I just bought Hyundai CVT fluid for $14/quart. There are cheaper generics but I don't have the same confidence in a CVT as I do a standard automatic transmission that has been in use for decades. MaxLife has been out for YEARS and there is a significant user base for it in all kinds of transmissions. It is a proven commodity in my mind. I don't have the same confidence in generic CVT fluids so I'll spend the extra money for the Hyundai stuff. If you have any hesitation I'd do the same for the Toyota. You are buying peace of mind when you use OEM goodies.
2017 4Runner 50k ATF change. Toyota WS or Maxlife?
- Thread starter dedonderosa
- Start date
I put maxlife in our 07 FJ. I did several drain and fills to get what ws fluid out I could.It's been fine.
You can get Maxlife for like $20/gallon
On our FJ Cruiser I used Toyota WS. On the Tacoma I used Maxlife. No diff noticed in either. However, on a Lexus board I seen a thread where several Lexus owners stated they did not like Maxlife, Something the way their's shifted. Some stated they want back to the WS and were happy.
Would I use ML again? Yes. But to each their own.
Would I use ML again? Yes. But to each their own.
On the 2 transmissions that use WS (2010 Scion tC and 2012 Scion xB) using aftermarket fluid (Maxlife, Havoline, and Castrol) I did notice firmer shifting, which I liked, but I guess if you are driving a Lexus you want smoother shifting?
I've used nothing but maxlife in our 2012 corolla, shifts are smooth as expected.
That's about the right temp.
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Did a spill and fill on a friend’s GX with MaxLife instead of my usual WS, seems to shift fine. She hasn’t complained, I decided to use that since her husband has a heavy foot. ML is a GIII faux-synthetic, but it can’t be too worse off than the GII-based WS.
I did a complete flush* on the Tundra at 25,000 miles. I used AMSOIL Signature Series low viscosity- I forget the exact name - but the WS equivalent. It’s been great. Truck has been used for towing, driven short trips, all kinds of use, and the transmission shifts butter smooth.
*There is a published procedure for this - which involves pinning the thermostat open, disconnecting the cooler return line, and idling the engine while adding fluid. It’s a cooler line flush. Takes about 14 quarts. I did a pan drop and filter change at the Same time. Setting the level at the end is a bit fiddly, with reading the temperature via TechStream, and opening the second drain plug to set the level. Adding fluid is the worst part, with no dipstick, fluid has to be added through a port in the side of the transmission. For that, I got a garden sprayer type vessel and pumped the fluid in.
*There is a published procedure for this - which involves pinning the thermostat open, disconnecting the cooler return line, and idling the engine while adding fluid. It’s a cooler line flush. Takes about 14 quarts. I did a pan drop and filter change at the Same time. Setting the level at the end is a bit fiddly, with reading the temperature via TechStream, and opening the second drain plug to set the level. Adding fluid is the worst part, with no dipstick, fluid has to be added through a port in the side of the transmission. For that, I got a garden sprayer type vessel and pumped the fluid in.
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Astro14, I got a clear vinyl hose and ran it up from transmission fill hole up through the engine bay coming out near the master cylinder and then stuck a funnel in it.
Had hose just long enough that I could let the funnel be supported on its own sorta cradled in the opening. Gravity fed my ATF.
Had hose just long enough that I could let the funnel be supported on its own sorta cradled in the opening. Gravity fed my ATF.
On my Jeeps with Chrysler transmissions I have always used either the Mopar ATF+4 or the Valvoline ATF+4, both seem to work equally well.
Yeah, that would work, but I now have a couple of these - one for hydraulic fluid (Mercedes), one for ATF, and of course, a Motive for brakes.
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I use them to do a fluid flush, basically by running the system, and having the return line go into a container, while feeding fresh fluid from the tank.
For the Mercedes in particular, you need a pressure feed to keep up with the hydraulic pump demand or the pump will suck air and lose prime, which is bad in many ways.
Gotcha! I’m just doing D&F’s every 30K.Yeah, that would work, but I now have a couple of these - one for hydraulic fluid (Mercedes), one for ATF, and of course, a Motive for brakes.
1745 - Power Fill Pro 2 Gallon
Power Fill Pro 2 Gallon The 1745 Power Fill Pro 2 Gallon is the next-generation, industry-leading, fluid transfer pump that is on the brink of revolutionizing the way both DIY mechanics and professional auto technicians manage their vehicle fluids. Thanks to its top-of-the-line engineering...
I use them to do a fluid flush, basically by running the system, and having the return line go into a container, while feeding fresh fluid from the tank.
For the Mercedes in particular, you need a pressure feed to keep up with the hydraulic pump demand or the pump will suck air and lose prime, which is bad in many ways.
Maybe I should move on up with the Big Dogs?
I'm more of a flush it all out periodically kind of guy.Gotcha! I’m just doing D&F’s every 30K.
Maybe I should move on up with the Big Dogs?
The D&F works, not arguing against it, but would rather address fluid with a longer interval and complete exchange. Get all my maintenance done in one job, then don't worry about it for a while. It's been about 5 years since I did the transmission on the Tundra. It will likely be another two years before I get to a point where I need to do it again.
So, several small jobs, or one big job, your call. Both seem to work.
The hydraulic fluid in the active suspensions on the Mercedes is an interesting matter as well. I've had long life, and good reliability (so far) from the systems. And I flush them out every two years, even though Mercedes has no specified interval for fluid changes.
I bought a AST ATF filler from @The Critic, overkill for the RIYer but man, it makes the job much easier.
I bet you just stole this photo from the internet. No way it’s your photo! (Heavy sarcasm. I see the license plate. Lol)
Nice photo. I like the garage as well.
well sorry its been so long, i did end up going with maxlife atf in the 4Runner. what i did was drain the factory fluid cold and id say almost 4 qts came out, i refilled it with 4qts ran it for about 5 min shifting through the gears and drain it again. did this 4-5 times using about 12-16 qts to get as much old fluid out as possible. after the fluid starting coming out as clean as the new fluid i filled it back up, got it up to correct temp with the scan tool, did the level check and made sure it was good. truck feels great and def shifts much smoother i feel. did this at 45k miles btw. will do this again in another 30k and so on
This is what I use in my Tundra and 4Runner.
Toyota pushes their WS but Toyota doesn’t make oil, Aisin makes Toyota transmissions……..I’m willing to place a wager that this is the same stuff in a different bottle. Have had no issues so far.
Try to do a spill and fill every 50k, but that’s too easy to get away from me so I’m going to move to once a year in both vehicles, at the same time I change the cabin and air filters.
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Toyota pushes their WS but Toyota doesn’t make oil, Aisin makes Toyota transmissions……..I’m willing to place a wager that this is the same stuff in a different bottle. Have had no issues so far.
Try to do a spill and fill every 50k, but that’s too easy to get away from me so I’m going to move to once a year in both vehicles, at the same time I change the cabin and air filters.
Any difference in behavior?
