2010 FX4 | MS5K 5W-20 SN | 5.4L | 10,020mi

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Originally Posted By: Gabe
Originally Posted By: dnewton3

Acids: typically only a concern when TBN is low (below 1.0) AND TAN is high (8.0-10.0 is the upper limit according to Blackstone in their testing methods).


You are probably wrong on that. HERE and HERE are a couple good articles that disagree with you.


I disagree with your assessment, and I'll speak directly to your sources.

First, the link to our site references Ryan at Blackstone; I've worked with him in some detail for my two articles. We've discussed this before between the two of us. Additionally, Blackstone is the service I use, and have been given the direct information that until TAN is high, acid is not of great concern. With their testing methods, a TAN of 8+ is considered "high".

As for the Noria link, which references Polaris labs, I've spoken with Polaris also. There is no "hard and fast" condemnation point for acid from them. The "reccommend" when TAN crosses TAN only because it is easily defined; it is NOT an assurance of things gone wrong. And how helpful is this method when you don't even know TAN? Most people only get TBN. What if TBN were 5.0, but TAN were 5.3? If you don't pay for BOTH TBN and TAN, then it could be possible for TAN to cross TBN, and you'd not know it. But for those who typically get only the TBN, they would "presume" everything is fine because the TBN was "high enough" in their mind. This is a silly way of determining an OCI if this is your SOLE condemnation method. Two lines intersect, and suddenly you presume the lube is worthless? Preposterous.

And this UOA, along with my recent UOA, are total proof of concept. Acid is only a concern if it acts upon something, right? If acid had no effect, then what would the danger be? So, the concern with low TBN and high TAN is that acid will start to eat at the metal surfaces, causing excessive wear (most specifically pitting). But I ask you, where it the evidence that the acid pitting is happening in this UOA? The Al, Cr, Pb and Cu are all flat-lined; there is not pitting occuring. The Fe wear rate is DROPPING, not climbing.

The TAN in this UOA is 3+; Blackstone warns of acid at 8+. There is life left despite what you think. Now, the question does become "how much lube life is left". That is of some debate; I agree there. And the only way to safetly asnwer that is to cautiously extend, a few thousand miles at a time, and keep a close eye on not just TAN, but wear metals.

To make an analogy, this would be akin to discussing the concern of allergens in my home. Perhaps the filter is not doing it's job of pulling out pollen, but the level of pollen has not risen enough to trigger my reaction.

Until you see wear metals react to the acid, the acid level is only cautionary, and not compulsory for a change. And it's not like a little acid will simply ruin a bearing in three minutes, either ... It takes time for such pitting to occur. Time that would easily allow for the detection of the onset.


Futher, we cannot look at singular numbers and simply forget about statistical variance. There is always some shift in each measureable. TAN actually went DOWN even though the OCI went up! Is that a correlation or causation? Is that within sigma variance or is it abnormal.


No - I do not accept the plea that acid is at a danger level here, nor was the OCI over-run. The articles you linked speak to cautionary points of awareness, not assurance of damage. They offer limits based upon general warnings, not individual assessment.

Originally Posted By: Gabe
This oil was left in too long. I am curious why we are not seeing the additional wear.


Simple - the acid is still not high enough to degrade the metals. Just because it intersected the TBN on a graph, does NOT assure an untimely death to the equipment.

Those graphs are no more useful than is a " ... or one year" OCI. They don't rely on individual assessment with wear correlation or causation; they are blind obedience traits.


In short, what does it matter if TAN is 3, 13 or 30, if wear metals are not being affected? TAN is an input measurable; wear metals are output measurables.


And that's what most folks simply don't get. They are overly concerned about inputs, and not outputs. There is plenty of proof that vis is NOT the end-all-be-all of wear control, but folks still swear by it. There are pleny of those who pledge alegience to ZDDP, but there are lots of engines that run without any of it (aircraft engines run with no ZDDP whatsoever). TAN is simply a predictor of possible future issues; it is NOT a reason to condemn a fluid solely on its merit. It is a cautionary marker, not a limit.


I don't care if a 50/50 mix of goat milk and pool cleaner was used in this engine; when wear is this good, with no contaminant intrusion, there is no reason not to continue a load.

Not to steal any thunder from Glen's UOA here (it's marvelous), but I wonder what horrid things will happen to my wife's van when I run 15k miles on ST dino, have TAN cross TBN, and still get excellent wear results? Will it still be your position that the OCI was too long?
 
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Another great report! I have been following your UOA's and have been running MS5K in my vehicles since AZ had that great sale a year or so ago and I stocked up.

Thank you for the continued info!
 
Does this vehicle have a bypass filtering system? I see some reference to bypass filtering above.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Does this vehicle have a bypass filtering system? I see some reference to bypass filtering above.

No, it does not. Motorcraft FL820s filters are the only filters the FX4 has seen since birth (it only has the OEM filter mount--no bypass or aftermarket set up).
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Acid is only a concern if it acts upon something, right? If acid had no effect, then what would the danger be? So, the concern with low TBN and high TAN is that acid will start to eat at the metal surfaces, causing excessive wear (most specifically pitting).


Acid eating through the engine block is not exactly a concern.

The concern with a high TAN is that it is formed by the breakdown of an additive and base oils. When hydrocarbons react with oxygen, it can cause carboxylic acids which result in an increased TAN value. The problem is, given time and temperature, those oxidation products can polymerize.
 
