Actually it is an inappropriate use of the spider chart. You can't use them across approvals or licenses. That's not their purpose.
2015 BMW N20 X1 UOA 5K MILES NON-EURO OIL: ROUND 2
- Thread starter KEVINK0000
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Deleted member 89374
I know. However, I'm trying to illustrate the shortcomings of the lubricant he's using versus what's required for his application.
This is the OAI report of the same sample as the latest BS result.
I am sure there will be some feedback. Have to check on the fuel issue for sure.
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Deleted member 89374
I'll explain what you're doing in a different way:
You chose a lubricant that's under-speced for your application. This forum is filled with enthusiasts and experts. None will get behind what you're doing, mainly because it's so painfully evident that it's wrong.
Now, if you choose a lubricant that side-speced for your application, say something that carries a VW502/505 MB 229.3/229.5 only approvals, then that's something we can all get behind. Because these lubricants are blended using common formulation and additive strategies with BMW Longlife-01.
To further exacerbate the problem, debris causes timing chain wear. By using the wrong lubricant, you're exacerbating the issue.
The bottom line is that you are doing a disservice to that engine by effectively shortening its lifespan, on purpose, I might add.
This experiment has no merit, so I'd be shocked if there is any positive outcome or benefit from conducting it.
This confirms what I said earlier about fuel dilution happening simultaneously with oxidative thickening. This isn't good at all for the engine.
The conclusion:
You need to install at the very least an approved motor oil in that BMW to better handle the fuel dilution, mechanical stress, and the heat generated by the engine. No matter how often you try what you're doing now, the results will be the same or worse.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
As I suspected, fuel is significant at 3%. TBN is also a bit lower. Oxidation isn't as bad I expected it to be, so that's good news. KV100 is consistent with what Blackstone found.
This is where a VOA would have been helpful, so we knew what virgin visc and oxidation were to see how far they've moved.
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Deleted member 89374
I think you're spot-on. If @KEVINK0000 can provide a VOA for the oil he used, then maybe we can draw some meaningful conclusions, and this experiment might be salvageable after all.
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Found this elsewhere on BITOG. Same oil VOA according to poster.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/quaker-state-5w30-sp.352111/page-2
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/quaker-state-5w30-sp.352111/page-2
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Another UOA recently posted of same engine, which is still on original chain, apparently.
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Deleted member 89374
Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is much better motor oil than Quaker State 5W-30. It has much better natural solubility than the Quaker State. For one, it uses ANs and Esters to keep your seals intact and your engine clean.
Look, disregard all my comments because all I'm trying to do is show you that you're doing this wrong. Instead, get some SAE40 Engine Cleaner from HPL and run it for one OCI with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or 5W-40. Then keep running one of these two Mobil 1 oils. I've run both in my wife's fuel-diluting 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe GDI 3.3L V6, and the 5W-40 usually came out dirtier and thicker than the 0W-40, but both left a clean engine behind. The N20 runs hot and will fuel dilute no matter what. So the best thing you can do for that engine is run the best motor oil you can afford. Fortunately, Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and 5W-40 are both available and excellent products. Neither carries the Longlife-01 approval. However, both are Full SAPS ACEA A3/B4 lubes that carry approvals in the same class as BMW Longlife-01. Of course, there is always QS 5W-40, but you may have to order it online. Oh, and there is PP Euro 0W-40 available for a reasonable $24.99 at Walmart.com. The bottom line is that running better oil will give your engine a buffer for when the oil is fuel-diluted and ran hot, thereby prolonging that engine's life and allowing your son to enjoy that vehicle for a longer period.
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I would use ll-01, as it has N20 timing chain test. Castrol 5w40, Valvoline 5w40, etc. OP, I know UOAs are meaningless, but a UOA with an ll-01 oil would be interesting. Would it mean anything? No
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Deleted member 89374
Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 used to carry Longlife-01 approval. The reason why it no longer has it has everything to do with lubricant politics and nothing to do with the oils capability. Of course, the choices you listed are absolutely valid and good oils. I have a slight bias towards Mobil 1.
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Nothing wrong with M1, but it’s really high saps. Might not be the best for turbo direction injection. Edyvw will probably have a better answer or recommendation
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
What immediately stands out is Calcium and Boron. Boron on this VOA is at 108. On your three UOA's it's ~30, all of them. Calcium is >1,400 on this VOA, while yours are all ~1,300ppm. Not huge differences but enough to raise an eyebrow.
Was the version you used SP?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Higher AW additives, and even more fuel than yours, lol, which has a pretty decent hit on viscosity.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Full SAPS actually does a pretty good job preventing LSPI because ZDDP acts as a mitigator. When ZDDP levels are reduced, then you have to reduce calcium, because calcium promotes LSPI, and that's what has led to these different formulations with magnesium replacing calcium.
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Deleted member 89374
To aleviate all concerns, and going strictly by approvals and API SN Plus/SP licensing, the Quaker State Euro 5W-40 would be the top pick for the OP's application. It's an LSPI friendly formulation that carries thd LL-01 approval, has a decent amount of ZDDP and a nearly 50/50 Magnezium/Calcium package.
However, I'm with @OVERKILL on the Mobil 1. I've ran Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and 5W-40 in GDI and T-GDI Hyundai engines, which are notorious fuel diluters, without a single issue.
And this, too:
With a long thread with more detail and more UOAs.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1742216
With a long thread with more detail and more UOAs.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1742216
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Another from Bimmerpost:
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This one the owner "caught" the timing chain problem before failure. I think there was actually more going on there, but here is another report:
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