2000 4Runner Tarnish Observation W/ Pictures

[oil_abuser]

Just an observation on my top end of my 4runner 2000 3.4 with 164K miles. My valve cover gasket was leaking again so I decided to take some photos and share it with you guys. If my memory is correct, I was using M1 EP, PP, PU with Napa Gold oil filters for many years. Up until the last 10K, I switched to SuperTech 5w30 with FramPro 3614 oil filters. I change twice per years regardless of mileage October and May, usually the oil has 3k-5k. What do you think about the tarnish? Should I go back to PP and Napa Gold? Within the last 10K, I purchased a trailer and tow more (light duty)


pic taken April 2013 137K driver side

Pic taken September 2016 164K passenger side

 

[Chris B.]

I absolutely would. That's a lot of varnish in a short period of time. Looks like the engine was spotless and varnish free before you switch to Supertek oil. Just goes to show you that value priced oils really aren't that good.

 

[mazdamonky]

Varnish is harmless. Keep doing what you are doing or Maybe try Supertech synthetic if youre trying to use a cheaper option than PP. You could also use the rebates on PP or M1 and have a great price.

 

[Chris142]

That little bit of color won't hurt a thing

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

A little varnish... not a big deal. Why the switch to ST anyway? Would consider going back, for added protection during hauling.

 

[Bud_One]

I'd go back to PP

 

[demarpaint]

By no means is that bad, but I would go back to either a Pennzoil synthetic or Mobil 1.

 

[Doog]

I would only go to Supertech in the last year of ownership and then it would be the synthetic.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: oil_abuser
Should I go back to PP and Napa Gold? Within the last 10K, I purchased a trailer and tow more (light duty)


pic taken April 2013 137K driver side

Pic taken September 2016 164K passenger side

You really have to ask? You kicked the nice super clean engine right in the balls to save a couple of bucks using that cheap junk.

 

[leemajors]

Wow! That was spotless in the first pic. Here was mine at 158k not too long after purchase--I'm pretty sure it was run on bulk 5w20 for most of its life according to the Toyota Owners site maintenance records...

I was pretty happy with this at the time (no sludge), guess I was being overly optimistic.

I guess I'll see how it looks at the next gasket change--hopefully a long, long time from now. It's been on either full synthetic or Rotella pretty much since I've owned it, and I run lots of hwy miles. Using Valvoline Maxlife synthetic at the moment..

 

[OldEuroCarLover]

So cheap oils really are [censored] compared to the better ones.

That's a massive difference in a short period of time, even if it is basically harmless.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: OldEuroCarLover
So cheap oils really are [censored] compared to the better ones.

That's a massive difference in a short period of time, even if it is basically harmless.


I would say that's the difference between a 10K interval on synthetics versus a conventional with 10K interval if I'm understanding the first post right.

 

[oil_abuser]

Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
Varnish is harmless. Keep doing what you are doing or Maybe try Supertech synthetic if youre trying to use a cheaper option than PP. You could also use the rebates on PP or M1 and have a great price.


sorry, should have clarified it was synthetic ST

 

[oil_abuser]

Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
A little varnish... not a big deal. Why the switch to ST anyway? Would consider going back, for added protection during hauling.


thanks, I made the decision to switch because money was tight and I needed to change the oil. I actually started a thread about this a year ago and asked for opinions. Consensus was: since I changed my oil too frequently, use what is cheap and change it often.

 

[Lolvoguy]

correct me if I'm wrong, but switching back to M1/pp should clean that back to the first pic, shouldn't it?

 

[nobb]

Not to derail the thread, but are you guys also checking the valve clearances when you pull the valve covers? I'll be pulling mine soon on my 4Runner as well.

 

[HKPolice]

You get what you pay for. Sure, UOAs will turn out normal with a cheap dino oil but varnish will keep adding up.

I would go back to full synthetic but it's upto you, light varnish won't do any harm but thicker varnish might.

 

[HKPolice]

Originally Posted By: oil_abuser
Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
Varnish is harmless. Keep doing what you are doing or Maybe try Supertech synthetic if youre trying to use a cheaper option than PP. You could also use the rebates on PP or M1 and have a great price.


sorry, should have clarified it was synthetic ST


Wait, are you sure?? Only 10K on synthetic walmart supertech caused this varnish?? I find that hard to believe. 10K on dino maybe.

Something else is going on here, valve cover gaskets don't just leak again so fast either, did you check if your PCV is clogged?

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
Varnish is harmless. Keep doing what you are doing or Maybe try Supertech synthetic if youre trying to use a cheaper option than PP. You could also use the rebates on PP or M1 and have a great price.


Varnish is not harmless!!! It shows the oil is oxidizing which in time can lead to ring coking, and oil consumption. My engines have no varnish that can be seen. Stick with a quality synthetic like PP or M1. Also the oil filter has nothing to do with varnish.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: oil_abuser
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
A little varnish... not a big deal. Why the switch to ST anyway? Would consider going back, for added protection during hauling.


thanks, I made the decision to switch because money was tight and I needed to change the oil. I actually started a thread about this a year ago and asked for opinions. Consensus was: since I changed my oil too frequently, use what is cheap and change it often.


Don't go by that bad advise.