2015 Nissan Versa S | Oil Reccomendations

[Merkava_4]

The oil capacity for that engine is 3.7 quarts. Viscosity is 5W-30 for all temps. Recommended filter is Wix #51358. Being that it's a new car with such a small oil capacity, I'd run full synthetic to 3750 miles and that's it. Why? Because 4 quarts of oil has to work a lot harder than 5 or 6 quarts of oil. I'd dump the factory fill at 1000 miles.

Source: Amsoil

 

[bbhero]

That's a very valid point Merkava. Smaller sump size does not lend itself to super long runs on the oil.
I agree with the OP about running PYB. It will do just fine with that distance put on it.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
[font:Arial]The oil capacity for that engine is 3.7 quarts. Viscosity is 5W-30 for all temps. Recommended filter is Wix #51358. Being that it's a new car with such a small oil capacity, I'd run full synthetic to 3750 miles and that's it. Why? Because 4 quarts of oil has to work a lot harder than 5 or 6 quarts of oil. I'd dump the factory fill at 1000 miles.


...and your opinion is that PYB isn't up to this task? Or any SN/GF-5? Not sure i agree. We're talking about 3750 or 5000 mile OCI here not an extended one.

 

[SilverC6]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
You would probably only see a 2 or 3% increase in fuel economy with the synthetic vs. the dino oil.

I would suggest even that would be a big stretch, unless the dino were a 10w-30 HDEO and the synthetic an ILSAC rated 0w-30. Even then, I'd be skeptical.


As I said, hard to quantify...

Really too many factors to assess any real world gain in fuel economy.

Anecdotally, my best fuel economy ever was with two back-to-back fills of Havoline dino 5W-20 in my 2011 Camry.

I got mythical gas mileage on two round trips to Florida with the Havoline.

PP 0W-20 has gotten close on that same route but the Havoline remains my fuel economy champion.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: wemay
...and your opinion is that PYB isn't up to this task? Or any SN/GF-5? Not sure i agree.


I'm thinking the small sump capacity automatically puts the oil at severe service. Your oiling system is configured in a loop. If you were to mark one of the molecules for observation, that one molecule is having to circulate through the oiling system way more often than if it were in a larger 5 quart sump system. Every time that molecule circulates through the oiling system, it gets beat on by all sorts of things like bearings and camshaft lobes. It's a tough environment in there for that oil molecule.

 

[Garak]

He could make it very easy and do it at 3,000 miles, which is a bit shorter, of course, but easier on remembering from the odometer, and well within the capabilities of any SN/GF-5 5w-30.

 

[bbhero]

Some of us like having the harder math to help keep your our math skills strong

3750 is better for that than the simple 3000

 

[Garak]

Up here it's a cheat, because 3750 miles is 6000 km.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Garak
He could make it very easy and do it at 3,000 miles, which is a bit shorter, of course, but easier on remembering from the odometer, and well within the capabilities of any SN/GF-5 5w-30.

I had 3000 miles written in the post before I hit the Submit button, but I changed it to 3750 because I was afraid of catching massive amounts of flack over it. So in essence, I was thinking 3750 was more BITOG friendly than 3000 would be. But just between me and the horse in the barn, I'd go 3000 if it were my 3.7 quart capacity Nissan.

 

[bbhero]

Darn metric system

Ok than change it from 3,750 miles to say 3,825 miles.. There, problem solved. Or is it problem made??

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Garak
He could make it very easy and do it at 3,000 miles, which is a bit shorter, of course, but easier on remembering from the odometer, and well within the capabilities of any SN/GF-5 5w-30.

I had 3000 miles written in the post before I hit the Submit button, but I changed it to 3750 because I was afraid of catching massive amounts of flack over it. So in essence, I was thinking 3750 was more BITOG friendly than 3000 would be. But just between me and the horse in the barn, I'd go 3000 if it were my 3.7 quart capacity Nissan.

Is this mainly due to the fact it is a Nissan with a small sump? The Honda Fit with the 3.25 sump, doesn't seem to catch any flak. Or is this a general thought regarding small capacity engines?

 

[Garak]

Yep, there's no good escape with trying to convert!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: DEEPfrom1
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Garak
He could make it very easy and do it at 3,000 miles, which is a bit shorter, of course, but easier on remembering from the odometer, and well within the capabilities of any SN/GF-5 5w-30.

I had 3000 miles written in the post before I hit the Submit button, but I changed it to 3750 because I was afraid of catching massive amounts of flack over it. So in essence, I was thinking 3750 was more BITOG friendly than 3000 would be. But just between me and the horse in the barn, I'd go 3000 if it were my 3.7 quart capacity Nissan.

Is this mainly due to the fact it is a Nissan with a small sump? The Honda Fit with the 3.25 sump, doesn't seem to catch any flak. Or is this a general thought regarding small capacity engines?
Not undersized given the engine size, Its a 1.6L engine with one bank of DOHC cams. So why doesn't a 3.4L GM engine get flack for having a MUCH MORE UNDERSIZED SUMP for double the engine capacity. Comparatively, Its like your 1.6 has a 7 litre sump if it was a midsized V6!

 

[GenaFishbeck]

Originally Posted By: DEEPfrom1
I have been searching the forums regarding the 1.6L Versa, not a lot of information out there.

