2009 Mazda5 - Rear wheel wells rusty, questions about replacement parts

[Number_35]

It's time to either repair the rust on the 2009 Mazda5, or replace the vehicle.

Given car prices here, it makes sense to repair it.

I took the car over to my autobody man, and he recommended buying replacement rear wheel arches - he thinks they're too far gone to repair, and figures it would cost more for him to fabricate them himself.

These are some of the options:

Mill Supply
https://www.millsupply.com/auto-bod...10/05-10-mazda-5-rear-wheel-arch-2470554l.php
This comes to about US$234 for the pair with shipping.
The panels are in-stock, and are made in Denmark.

Raybuck Auto Body Parts
https://raybuck.com/product/2005-2010-mazda-5-rear-wheel-arch-passengers-side/
Shipping is very high, with the total coming to US$360
No information on where the panels are made.

Nor/Am Auto Body Parts
https://www.noramstore.ca/i-2718692...l-arch-drivers-side.html?ref=category:1318757
C$281, with shipping included.
No information on the COO. Shipping is estimated at 3 - 4 weeks.

My questions and comments:

1. What are the chances these are all from the same manufacturer? (A good quality part is my top priority, within reason. If they're all from the same manufacturer, then it's a level playing field.

2. Has anyone here bought similar replacement body parts? If so, what was your experience?

Thanks for any and all thoughts on this.

 

[Trav]

I had bought some from Mill Supply, they fit well and were good steel. You have to be careful with these and check the inner fender and inner lip, they can be a real mess requiring fabrication. I usually flange the fender after cutting the rot out and bond it on, it will not rust at the welded seam if mig welded.
Over the years I have done a lot of Maza 6 and 3 models, they were pretty bad, no guarantee the rockers wont be gone in a year.

 

[Number_35]

I had bought some from Mill Supply, they fit well and were good steel. You have to be careful with these and check the inner fender and inner lip, they can be a real mess requiring fabrication. I usually flange the fender after cutting the rot out and bond it on, it will not rust at the welded seam if mig welded.
Over the years I have done a lot of Maza 6 and 3 models, they were pretty bad, no guarantee the rockers wont be gone in a year.

Thanks Trav, that's exactly the type of feedback I was hoping for!

 

[Cujet]

I'm quite sure you've heard this before: When you see rust on the outside, the inside hidden rust is much worse".

I suspect that's the case here. Repairs that seem simply really do need an accurate evaluation before moving ahead. I've always been stunned at how significantly rust spreads once it starts.

It is one of the reasons I moved to FL in 1983. I could not afford to replace cars due to corrosion.

Although, it looks like you are in CA. If that is a CA car, maybe it's not so bad after all?

 

[Fla]

I've found that a lot of replacement body panels are made of very thin metal. Make sure of what you're getting. Oh, and the sellers play fast and lose with the "gauge" that they claim. I would measure whatever I ordered after I got it and if necessary send it back.

 

[Number_35]

I'm quite sure you've heard this before: When you see rust on the outside, the inside hidden rust is much worse".

I suspect that's the case here. Repairs that seem simply really do need an accurate evaluation before moving ahead. I've always been stunned at how significantly rust spreads once it starts.

It is one of the reasons I moved to FL in 1983. I could not afford to replace cars due to corrosion.

Although, it looks like you are in CA. If that is a CA car, maybe it's not so bad after all?

@Cujet, for better or worse I'm on the Canadian Prairies rather than idyllic California. (Coincidentally, there are more people in California than Canada - almost 40M vs. c. 38M.)

Because it's so cold here in the winter, rust is less of a problem than in milder winter climates, but is certainly still a thing.

The rest of the car is in pretty good shape; I've had it oil-sprayed most years over the 10 years we've owned it. The underside looks good. The rear wheel arches are almost always problem here though - they invariably accumulate slush. (Because the sand is salted, there's often a layer of "mashed potatoes" which stays mushy down to about -10°C.)

All that to say that this repair should buy another four or five years for the body.

 

[KGMtech]

Did your bodyman confirm that these replacement panels will be all you need? there will not be additional sheetmetal that will need to be replaced on the inner wheel wells? Naturally it would be a punch to the gut to find out after ordering parts that the damaged metal is far more extensive than the original estimate.

 

[Number_35]

Did your bodyman confirm that these replacement panels will be all you need? there will not be additional sheetmetal that will need to be replaced on the inner wheel wells? Naturally it would be a punch to the gut to find out after ordering parts that the damaged metal is far more extensive than the original estimate.

I was just under the rear of the car. There's nothing else that's terrible.

I am a little disappointed that my oil spray guy missed a few spots. I have the rear bumper cover off, so it's a lot easier to see where he missed.

 

[Cujet]

Then it does sound like it is worth it. New cars are stupidly expensive. And the fun ones are rare.

 

[Number_35]

Here are some shots of the Mazda5 in question.

Passenger side - front

Passenger side - top

Passenger side - toward the back
There's not enough there to secure the rear bumper cover.

Driver's side - toward the back
Same thing as on the other side - no way to secure the bumper cover

Driver's side - top

Driver's side - front

 

[Number_35]

I'm not alone - here are few vehicles I spotted yesterday, mostly in my neighbourhood:

Ford Escort
Who knew titanium could rust? :>)

Chevy Avalanche

Acura

Subaru

Nissan Sentra

Audi
(This one surprised me.)

Pontiac Torrent

Chevy truck

I think this was a Pontiac.

 

[addyguy]

That is nothing for rust on an 09. Would not waste the $$ trying to repair it. The repair will rust, so just oil spray the metal well, and leave it - it will last the 4-5 years you want w/o spending the $$.