I was speaking of pitting in the bearings. There are many forms of bearing destruction; pitting, galling, abrasion, gouging, etc. I was not speaking of the block.

Regardless, this UOA shows Fe wear dropping, and the other are so low it's moot.

If TBN were down to 1.0, and TAN was 6+, then I'd be much more interested in it's approach to the danger zone. But it's 3.0 here. TAN is only an issue if it's causing a negative affect on wear or such; it's not. There is zero acid concern here. None. Zip. Nada.




Here's how most BITOGers look at a UOA ...
Is the wear good? If not, blame the oil.
If the wear is good, but vis it out of spec; blame the oil.
If the wear is good, and vis is OK, then blame the FP if it's out of spec.
If the wear is good, and vis is OK, and FP is alright, then blame the insolubles.
If the wear is good, and vis is OK, and FP is alright, and insolubles are acceptable, then blame the TBN.
If the wear is good, and vis is OK, and FP is alright, and insolubles are acceptable, and TBN is not low, then blame the TAN when it crosses the TBN ...


Do you see a pattern here? Some folks just keep looking for a reason to blame a lube, even though wear continues to be good. And isn't the PRIMARY function of lube to reduce wear? Sure, oils cool and control contamination, but those are all secondary to wear reduction. Here, in this UOA, EVERYTHING is good and wear is still dropping.

Some folks just cannot accept that lubes are way more capable then they want to admit, especially when it's a dino lube running every bit as strong as a super-premium syn like PU.
 
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Good engine, good oil and easy driving conditions = excellent 10k miles UOA.

I agree with 2 out of 3; but in every OCI there has been a fair amount of towing and I would not necessarily agree that can be classified as an easy driving condition.
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Thanks for keeping us up on your UOA. I am truly beginning to thing that I have no use for synthetic oil in any of my applications. The more I read on this forum the more stout the conventional SN oils are. I still have two cases of shell synthetic but after that is used I believe I will buy some conventional oil. Thank you again for the post and please keep up the good work!
 
Originally Posted By: FFeng7
Thanks for keeping us up on your UOA. I am truly beginning to thing that I have no use for synthetic oil in any of my applications. The more I read on this forum the more stout the conventional SN oils are. I still have two cases of shell synthetic but after that is used I believe I will buy some conventional oil. Thank you again for the post and please keep up the good work!

Many thanks for the kind words--might I suggest Mobil Super 5000 as your conventional oil of choice?
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Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: FFeng7
Thanks for keeping us up on your UOA. I am truly beginning to thing that I have no use for synthetic oil in any of my applications. The more I read on this forum the more stout the conventional SN oils are. I still have two cases of shell synthetic but after that is used I believe I will buy some conventional oil. Thank you again for the post and please keep up the good work!

Many thanks for the kind words--might I suggest Mobil Super 5000 as your conventional oil of choice?
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Mobil Super 5000 is the oil I've been looking at. The everyday price at Wal-Mart is tough to beat.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3

I don't care if a 50/50 mix of goat milk and pool cleaner was used in this engine; when wear is this good, with no contaminant intrusion, there is no reason not to continue a load.


We already have the Caterham blend. Now introducing the Newton blend.

In all seriousness, this is a great UOA. I am having trouble sticking to PYB for my upcoming Ecoboost changes with these great results. When there are results like these at that price, the only real reason left for PYB would be lack of UOA data to feed the BITOG appetite.
 
This is the regular Super that is not a syn-blend, correct? It's just the HM Super that is a blend?

Both of them use Titanium, also correct?
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
This is the regular Super that is not a syn-blend, correct? It's just the HM Super that is a blend?

Both of them use Titanium, also correct?

It is the regular MS5K and it is not a blend, it is full conventional. I know that Mobil Super uses titanium, but I am not sure about the HM version.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
This is the regular Super that is not a syn-blend, correct? It's just the HM Super that is a blend?

Both of them use Titanium, also correct?

Were you able to find any information that indicates titanium is in the add pack of HM?
 
So no make up oil added? Sorry if I missed that. This thread makes me much more comfortable going 10k on my dad's 2012 Camry with full syn. oil. How's the color of the oil? I know its not a tell all but just curious.
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

. I think my cost was about $17 for 7 quarts including the MC FL-820s filter. $1.70 per 1K; not too bad.
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So you are not replacing the 820 halfway thru, correct?
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

. I think my cost was about $17 for 7 quarts including the MC FL-820s filter. $1.70 per 1K; not too bad.
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So you are not replacing the 820 halfway thru, correct?





No he is not.
 
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
So no make up oil added? Sorry if I missed that. This thread makes me much more comfortable going 10k on my dad's 2012 Camry with full syn. oil. How's the color of the oil? I know its not a tell all but just curious.

Yes; I added 0.5 quarts at around 7,500 miles. Thanks for pointing that out; I need to add another column to my records and update it with the make-up oil. The color was dark, but not like tar; it was a deep brown. You should have no worries going 10K with full synthetic provided it is not a lot of stop and go driving (i.e. short tripping).
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4

. I think my cost was about $17 for 7 quarts including the MC FL-820s filter. $1.70 per 1K; not too bad.
grin.gif


So you are not replacing the 820 halfway thru, correct?

No he is not.

Correct; no replacement--the FL-820s is good for 10K. If you search you will see where I dissected it in the oil filter forum.
 
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