2012 Hyundai Accent Blown Engine, under 100K miles, on 3K Jiffy Lube conventional changes.

Ah, the ol' "I know a guy and you're not going to believe what happened to him" thread.
No first hand info, no reliable data.
Just a "hey, lemme tell you about my friend and Jiffy Lube".

Please come back with first hand information or data.
Thanks.
I thought it'd be less boring than thick vs thin, or Amsoil vs Mobil 1, so I went for it. Sorry it is not entertaining enough, and I don't have lab tests and UOAs.

The 2012 Accent was not part of that action.



I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS with over 130,000 miles. That knocking noise you're hearing is most likely the fuel injection pump which is notoriously noisy, especially if the injectors get gunked up and haven't been cleaned out regularly with a product such as Techron.

Aside from that these engines are well known to have a sensitivity to what oil filter is being used. Hyundai put out a fairly well known TSB some years ago which recommended to use Hyundai's OEM oil filter and that filter alone on these engines lest issues occur which are typically preempted by knocking noises that develop. I have not had any issues using Fram filters on my engine but I do know someone who had a bad knock that developed after getting a jobber oil filter put on at a quick lube place. FWIW my opinion of Jiffy Lube filters is that they are among the worst I have ever seen and I would not even think about putting one on a Hyundai engine that is known to be sensitive to oil filter usage.

My engine regularly throws a knock sensor check engine light after 3,000 miles or so on an oil change interval. It usually gets resolved by either changing the oil and filter, running a bottle of fuel injector or fuel system cleaner to the gas tank, or using higher octane fuel such as 91-93 octane, or a combination of any of these things.

Thank you, that's actually very informative and makes sense. Having an oil filter sensitivity issue in the past on my Celica Supra, the filter itself being problematic actually seems more likely than the oil if I logically think about it.

Or the tech could have underfilled it too. Jiffy lubes gonna jiffy lube..

Limp mode, what a douchebag. If my car goes into limp mode, I would pull over and get a tow home. Its meant so that you can continue to safety and shut off the car. And by continue to safety, I mean if in rush hour traffic, you can get safely to the side of the road, if your at an intersection, you can pull to safety. That moron sure did not help anything at all with his irresponsible behavior. Many different things could have caused the failure including. Hard to even speculate. Could be a new tsb came out about an issue, who knows.

Yeah, he just didn't seem to think/care about car stuff at all. I'm a couple years younger than him and opposite of his "typical millennial" car mentality.

I do agree with limp mode's purpose, however on some cars limp mode can be sort of a phantom problem. On my mom's Five Hundred when the drive by wire throttle body died, it went into limp mode a few times, then a couple minutes later would start up and act totally normal until it went into limp mode again a few days later. The times it did it I cleaned the throttle body and unplugged the battery and idled it to remap the ECU, though, to see if that fixed it. It's definitely a sign of "try to figure out the problem soon" and not just "drive around at 25mph forever."
 
Exactly what I would have done with the 500 in that case, there limp mode that goes away after you restart the car, and limp mode where you know you're boned because the car is misfiring. Two separate cases where your intelligence is an issue. I didn't learn about cars because I love working on them, I learned about cars because I can't afford to not. So much of your entire life revolves around an automobile, you're an idiot or rich if you don't think you have to.
 
I’d wager that short trips on an early GDI engine caused enough fuel dilution in the oil that slowly wiped out the bearings over 100k.
I wonder what oil they used at the Jiffy Lube?

I have noticed that my engine has serious issues with fuel dilution and carbon soot buildup in the crankcase, this seems to be a common theme with this engine. I drive over 95% at highway speeds and no matter what every time I drain the oil it smells like an open jerry can. My normal OCI is 3000-4000 miles.

I presume to think that Jiffy Lube probably used 5w20 because that is the standard Hyundai recommendation. That being said Hyundai allows for the usage of an Xw30 and I have always found that the engine operates better using such oil compared to a Xw20. Better to mitigate the fuel dilution issue as well.
 
