2009 Mazda5 - Cooling system repair

Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
5,351
Location
Winnipeg MB CA
This is on the 2009 Mazda5 we bought in 2013 and gave to our son in 2021. The engine is the Mazda L/Ford Duratec 2.3, coupled with a slick 5-speed MT. There's only 210K km on the vehicle (about 130K miles).

It developed a coolant leak a couple of days ago that got worse quickly. I dug in this morning, and found that the "coolant outlet module" (not sure what the official term is, I couldn't find it in the FSM) appeared to be leaking.

Removal confirmed the problem - a bad gasket. I have a new part on order from the dealer. (For the time involved, it's not worth buying a cheaper Dorman or SKP part.)

I had to remove the intake-air tubing, air box, battery, and battery housing. The engine bay looks pretty spacious without those items!

Here's hoping running with low coolant didn't damage the engine.

Here's the unit. I opted to replace the whole thing, noticing that part of the inside lip is missing, and figuring that the entire thing must be pretty brittle by now.
20240522_125310~2.jpg


I was afraid I'd drop a bolt into the abyss, and used an old spark-plug boot to remove the bolts once they were loose enough. (I've used same for starting spark plugs for many years.)
20240522_124115~2.jpg


And here's the suddenly spacious engine bay, as seen from the driver's side, with the front of the vehicle being toward the left. You can see where this unit bolts to the block.
20240522_125320.jpg
 
Chris, interesting! I've only ever used Mazda FL-22 premix from the dealer. I've done a drain and fill about every two years, starting when we bought it in 2013.
Curious, does it specify anywhere underhood that it requires FL-22? Otherwise it just takes regular Asian antifreeze, and FL-22 shouldn't be mixed iirc. My 07 Mazda3 takes regular coolant, same vehicle/drivetrain, just as a sedan instead of a van-type config.

Regardless, this and the thermostat housing are fairly common, and you did right getting the OE part. The Dorman are known to have issues, especially the thermostats they include.
 
Fairly common repair on the 2.3/2.5 Duratec
I swapped both of mine on the Fusion/Milan for a metal piece as per a TSB for heater core noise
I'd put a fresh OEM thermostat if available, Mahle makes it if you don't want to pay dealer pricing

Mine looked in much better shape, at ~12 years old and 100k
But you've got a lot more working room 👏
These are PA66 reinforced nylon?
Some failures are just a failure 🤔

PXL_20210919_205038249.jpg

PXL_20210919_205046556.jpg
 
Curious, does it specify anywhere underhood that it requires FL-22? Otherwise it just takes regular Asian antifreeze, and FL-22 shouldn't be mixed iirc. My 07 Mazda3 takes regular coolant, same vehicle/drivetrain, just as a sedan instead of a van-type config.

Regardless, this and the thermostat housing are fairly common, and you did right getting the OE part. The Dorman are known to have issues, especially the thermostats they include.
You got me thinking ... the OM does not specify a coolant type. The FSM says, multiple times, "If the "FL22" mark is shown on or near the cooling system cap, use FL22 type engine coolant."

So I went out and checked - the rad cap says FL22 on it, confirming @bdcardinal's finding.
 
View attachment 220752
According to the chart Mazda uses for dealers it does in fact take FL-22
I'm a bit surprised 0W-20 is not back-specified for 2011 and earlier.

As well, per the FSM, there's a cut-off partway through the model year (2009) based on VIN, specifying when a GL-4 MTF is specified, and after which a GL-4 or GL-5 may be used. I think ours can use either, but to be safe I use only GL-4.
 
The part in question (coolant outlet module) does not appear in the FSM - or at least I've been unable to find it.

I presume that torque values for the four mounting bolts would be similar to those for the thermostat housing assembly (also plastic) - 71 to 101 inch-pounds (c. 6 to 8.5 ft-lbs).

Thoughts? Thanks.
 
The cap on Mrs. Kira's 2019 CX-5 says FL22 as well....interesting that it's 'cloaked in mystery'.
FL22 is just another "Asian Blue" like mitsu and Honda, no?
The FL22 from my dealer is green.

Given that it's about the same price as the OEM and Zerex manufacturer-specific coolants, I'll probably stick with it.
 
Ford used to use it but they called it "Specialty Green" then superceeded it to the Motorcraft Yellow coolant.
That makes sense, given that the 2.3 l Mazda L engine is the same as the Ford Duratech 2.3. In fact, mine has various parts with FoMoCo I.D.
 
The coolant outlet unit came in at the dealer yesterday afternoon and I installed it yesterday evening, and reinstalled the other parts I'd removed for access (PCM cables and connectors, battery tray, battery, intake air hose and MAF sensor, and various hoses).

I guestimated that 80 inch-lbs would be about right. Frustratingly enough, there's nothing in the FSM.

I refilled the system with Mazda FL22 55/45 premix from the dealer.

The system is challenging to bleed, but I think it's pretty good now.
 
Back
Top