzoil gold was known to contain over 50% synthetic base stock. Meanwhile, other more bargain-priced syn blends like smittys definitely fell in the 8-20% (depending on grade) range as confirmed by them
If a 5 quart jug of Super Tech Full Synthetic Dexos 1 Gen 3 approved oil can be purchased for $18.64, why would anyone be buying a synthetic blend.
The trick is you keep your foot out of it. If a person drives it as if it was a 6.2 the advantage is lost so you might as well buy the 6.2. Take it easy. Reserve the power for passing.
There’s plenty of people that still do- otherwise Walmart wouldn’t have the massive shelf space for it. Personally, I don’t want to switch my high mileage car that’s specd for conventional to syn. It’s ran conventional most of its life and I’d hate to risk leaking through old, hardened seals.
The myth of synthetic oil causing oil seal links was probably due to PAO Group IV based synthetics from prior decades shrinking oil seals.
6.2L needs 91 octane though, does it not? At a dollar per gallon more...The trick is you keep your foot out of it. If a person drives it as if it was a 6.2 the advantage is lost so you might as well buy the 6.2. Take it easy. Reserve the power for passing.
Funny, my son had a 2.7 in his work truck and he preferred driving my 5.3. To each their own!
Don't call it a myth. Call it the history. In the 80s, filling a high mileage engine that had only lived on conventional, with Mobil 1 for the first time, caused the engine to explode oil from every seam, almost immediately. Been there done that too many times.
I always wanted to speak to an engineer involved in developing an engine. Would it be fair to say that the selection of a rather low viscosity is due to meeting corporate gas mileage requirements rather than letting the engineers write the owners manual and selecting a higher viscosity?
I wonder how I got away with it in my 1974 Buick Regal and my '79, both of which only used conventional until I bought Mobil 1.
Me too. I’m sure it’ll get the job done, but at what cost later on. My son in laws company uses f150s eco boost and tow some pretty heavy job trailers. They either last or end up with thousands of dollars in repairs. My wife and I looked at the new rogues and I walked away from the 1.5. I just couldn’t see it parked in the driveway 100k from now without major repairs. Maybe I’m wrong.
Would you say the others on your team pretty much feel the same way? Who actually makes the recommendation of what oil to use in the owners manual, such as in GM’s requirement for 0w20 in their 5.3 and 6.2 liter V-8’s? I’m interested in how that works. I somehow get the impression the engineers know that a higher grade would be better for the engine but someone higher up the food chain says “ We need to meet the corporate fuel efficiency numbers so go with the 0W20“ . What do you think? Thanks in advance.
Thank you, so basically if the consumer does not care about the performance target for fuel economy they can go ahead an run 5W30. So there is nothing to worry about with the AFM regarding grade?