This is from 2107.

Hyundai Motor Co. and Kia Motors Corp. announced recalls to inspect and, if necessary, replace four-cylinder engine assemblies in as many as 1.2 million U.S. vehicles, the South Korean companies said Friday.
Manufacturing errors in Hyundai’s 2.0- and 2.4-liter “Theta” four-cylinder engines, which both companies use in their vehicles, could cause engine bearings to wear prematurely and lead to an engine stall, according to recall notices posted on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s website Friday.
The problem can lead to a knocking noise and loss of power, and could cause the check-engine and engine oil pressure lights to illuminate, Johnson said.
The U.S. recall covers about 572,000 Hyundai Sonata and Santa Fe Sport vehicles from the 2013-2014 model years made at Hyundai’s plant in Montgomery, Alabama. About 618,000 Kias are affected, including Optima midsize sedans from model years 2011-2014, Sorento crossovers from 2012-2014, and Sportage crossovers from 2011-2013. All the affected vehicles use the four-cylinder “Theta” engine.

Sounds like that plant is the issue. Year seems a bit funny too :)
 
The 2012 Accent was not part of that action.



I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS with over 130,000 miles. That knocking noise you're hearing is most likely the fuel injection pump which is notoriously noisy, especially if the injectors get gunked up and haven't been cleaned out regularly with a product such as Techron.

Aside from that these engines are well known to have a sensitivity to what oil filter is being used. Hyundai put out a fairly well known TSB some years ago which recommended to use Hyundai's OEM oil filter and that filter alone on these engines lest issues occur which are typically preempted by knocking noises that develop. I have not had any issues using Fram filters on my engine but I do know someone who had a bad knock that developed after getting a jobber oil filter put on at a quick lube place. FWIW my opinion of Jiffy Lube filters is that they are among the worst I have ever seen and I would not even think about putting one on a Hyundai engine that is known to be sensitive to oil filter usage.

My engine regularly throws a knock sensor check engine light after 3,000 miles or so on an oil change interval. It usually gets resolved by either changing the oil and filter, running a bottle of fuel injector or fuel system cleaner to the gas tank, or using higher octane fuel such as 91-93 octane, or a combination of any of these things.
Sounds like pistons have serious amount of carbon on it that cause uncontrolled detonation. These GDI engines are tough on oil and show no mercy when any maintenance request doesn't get fulfilled on time.
Really sad to know that owners have to regularly add Techron in fuel tank just to keep it running w/o a knock.
 
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It did take a couple of class action lawsuits to get Hyundai to replace engines.

Well...they replaced my son's Sonata's motor well the before the court case was even settled. Had him in a rental for two weeks while waiting for the motor. Did they see the verdict coming....perhaps.
 
Maybe but unlike Ford with their 6.0 after they self destructed due to poor design, Hyundai actually replaces motors.
The 6.0L was the beginning of the end for the relationship between Ford and International, the 6.4L sealed the deal. While Ford's "quiet diesel" programming on the VT365 didn't help with injector and injector driver life, International definitely had some issues with that mill and it was plagued with problems for the first few years in both Ford and International applications.

It's unfortunate because, when properly sorted, that engine works phenomenally well. The design itself wasn't garbage, but International's execution, initially, created huge issues. The engine that replaced it however, the Maxforce 7 (PSD 6.4L) was a total pile of garbage.
 
I occasionally peruse a couple of Kia Soul FB groups. Full of young people who name their cars and ask what it means when the teapot light comes on. Most of these engines burn enough oil that driving three thou without pulling the dipstick would result in at least two quarts oil loss, maybe 2500 for the first quart and 500 for the second. When I took driver's ed before the punic wars the major areas covered changing tires and finding out what the dipstick was for. Kids these days.
 

3K Jiffy Lube conventional changes. What would conventional oil have to do with the problem?​

 
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