From what I have gathered, PYB seems to be to the go to for this car. Along with the factory recommended OIC of 3750. I will be avoiding the dealer oil changes, as I do not want an OEM Nissan filter, and would rather have the piece of mind of doing it myself.

A few questions:

1. Does anyone recommend dumping the FF before 3750 miles?

2. Does anyone recommend using an oversize filter for this car, to possibly help the small oil capacity?

3. Should I be switching this car to Synthetic, or just sticking with the Dino 5w30 during the factory warranty?

4. Lastly, what other brand oils should I be looking at besides PYB?


Thanks everyone, I always enjoy reading the BITOG forums!


Hey Deepfrom1 – If you’re looking to switch to a synthetic motor oil for your new Versa, you’re in luck. We’re currently looking for consumers who are willing to test out making the switch to Pennzoil Synthetics. We would like to give you the opportunity to get some results/feedback on the oil’s performance from an independent testing facility. Please send us a direct message with your contact information so we can fill you in on more details. Thanks! – The Pennzoil Team

 

[DNVDMAX]

Deep,

I have a 2012 Versa S, M/T, manual everything. It is very crude but reliable. I have pushed it hard on Texas highways in 100+ degree weather where the posted speed limit is 80 and 85 on TX-130. It too has the HR16DE engine and it is buzzy. That was probably the easy part of its life. Now it gets very short trips and sometimes in extremely cold weather down to -41F.

The odometer just rolled over 43,000 and it seems to be getting a little more fuel efficient. I take the car everywhere for day fishing trips, hikes, scouting trips for my next hunt, and even up the Arctic Circle up to Atigun Pass on the Dalton Hwy. It doesn't skip a beat. Some climbs are in 3rd gear with the engine at full tilt. So far no oil consumption. I even rolled the dice and put 5W-20 this time around. I will get that UOA'd also to look for excessive wear from using a non recommended grade.

The car gets whatever lube is on sale. It has had M1 AFE 0w-30, Havoline 5w-30, Valvoline NextGen 5w-30, M1 10w-30, Kendall 5w-30, G-OIL 5w-30, and now M1 EP 5w-20. Yours will be fine as long as you change it per the manual.

By the way mine has the 3qt sump capacity with 7500/3750(severe) recommended OCIs per the OM.

Here is my first UOA with Kendall Semi-Synthetic 5W-30.

HR16DE UOA

 

[DNVDMAX]

If you need someone to test your synthetics in extreme cold conditions, let me know. Winter is right around the corner and I have about 800 mi left on my current oil change.

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted By: DNVDMAX
Deep,

I have a 2012 Versa S, M/T, manual everything. It is very crude but reliable. I have pushed it hard on Texas highways in 100+ degree weather where the posted speed limit is 80 and 85 on TX-130. It too has the HR16DE engine and it is buzzy. That was probably the easy part of its life. Now it gets very short trips and sometimes in extremely cold weather down to -41F.

The odometer just rolled over 43,000 and it seems to be getting a little more fuel efficient. I take the car everywhere for day fishing trips, hikes, scouting trips for my next hunt, and even up the Arctic Circle up to Atigun Pass on the Dalton Hwy. It doesn't skip a beat. Some climbs are in 3rd gear with the engine at full tilt. So far no oil consumption. I even rolled the dice and put 5W-20 this time around. I will get that UOA'd also to look for excessive wear from using a non recommended grade.

The car gets whatever lube is on sale. It has had M1 AFE 0w-30, Havoline 5w-30, Valvoline NextGen 5w-30, M1 10w-30, Kendall 5w-30, G-OIL 5w-30, and now M1 EP 5w-20. Yours will be fine as long as you change it per the manual.

By the way mine has the 3qt sump capacity with 7500/3750(severe) recommended OCIs per the OM.

Here is my first UOA with Kendall Semi-Synthetic 5W-30.

HR16DE UOA



That is the hr16de I know! My 09 did numerous cross country trips, multiple mountain ranges, everything. It has also seen -30 in NY and 114 in AZ!

Thanks for the reassurance

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: DEEPfrom1
...
4. Lastly, what other brand oils should I be looking at besides PYB?


Thanks everyone, I always enjoy reading the BITOG forums!


You could always go Pennzoil Gold synthetic blend for like $1 more at Wal-[censored]...

 

[DEEPfrom1]

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: DEEPfrom1
...
4. Lastly, what other brand oils should I be looking at besides PYB?


Thanks everyone, I always enjoy reading the BITOG forums!


You could always go Pennzoil Gold synthetic blend for like $1 more at Wal-[censored]...



That is true, only 20 cents more, per quart.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Congrats on the new car!

For only 3750 OCI, get the cheapest SN on sale in the appropriate viscosity.

Kmart often has a sale on Smitty's syn blend for only $8.99 a jug. The only time I'd ever use synthetic on a short OCI is with the VW/Audi 1.8T.

No need to change the FF before 3750.

As far as filters go, the cheapest US-made filter you can get. Napa Proselect/Silver/Microgard, Purolator Classic, Carquest Red, Casite, Federated, Service Chimp, etc. No need to use a larger filter, especially for a short OCI and small sump. An oversized filter may not even fit.