2010 Tacoma DC 4x4 SB 4.0L - Oil and Filter

[philobeddoe]

Hey Fellas,

I just traded my 2008 Prius for a 2010 Tacoma Sport 4x4 Double Cab Short Bed, 4.0L VVTi V6 and 5spd Auto Transmission.

I asked the dealer about break in and break in oil and was told they break them in at the factory, and change the oil.

Being that I cannot verify the veracity of this claim, and I have no idea what's in the crankcase, I am choosing to do what I typically do, which is change the oil at 1000 miles ... of course, work kept me busy and I'm at 1300 miles

So, a couple of questions ...

First, here's what I've got in the oil closet that may be applicable
2 jugs of the Amsoil 0w30 SSO
2 jugs of Rotella T 5w40
2 jugs of Peak 5w30
and about 12 Qts of Castrol GTX 5w30

I was thinking of using either the Peak and running it for 3k, or the Castrol and going for 5k

Then switching to the Amsoil

Any thoughts or advice in this regard?


Second, I don't have any Amsoil EAO 34 filters on hand, nor do I have any Wix
on hand

but it's a short hop to the Pep Boys down the street where I can snatch up a Purolator or Pure One filter ... no hassle, not a lot of money, and I don't plan on a super long interval

BUT ...

there's the OEM Replacement
PL10241 - pressure valve spec 12-17psi

there's the slightly longer
PL20195- pressure valve spec 12-15psi

and the longer and fatter
PL30001 - pressure valve spec 8-16psi


naturally, I'd like the best flow and filtration characteristics, and I'm as obsessed with oil as the next guy, but I don't really understand or know anything about the pressure valve specs, don't know what they mean, don't understand the relevance, don't know how they will affect me or my truck

I'm not towing, I drive neither conservative or aggressive, though I do stomp on it from time to time ... and I will also from time to time haul my motorcycle, a Kawasaki 1200 ... it's no Harley, but it's not light either

Is there any advantage to the taller, or taller and fatter filter, and what is the cost of that advantage in terms of the lower psi ratings?

I'm happy to use the OEM filter, but would like the piece of mind of better flow and filtration, and cleaner oil longer, that a larger filter may yield, even if I'm not going to extend the interval.



AND lastly, am I just being silly by running the conventional 3-5k interval when I've got jugs of Amsoil sitting around, or does it make sense to run the conventional for a short interval before filling the rig with the expensive juice?

Thanks fellas, I truly appreciate any advice and explanations you care to offer.

 

[08taco]

I would just use the castrol 5w30 for now. It will last the 5000 mile oci's for the warranty period. As far as filters go, to be honest with you the oem toyota filter at the stealership is a darn good filter and shouldn't be expensive either

 

[dave123]

I own a 06 with a 4.0L tough motor and they can be tough on oil proper break in with good ring seal is key. running GC with paper filter and Fram Ext guard oil filter 5000 mile oci in winter because they trend to dump fuel when cold and 7500 mile in summer. short runs till 10k is what i did and would do again and recommend lots of glitter on first few dumps.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: philobeddoe
Hey Fellas,

I just traded my 2008 Prius for a 2010 Tacoma Sport 4x4 Double Cab Short Bed, 4.0L VVTi V6 and 5spd Auto Transmission.

I asked the dealer about break in and break in oil and was told they break them in at the factory, and change the oil.

Being that I cannot verify the veracity of this claim, and I have no idea what's in the crankcase, I am choosing to do what I typically do, which is change the oil at 1000 miles ... of course, work kept me busy and I'm at 1300 miles

So, a couple of questions ...

First, here's what I've got in the oil closet that may be applicable
2 jugs of the Amsoil 0w30 SSO
2 jugs of Rotella T 5w40
2 jugs of Peak 5w30
and about 12 Qts of Castrol GTX 5w30

I was thinking of using either the Peak and running it for 3k, or the Castrol and going for 5k

Then switching to the Amsoil

Any thoughts or advice in this regard?


Second, I don't have any Amsoil EAO 34 filters on hand, nor do I have any Wix
on hand

but it's a short hop to the Pep Boys down the street where I can snatch up a Purolator or Pure One filter ... no hassle, not a lot of money, and I don't plan on a super long interval

BUT ...

there's the OEM Replacement
PL10241 - pressure valve spec 12-17psi

there's the slightly longer
PL20195- pressure valve spec 12-15psi

and the longer and fatter
PL30001 - pressure valve spec 8-16psi


naturally, I'd like the best flow and filtration characteristics, and I'm as obsessed with oil as the next guy, but I don't really understand or know anything about the pressure valve specs, don't know what they mean, don't understand the relevance, don't know how they will affect me or my truck

I'm not towing, I drive neither conservative or aggressive, though I do stomp on it from time to time ... and I will also from time to time haul my motorcycle, a Kawasaki 1200 ... it's no Harley, but it's not light either

Is there any advantage to the taller, or taller and fatter filter, and what is the cost of that advantage in terms of the lower psi ratings?

I'm happy to use the OEM filter, but would like the piece of mind of better flow and filtration, and cleaner oil longer, that a larger filter may yield, even if I'm not going to extend the interval.



