I do not eschew physics, I only disagree with your opinions. There is a difference.
2015 BMW N20 X1 UOA 5K MILES NON-EURO OIL: ROUND 2
- Thread starter KEVINK0000
- Start date
Everyone has an opinion.
Don’t forget that that small o-ring on oil filter cage, even if it is not seated well, will cause VANOS code and eventually damage.
You already have excessive oxidation. 15k oil doesn’t have to have excessive oxidation. And N20 is not specd. for 15k regardless of oil.
Well all right, where is the element going then? Machine don't lie.
You're absolutely correct! I completely forgot to look at TIS.
Per BMW TIS (2019) LL-14FE+ (0w20) was allowed in the US for the N20/N26, but this isn't a low-saps formulation.
The discussion here is pointless. This thread is OP’s wishful thinking since first UOA.
But it used to be spec'd for 15k. Oxidation is not what I was referring to re: Vanos at 15k. Just plain old used, dirty oil.
Dirty oil? What is dirty oil? Oxidized oil.
When you are running oil not specified for that engine, oxidation will eventually take its toll and start creating issues=VANOS issues (among others. This is just an example).
BMW switched from 15k to 10k bcs. high sulfur gas. Today, probably LL01 oil could do 15k, who knows? But, they moved it from 15k to 10k bcs. TBN depletion, excessive oxidation. Your oil already has excessive oxidation, regardless is it 3k, 5k, 8k, 10k, based on your UOA it is not doing any good to an engine. Data is here, regardless of what you whish.
Oil gets dirty. This is new? Drop some 10k oil on a white paper towel. Come back in 15 minutes. Tell us what you see.
If you are just looking at the colorization of oil, what does that mean? On this forum, I assume that when someone says "dirty" does not just mean color!
Since when color itself is a determinant of the state of oil.
A blotter can show suspended particulates in the oil. This is the dirt I was referring to. This is something that clogs Vanos filters/screens, as well as oxidized oil goop, as you have said.. Also can clog the vacuum pump bearing screen if so equipped. And probably other screens/filters I don't know about.
Eyeballing particles is really not method to determine longevity of oil. I highly doubt that determination would be possible to make between 8k and 10k oil or 15k oil and say how oil is shot.
Blotter Spot Testing for Metallic and Other Solid Particles
Like most condition monitoring methods, blotter spot testing can add information or data to help answer questions about machine health and lubricant condition.
www.machinerylubrication.com
Your quote:
If you are just looking at the colorization of oil, what does that mean? On this forum, I assume that when someone says "dirty" does not just mean color!
Since when color itself is a determinant of the state of oil.
You didn't think oil could be dirty. It can be. It's not all oxidation, with age.
The oil is doing its job. It is cleaning. And what does it mean? You cannot eyeball oil quality based on colorization or paper test. You have to have real data. There is no paper test for any approvals, including specifications that oil you used meets.Blotter Spot Testing for Metallic and Other Solid Particles
Like most condition monitoring methods, blotter spot testing can add information or data to help answer questions about machine health and lubricant condition.
Your quote:
If you are just looking at the colorization of oil, what does that mean? On this forum, I assume that when someone says "dirty" does not just mean color!
Since when color itself is a determinant of the state of oil.
You didn't think oil could be dirty. It can be. It's not all oxidation, with age.
What are you even argue here? Your oil in that N20 is done. It is not appropriate for that engine, period! That is it.
Now, you are talking about colorization, paper testing etc. to prove what? What that has to do with that abysmal UOA?
Listen, you can use in your BMW WD40 instead of oil as far as anyone is concerned here. It still doesn’t change the fact that that oil is not appropriate for that engine and that you didn’t prove anything. Engines don’t explode with use of wrong engine. They just die slowly.
And you can use much higher quality LL01 and change it at 5k at the same price as this junk you have in your engine.
Read your posts again. You are making up stuff about what I said about dirty oil. You are also contradicting yourself.
I did not go down the rabbit hole about dirty oil.
To change topic back, I will say this also:
This UOA thread is still ongoing. In 13 pages of posts I have not called anyone out individually, although I have been called all kinds of names myself. So, I will say this, a very gentle admonishment: I think you as a BMW expert might be a bit blinded by convention. Maybe look at the UOAs before posting again. And the 2 VOAs posted.
And I’ll say this very gentle admonishment, a simple spectrographic analysis is not capable of showing what you think it does.
Point taken, but I disagree, in certain areas. Hopefully I will be able to resolve.
No one is calling you any names.
You came here fishing for support. You are not getting it and keep going bcs. you cannot comprehend that you didn’t make right choice. UOA is what it is and you are taking it personally. It is junk UOA. And you can try to spin this anyway you want with paper tests (and I still don’t understand point of your argument there) fact is, it is junk UOA.
I looked at your postings, it is, again, junk.
But, as I stated before, you can use extra virgin olive oil as far as I am concerned.
Then, I guess you need to move on. You have no idea of my motives, and it looks like you don't understand your own posts. All the best!
I did move on. But you keep fishing for approval.
Just making sure someone doesn’t read this and says: “all oils are same.”
I very well understand my posts. But good luck, eventually someone will stop by to say: you are the man. I did the same.
This car is getting near another OC, and I want to try a different oil. What are some recommendations from people who have the N20?
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