2.7 Ecoboost first oil change. at 1000 miles.

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Originally Posted By: Joseph_S37
I'm guessing this is your truck?

I don't want to take this thread off topic, but any chance of you doing a review on the engine? MPG, power, etc?

Also what gear oil did you use? Any plans to do the front early as well? I've been meaning to do all the drivetrain fluids on mine, I think it's time for me.
I bought the truck for its potential gas mpgs.And that My daughter can use to trailer her horsies to the events she goes to if [she is hard core horse] the other truck is needed for something else. That is why I bought 2 wheel drive. So far with a 1000 miles on it, on a freeway trip at 70 miles per hour with the cruise control I have gotten 23 mpgs round trip. But I would feel better with more trips to get a better base of mpgs. I really don't do lots of city driving as I live about ten miles from a big city I live in rural N. California.The power is pretty good for a small engine. Probably similar to the 5.4 but it comes on at real low RPMs. It probably wouldn't scare a Vette or SRT Dodge
blush.gif
. I used M1 75W -140 gear oil as that is what I use in our Ford F250 . I haven't towed with it. I probably change the tranny oil and filter at 5 or 10, 000 miles. It is what I do. So far I like the truck My wife likes the 2002 F250 [I have a feeling because it is a manual trans] better though. Actually I really like the truck more than expected.
 
From the "Description and Operation" chapter and "Engine Overview" section:

Lubrication System

Variable Displacement Oil Pump

The variable displacement oil pump is designed to minimize energy loss. The active control matches the oil flow and pressure to the engine's need, eliminating excess oil flow, and reducing the load on the engine crankshaft to improve fuel economy.

The variable displacement oil pump works in two modes:

High pressure – in this mode the engine oil pressure is regulated by applying engine oil pressure (force) against the pump slide. The pump performs in this mode from idle to maximum engine speed much like a conventional ge-rotor style oil pump. The main improvement in this mode is that the pump only produces enough oil flow to meet the engine oil gallery pressure requirement as opposed to a ge-rotor pump that displaces a fixed volume and recirculates any surplus volume back to the pump inlet. The variable displacement pump in high mode is therefore more efficient because it produces only the flow necessary to achieve the engine oil pressure target and does not waist energy producing and recirculating excess volume.

Low pressure – in this mode a solenoid located in the front cover is energized. This solenoid allows oil pressure to be applied to a secondary pump port. This secondary force, further compresses the pump spring thereby allowing the pump to regulate to a secondary lower pressure setting. The pump becomes more efficient because it produces less flow and works against an even lower resistance.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
From the "Description and Operation" chapter and "Engine Overview" section:

Lubrication System ..........

Why is there a check valve and side chamber in the oil pan? Never heard of it.
 
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
From the "Description and Operation" chapter and "Engine Overview" section:

Lubrication System ..........

Why is there a check valve and side chamber in the oil pan? Never heard of it.


If I knew the rationalization behind it I would be working for the Mother Ship directly and have an extra 0 in my paycheck.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
If I knew the rationalization behind it I would be working for the Mother Ship directly and have an extra 0 in my paycheck.


hee-hee I'm relieved to know that. I was feeling very ignorant about why I didn't already know. Appears very unique. This 2.7L V6 ecoBoosty is interesting. Plastic oil pan! Iron engine block (although it is a special type of CGI iron, its still NOT aluminum like you'd think)~! ..... http://articles.sae.org/13388/
13388_19761_ACT.jpg
 
Why would the oil be black after 1000 miles?

My 2.0 Nissan engine on the 2015 City Express has 1500 miles and it is a nice gold color.
 
Originally Posted By: Plumber
Why would the oil be black after 1000 miles?

My 2.0 Nissan engine on the 2015 City Express has 1500 miles and it is a nice gold color.


Factory fill in my 2015 F-250 6.2L is still a nice golden color at 1,000 miles too... I plan to run the factory fill to 5,000 before changing.
 
Originally Posted By: Plumber
Why would the oil be black after 1000 miles?

My 2.0 Nissan engine on the 2015 City Express has 1500 miles and it is a nice gold color.
May be it was the many 40 mph to 100 mph wot trips up the mountain.
 
Originally Posted By: hydrogen3
who would be the "appropriate authorities"?

You could file your own complaint or suit for false advertising. Or, you could let API know, or the PQIA. Or, you could let the competition know it, and they'd love to jump all over Shell for this tidbit of information, since they seem unaware.

You could, however, start by providing us with the evidence for your claim, rather than getting diverted on the "appropriate authorities" aspect of my comments.
 
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
And is that not the easiest ever oil filter installation position you've ever seen?


Wish the 3.5 had it in that location instead of spilling it all over the skid plate.

Originally Posted By: Plumber
Why would the oil be black after 1000 miles?

My 2.0 Nissan engine on the 2015 City Express has 1500 miles and it is a nice gold color.


Different engine, different use, different oil...I don't see any relevance here. Besides, I think it's well established that oil color doesn't translate to if it needs changing or not.
 
Originally Posted By: hydrogen3
Originally Posted By: gonefishing
Originally Posted By: hydrogen3
Hope you didn't use Quaker state product...


Why not?


QS products thicken and cause oxidation......


LOL

you must have fallen asleep in your college chemistry classes.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
And is that not the easiest ever oil filter installation position you've ever seen?


Yep. Beats the heck out of my current 3.5L ecoboost. With mine, I have to reach blindly up in front of the engine while laying on my back to find the filter; it normally requires some sort of cleanup effort involving half a roll of paper towels. At least Ford made an improvement here, unlike the difference between the 4.0 in my wifes '12 4Runner (canister underneath) and her previous '06 4Runner (spin on filter right on top of the engine).
 
A little off topic but I to have a 2.7 EcoBoost. Mine is a crew Cab, 4x4 with 3.73 gears. I dropped my FF at 1K & after a recomendation from some respected engineers, I refilled with Rotella T6 5W-40. The reason behind this was the engine was still breaking in & the T6 would provide optimal protection for some early wear in. I just changed my oil again at 5K (I did this to stay at an even 5K interval) & refilled with the oil I'm planning on using which is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30. Getting to my point, my mpg actually went down by 1/2 mpg when I ran the T6 Rotella, it went back up after refilling with the 5w-30 PUP. This (IMO) goes to show the engine was working harder with the much thicker 5w-40 vs the thin 5w-30. I will continue to run the PUP 5w-30 from now on, the 5w-40 T6 was just for inital break in purposes. My UOA shows wear metals to be very low for such a low mileage report, showing the T6 did it's job I'm guessing.
 
Originally Posted By: hydrogen3
Originally Posted By: gonefishing
Originally Posted By: hydrogen3
Hope you didn't use Quaker state product...


Why not?


QS products thicken and cause oxidation......


You forgot to add...back in 1965....
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Rear diff only had quart instead of 2.75 quarts?
transfer case and front diff?

I called Ford this morning and talked about the low oil in the differential and eve though I do not expect ant problems as everything was wet with oil . The rep gave me a case number to maybe help is there are any problems in the future.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Just going to leave this note from the FSM here for future reference.

"After filling the engine with oil, the oil must flow from the main chamber of the oil pan, through a check valve into the smaller side chamber to correctly register the oil level on the oil level indicator. This may take up to 15 minutes."


Interesting is that smaller chamber where the pump pick up is?
 
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