AND lastly, am I just being silly by running the conventional 3-5k interval when I've got jugs of Amsoil sitting around, or does it make sense to run the conventional for a short interval before filling the rig with the expensive juice?

Thanks fellas, I truly appreciate any advice and explanations you care to offer.





Aren't the newer 4.0L Tacoma's spec'd for 5W-20? I know they used to be 5W-30 but I thought I read where Toyota changed it to 5W-20? My 05 4.0L Tacoma was 5W-30 so it is probably ok( doubt any real significant changes internally to the 4.0L making 30 weight an issue but perhaps??? )BUT you always should run the mfg specified weight from your owner's manual. I definitely would not run a 40 weight oil in it while under warranty. Run the mfg spec'd 20 or 30 weight.

You also want to be sure and change the oil by the max allowed for in your manual. Toyota is without doubt the most strict car mfg I have ever seen when it comes to people adhering to their warranty requirements. Anything major happens and they get area rep's involved and do testing and on and on. If there was one mfg out there( high end huge dollar mfg's excluded from this )I would be wary of not following the recommended maintenance steps with, per my owner's manual, it would be Toyota. VERY STRICT! Even if you have the greatest dealer around who will work with you many times with Toyota it is taken out of their hands. Just FYI.

PureOne filters are good filters at a reasonable price. FYI when I got my 05 4.0L Tacoma they were having a lot of trouble with upper end/valvetrain noise caused by restrictive oil filters( I would say maybe 50% of the people on the message forums - Toyota/Tacoma specific - reported the issue ). Mine had it BAD with the OE filter! Mobil 1 filters seemed to be the best at dealing with it and did help my engine a lot. Perhaps it has been addressed since and is no longer an issue? If you do experience some valve train clatter under load( was 1700-2000 RPM +/- for me - basically 50-65 MPH = rap clatter rap clatter etc... )try a different filter.

Also, as with the oil weight and interval length warning, stay with the correct filter part # for your application. Doesn't have to be the OE filter but make sure it is what the aftermarket filter mfg lists for your specific application. Do not upsize or use a filter that isn't specifically listed for your application just because it is bigger and "fits". Just another area they can use against you.

You have a brand new 2010 vehicle. Keep that warranty safe. JMHO.

Note on Amsoil oil filters. I saw where you mentioned Amsoil EAO filters. I am not sure of the specific EAO part #'s but there are like 3 of them used on Toyota's you definitely do not want to use. There is a TSB out from Amsoil on it where they are casing some issues when used in extended drain intervals. Can't recall the specifics and I don't recall the 4.0L being one of the at risk models but may be worth you checking into to be safe. I am sure Member's Pablo or Gary Allen( Amsoil dealers )can help you out.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: dave123
5000 mile oci in winter because they trend to dump fuel when cold


Very good point. Forgot how they did that as I haven't had mine for a while and only owned it 7 months before getting out of it as fast as I could anyway( lemon ). I would do 5K OCI year round actually.

 

[badnews]

Quote:
Aren't the newer 4.0L Tacoma's spec'd for 5W-20


Maybe the 4 cylinder not sure don't know about them , but not the V6 it is calling for a 5W30

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: badnews
Quote:
Aren't the newer 4.0L Tacoma's spec'd for 5W-20


Maybe the 4 cylinder not sure don't know about them , but not the V6 it is calling for a 5W30


Ok. Thanks.

 

[hate2work]

This link is to another thread talking about the Amsoil filter plugging problem. I linked the TSB in my post.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...131#Post1861131

Honestly, if I were you I would just run the OEM filter ( you can get them online for about $4 each ) and whatever 30 weight oil you want for 5k OCIs until your warranty is up. Then if you want to extend your OCI go for it. BTW, lots of good Taco info over at the TW forum.

 

[Bullet]

Personally I would change the oil at the first 1000 miles and then at not more than 4000 miles on a very good dino oil. I hvae the same engine and its tends to lower the TBN rather quick. I have posted some reports and it includes the factory oil that can be found using the search.

 

[philobeddoe]

Originally Posted By: Bullet
Personally I would change the oil at the first 1000 miles and then at not more than 4000 miles on a very good dino oil. I hvae the same engine and its tends to lower the TBN rather quick. I have posted some reports and it includes the factory oil that can be found using the search.


Thanks, I didn't find much in a search, I'll try again.

I drained the factory oil, going to send it in to Blackstone, it's got 1385miles on it, and refilled with the Castrol GTX 5w30, with a Purolator filter, you know, the fancy tan one with the sandpaper like surface ... not the OEM replacement size, but the slightly taller one.

Runs like a top.

Thanks again for the advice, and I'll get to a'searching now.

 

[Steve S]

You won't see any advantages running syn oil especially for the 5,000 mile oil change intervals. The engine doesn't require it. The engine will most likley out live your ownership of the vehicle with the lowest price proper rated oil and filter. SORRY BUT THAT IS THE TRUTH.

 

[gaspo]

Originally Posted By: badnews
Quote:
Aren't the newer 4.0L Tacoma's spec'd for 5W-20


Maybe the 4 cylinder not sure don't know about them , but not the V6 it is calling for a 5W30

Toyota Tacoma year 06 or later V6 GR series engines should use W20 oils.
Oil recommendation TSB