2009 Mazda5 - No Blower Fan - Which Resistor Module?

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Jul 7, 2014
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Winnipeg MB CA
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...g,blower+motor+control+module+/+resistor,6557

Hey, all, this is for Jr's 2009 Mazda5. The blower fan has quit completely.

I suspect the problem is the resistor module (Power MOS FET in Mazda-speak). I've removed it, and checked the resistance, expecting to see something low between the pins that connect to the LY(I) and B(I) terminals. Instead, it's open, likely due to the internal fuse being blown.

Here's a schematic I marked up for my sister, whose 2008 Mazda5 had the same problem about two years ago, which I helped her troubleshoot long-distance. (Her repair was successful, sort off - she bought a generic part from Lordco, an auto parts store I'd never heard of, and the fan worked, but then failed not long after. I think she took it to a shop at that point, and they replaced the white box unit with a better one, which has been fine since.)

2009 Mazda5 blower fan schematic.webp


All that to say, I'm looking for advice on which of the available parts listed on the linked RA site are good, and which to avoid.

Given that we're near the end of October, I need to get this going soon, so may buy locally rather than through RA, but at least can ask the local parts stores which part they carry. I haven't called the dealer yet, but assume the part will be crazy expensive. (I should call anyway.)

I can also jumper through the connector to bypass the resistors completely, but am slightly leery, as the blower motor ground normally runs through at least some resistance.

Thanks, all!
 
I can tell you I had same thing happen in my wifes 2006 Mazda 5 and we replaced it with a UAC module. Sold the car 6 years later and it was still working.
Do you remember if your 5 had the automatic climate control?

Ours does, and I can't tell from the RA description whether or not the UAC unit is for the auto or manual system.
 
suspect the problem is the resistor module
Though this is a common problem, you should still do some troubleshooting before buying a part. With everything plugged in, key turned on, and control panel set to high, measure the voltage across the blower motor plug. If there is voltage but the motor doesn't turn, motor is bad. Then measure from each lead to ground. If both leads are zero volts there's no power coming from the fuse and relay. If both leads are 12 volts, it's a problem on the ground side, the power FET is probably bad.

It is OK to jump across the power FET; the motor will run full blast whenever the key is on. The system is designed that high speed is as little resistance as possible.

If you find the power FET is bad check the ductwork for mouse nests etc preventing the blower wheel from turning or obstructing the airflow. The FET module needs cooling from the fan.
 
Though this is a common problem, you should still do some troubleshooting before buying a part. With everything plugged in, key turned on, and control panel set to high, measure the voltage across the blower motor plug. If there is voltage but the motor doesn't turn, motor is bad. Then measure from each lead to ground. If both leads are zero volts there's no power coming from the fuse and relay. If both leads are 12 volts, it's a problem on the ground side, the power FET is probably bad.

It is OK to jump across the power FET; the motor will run full blast whenever the key is on. The system is designed that high speed is as little resistance as possible.

If you find the power FET is bad check the ductwork for mouse nests etc preventing the blower wheel from turning or obstructing the airflow. The FET module needs cooling from the fan.
I'm just in from doing a Red Green repair - I jumpered across the input and ground of the plug to the resistor module. The fan now runs on high whenever the ignition is on. The temperature and vent location can still be controlled. This is a good fix until I can bring another part in. (I was unable to find anything locally, even used.)
 
I just ordered the WVE4P1704 from RA. It's supposed to be delivered Thursday - that's faster than the parts stores can bring one in.

It was that or the Dorman, as I needed one for use with automatic climate control and with rear blower. I presumed that the WVE will be of better quality, but time will tell.
 
I just ordered the WVE4P1704 from RA. It's supposed to be delivered Thursday - that's faster than the parts stores can bring one in.

It was that or the Dorman, as I needed one for use with automatic climate control and with rear blower. I presumed that the WVE will be of better quality, but time will tell.
every time I hear dorman my body shakes in terror.. :unsure:

the WVE was Wells Vehicle Electronics bought out by NGK. I know lots of people say how aftermarket is getting worse and worse, but my gut tells me you'll be good with the WVE part.

and wow about the dealer's price, ouch!
 
20241021_135813.webp

So here's the temporary fix - a jumper bypassing the defective resistor module.

At first I thought, "Gee, those two spades are awfully close together - I should wedge something non-conductive between them to keep them from shorting!"

Then a short oh-no second later I thought, "Duh - the intention IS to short them together!"

I did wrap them in electrical tape and tape the connector to the side so it didn't dangle freely.
 
every time I hear dorman my body shakes in terror.. :unsure:

the WVE was Wells Vehicle Electronics bought out by NGK. I know lots of people say how aftermarket is getting worse and worse, but my gut tells me you'll be good with the WVE part.

and wow about the dealer's price, ouch!
There are lots of stories about Dorman's poor quality in the past, but I've also heard (I think here) that they are trying to improve.

Regardless, I felt better about WVE. Good to hear they're owned by NGK!
 
It looks like you have a resistor and the manual control system. If it were automatic control and FET there would only be three wires in that plug.
 
View attachment 246493
So here's the temporary fix - a jumper bypassing the defective resistor module.

At first I thought, "Gee, those two spades are awfully close together - I should wedge something non-conductive between them to keep them from shorting!"

Then a short oh-no second later I thought, "Duh - the intention IS to short them together!"

I did wrap them in electrical tape and tape the connector to the side so it didn't dangle freely.
Changing the cabin filters is a bit of a PITA.
 
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