I wouldn't change a thing unless I just went with a conventional oil. I currently have two cars with over 200K using conventional 10w40 and both lower the oil level about 1/2 quart in 3K miles. When it gets 1/2 quart low I top it off and usually at oil change time 2K miles later it's still sitting on full or very close to it.
I drove an '88 Ford Escort to 518K miles on conventional oil and quit using the car because of other problems. As I remember it didn't start using any oil until around 250-300K miles but had progressively got worse over the years/miles. The Escort was also driven on dusty construction sites daily for it's first 12 years/350K miles.
I had a '76 Chrysler with a 360 V8 back in the late 80's, early 90's that was an oil burner. I used it as a daily driver to and from work on construction sites. It would go through about a quart of oil in 300 miles. I finally just quit changing the oil in it, started saving oil that I drained from my better cars at oil change time, pouring it back in the bottles and using it for topping off oil. This was back in the days when I did 3-4K mile OCI's. When I got rid of the car it had been 31K miles since it had an oil change. Even though the oil that I was putting back in it had 3-4K miles on it I figured it was essentially changing it's own oil every couple thousand miles through it's oil burning. A friend of mine who knew about it's oil burning and history asked me if I'd sell it to him since he'd just got married and needed some cheap transportation. I think I sold it for $250 and let him make payments as he had the money. I know he drove it for another year or two after buying it from me. The reason he quit driving it is because they passed an emissions inspection law in the area and it wouldn't pass the inspection. He probably sold it to a junkyard for $100. or so. I guess he got his money's worth. Last time I saw the Chrysler I was on my way to work one morning and it was on a load of crushed cars going to be recycled. Maybe oil changes are an over rated way to empty our pockets. LOL
I'm using conventional 10w40 in my '16 Versa. Last oil change I let it go 7500 miles doing an oil blot test about every 500-1K miles and the oil still looked like "oil from a properly functioning ICE with short run period" in this article. https://atomium.eu/home/articles/condition-based-lubricating-oil-change/ If I'd have gone strictly by the blot test results the oil would have probably have lasted in excess of 15K miles.
I've been using 10w40 conventional ever since I bought my first car in 1977 and still use it in all my cars. You know the old saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it". All the oil I'm currently using in my cars is new/old stock that I bought 15-25 years ago when oil could be bought for under a $1 a quart. I've got some newer oils that I've bought in the past few years when there have been good sales on it but being 60 years old, being disabled and not driving near as much as I used to I'm not likely to live long enough to use much if any of it since I still have several cases of the older stuff. I've got a dozen 5qt. jugs of 10w30 Pennzoil Platinum that I bought probably 15 years ago when they had it on sale and also had a rebate on it. Final cost on the PP was $1/qt. plus tax. I do my own oil changes and am still doing oil changes for under $5. each because, I also bought lots of oil filters at stores that were closing them out for $ .25-$1. each. When I bought the Versa I ordered a dozen filters from Rock Auto with a final cost including shipping of $2. each.That's impressive, given that 10w-40 was historically one of the worst oil grades with next to zero or zero OEM approvals and a very high VII load, particularly in conventional formulations.
Yes ... and legacy of another era in chemical knowledge ... Also wonder if folks consider a “flush” to be completely harmless ... it’s not a great lubricant and belongs in neglected engines only ...That's impressive, given that 10w-40 was historically one of the worst oil grades with next to zero or zero OEM approvals and a very high VII load, particularly in conventional formulations.
Because people like the OP will buy it. Amsoil makes a profit and the customer thinks they’re getting something special for their engine.
You've wasted alot of oil and $ on short OCI's.I've used Mobil 1 in a variety of my vehicles over the past 30 years. My older vehicles I would use conventional oil like my old Pontiac's and Buicks. All my new cars got Mobil 1. I figured I'd try something different to keep my 2010 Chevy Equinox 3.0 V6 going a little longer. I've done the oil changes per the trip computer at 5-7K miles for the life of the car. It currently has almost 131K miles on it now.
I've always used the M1 5W30, typically a Mobil 1 or K&N filter(never again after the "nut" on the end leaked one time, and an old school FilterMag magnet. When I've changed the oil at 7K miles I'd typically be down a half or so quart. I never worried about it. The last few oil changes I've done here in FL (previously in MA) I've gone around 5K miles only due to the temps here vs MA. We've been in FL for the last 2 years.
After watching some video's and doing some research I figured I'd try Amsoil. I'm going to use the flush. I'm fairly confident not a lot of crud will come out since I've been pretty religious about doing the oil changes and have always used a quality oil and filter.
Anyone have any thoughts or concerns about using the flush and then going to Amsoil at 130K mile engine?
This is the direct injection 3.0 with timing chain issues especially when people push their oil changes. I disagree. A timing chain replacement on this engine is a lot more expensive than oil changes. I really wish you long drain guys would either keep your advice to yourself, or at least look at the application and possible issues before giving out bad advice.You've wasted alot of oil and $ on short OCI's.
100% agree with you , i do not trust extending drains on any D.I engine .This is the direct injection 3.0 with timing chain issues especially when people push their oil changes. I disagree. A timing chain replacement on this engine is a lot more expensive than oil changes. I really wish you long drain guys would either keep your advice to yourself, or at least look at the application and possible issues before giving out bad advice.
FWIW, Valvoline claims their oil provides 40% greater wear protection on the SEQ X (timing chain test) than required.