3K Jiffy Lube conventional changes. What would conventional oil have to do with the problem?
I think they may have simply been trying paint a picture of what specific oil was being used before it was asked about.
3K Jiffy Lube conventional changes. What would conventional oil have to do with the problem?
Jiffy lube oil is garbage, for about 3 oil changes i had them change oil and filter in 2002 Buick Century, yuck switched to VIOC and what happened was magic, no oil loss between changes car ran better and I was putting on quite alot of miles.So this one is interesting. My friend's family has a Hyundai Accent with fairly low miles, under 100K, that the father always took to Jiffy Lube for oil changes every 3K miles on the dot. Son mostly drove it, didn't warm it up ever, etc, or likely check oil. But the father was always on the dot with 3K oil changes at Jiffy Lube. I noticed about 2-3 years back at least the car developed a tick and then a knocking noise at startup, of which both the father and son ignored. I suggested perhaps switching to synthetic and seeing if it went away, and checking the timing chain, but I was ignored. To me the knock sounded like a timing chain slap or similar. I didn't notice any big drops/puddles on the ground at their place so it likely wasn't leaking oil, though.
Anyway, a couple weeks ago the son was driving it around in limp mode at 25mph and the mother finally took it in, and blown engine. So the timing chain didn't snap, as it still drove, but admittedly I don't know the actual failure point that occurred. Thankfully Hyundai is replacing the engine under warranty and did ask Jiffy Lube to fax over the oil change history.
This was one of the first Hyundai GDI engines, and I've heard of failures but this is a bit odd to me. Under 100K miles, oil changed often, etc. My father has the 2.4 in his Kia Sportage and it's had 180K miles and sounds great, but we've been mostly good with synthetic oil changes every 5K or so. No picture, but when the valve cover was pulled his mechanic said it looked brand new inside, timing chain still had a lot of tension and wasn't stretched, too. He also has a habit of warming up his cars in the morning, too, for about 2-3 minutes before driving away.
Maybe a bit controversial, but what do you guys think? I'll try to update if they can get me a specific thing like a rod being thrown in cylinder X, or bent valves, etc. But it's a surprising failure and makes me extremely unconfident in bulk conventional oil now, especially in a modern GDI car.
Given they've recalled, isn't it like 500,000 vehicles for engine fire risk, a flame suit when driving a Hyundai or parking one inside your garage might be a smart move.It's a Hyundai, does it need a reason?? "flame suit on"![]()
So the oil they used did not carry an appropriate API license or they were fraudulent in saying it did? What brand do they use and by what blender or manufacturer?Jiffy lube oil is garbage, for about 3 oil changes i had them change oil and filter in 2002 Buick Century, yuck switched to VIOC and what happened was magic, no oil loss between changes car ran better and I was putting on quite alot of miles.
Jiffy Lube franchisees may sell any oil they choose. I knew one who had prominent Pennzoil signage all over his buildings while dispensing Mobil Super. It was very deceptive.Jiffy lube oil is garbage, for about 3 oil changes i had them change oil and filter in 2002 Buick Century, yuck switched to VIOC and what happened was magic, no oil loss between changes car ran better and I was putting on quite alot of miles.
The 1.6 Gamma II is a pretty solidly designed engine as long as you frequently use injector cleaner, don't use 5w20, keep oil changes to 5k or even 3k, and use premium gas instead of regular. 191k on mine and I beat the absolute piss out of it daily.Sounds like Hyundai put out a garbage engine design.
Probably not the owner's fault.
You can go even thicker, all the way up to 15w-50. If you look up the engine clearances and oil operating temperature in the service manual and look up a suitable grade based on that on driven oils website it will tell you to use a 40 or 50. The right hand drive manual for UK and Australia allows up to 20w-50.I have noticed that my engine has serious issues with fuel dilution and carbon soot buildup in the crankcase, this seems to be a common theme with this engine. I drive over 95% at highway speeds and no matter what every time I drain the oil it smells like an open jerry can. My normal OCI is 3000-4000 miles.
I presume to think that Jiffy Lube probably used 5w20 because that is the standard Hyundai recommendation. That being said Hyundai allows for the usage of an Xw30 and I have always found that the engine operates better using such oil compared to a Xw20. Better to mitigate the fuel dilution issue as well.
You can go even thicker, all the way up to 15w-50. If you look up the engine clearances and oil operating temperature in the service manual and look up a suitable grade based on that on driven oils website it will tell you to use a 40 or 50. The right hand drive manual for UK and Australia allows up to 20w-50.
My advice to anyone with a Hyundai/Kia GDI is to use the thickest oil possible based on their starting temperatures, you will get a long life out of them if you do, and they won't sound like a clothes dryer filled with marbles.
Odd. Was it sluggish or what? I've never seen any real performance or fuel economy differences no matter what oil I used. Mobil 1 FS 0w40 and Chevron Delo 10w30 have extremely similar KV100 and HTHS.I used Mobil 1 0w40 FS one time in this engine and it did not run particularly well. No point in running super thick oil just because. Xw-30 grade oils work just fine, my choice right now is Chevron Delo XLE 10w30 which is a dual rated HDEO.
You take your vehicle to Jiffy Lube?Sounds like a combo problem to me.I like not to trust Jiffy Lube,some pretty new techs servicing my vehicle with maybe sketchy filters with the wrong weight oil.I always check my oil soon after change,to assure the level is correct on the stick.It could be started to using oil and not adding between changes.More than one driver,who is responsible for that?I'm also a believer in oil analysis, if my driving habits prove oil dilution,I shorten the frequency of the change.And lastly these engines are susceptible to failure.
Years ago I did,it was a cold Wi.winter day.I had them do what I normally do in my driveway.I had a Camry and used mineral oil and was anal about 3,000 mile changes.So,long story,they put in oil,changed filter.They then told and wanted to upcharge me to Syn.They sad they had a new tech and he made a mistake,I get that,but the lead man was busy and didn't catch that is unacceptable. I went home,the filter,plug was overtight,I changed,no confidence in them,and it was the last time.You take your vehicle to Jiffy Lube?
I didn't say I hated Jiffy Lube,I just answered the previous question.I totally agree,people should open the hood and check all the fluids and add as needed.You should also get in a habit of looking under the car for puddles.When you park,walk around,look for low tires,feel them for heat.Smell for anti freeze,you just can't blame the car.So much hate for Jiffy Lube, yet they service millions of cars per year with no problem.
Oil is not the problem here, probably a lack of opening the hood once in a while and check the oil.
This is a lost art with today's generation.
I have owned several hyundais, they all use a little bit of oil. I keep a quart of supertech on hand, and just top it up a little bit between changes, and its always at full.
I've accidentally put synthetic in a vehicle that said conventional on the sheet, didn't say anything to anyone and the customer got synthetic at the conventional price. Price difference is so small it doesn't matter, shops that charge $100 for a synthetic oil change are making serious money on that.Years ago I did,it was a cold Wi.winter day.I had them do what I normally do in my driveway.I had a Camry and used mineral oil and was anal about 3,000 mile changes.So,long story,they put in oil,changed filter.They then told and wanted to upcharge me to Syn.They sad they had a new tech and he made a mistake,I get that,but the lead man was busy and didn't catch that is unacceptable. I went home,the filter,plug was overtight,I changed,no confidence in them,and it was the last time.
I've accidentally put synthetic in a vehicle that said conventional on the sheet, didn't say anything to anyone and the customer got synthetic at the conventional price. Price difference is so small it doesn't matter, shops that charge $100 for a synthetic oil change are making serious money on that.