1978 Lincoln Continental 460 oil capacity??

When I change oil on my F150 on a flat driveway it takes 5 quarts with filter. If I jack up the front end during the drain it takes 6 quarts like the book says. :unsure:

Same with my Ranger. On a flat surface it takes 4.5 Quarts. Jacked up it takes 5.
 
Thank you for all the reply’s.
Lots of good and confusing information.

Let me explain the scenario a little better.

Changed the oil and filter and added 4 quarts of oil and then ran the car until it was at operation temperature,turned it off and waiting 10 minutes and checked the oil again and it is registering full on the dip stick?……So therefore this is why I made the Original post asking the oil capacity because the dipstick is showing full with only 4 quarts added??

The 1978 Lincoln manual says 4 quarts(+1 with filter change)
*Oil level to be determined by dipstick

The wording was a little confusing in the manual.

NOW with all that being said a oil change with new filter should take 5 quarts?

My dipstick is showing full with 4 quarts and this is the confusion of the whole thing.

Car has the original oil pan and dipstick and both are in good working order,nothing broke or bent.
Thanks for all the information
There is a chance that you’ve got a quart of sludge in the bottom of the pan.

It didn’t drain out, so, net capacity, with filter - 4 quarts.

On a car that old, from the era of lousy oils, with unknown maintenance history, it’s worth pulling the pan and cleaning it up.
 
Just so people know...
The 1978-on Fox body (1978 Ford Fairmont and Mercury Zephyr, 1979-on Mustang and later Foxes) might take the split oil pan with two drain plugs. The behemoth that the OP has only has one drain plug. Now why it's only taking four quarts, either there is a bunch of sludge in it as previously posted, or the dipstick is wrong. It should take five quarts using the 8A-sized filter, not the PH16-sized filter. ONE MORE THING: Replace the plastic (nylon) coated cam gear with a quality aftermarket Made in USA timing chain set. By doing so, you might possibly save your engine because the plastic will flake off on the original cam gear and plug your oil pump pickup tube while still allowing the engine to run. (Don't ask me how I know) While you have the oil pan off (to do this job properly), clean out the oil pan and replace the oil pump while you are there, including the oil pickup tube. Your engine will thank you.
 
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Just so people know...
... ONE MORE THING: Replace the plastic (nylon) coated cam gear with a quality aftermarket Made in USA timing chain set. By doing so, you might possibly save your engine because the plastic will flake off on the original cam gear and plug your oil pump pickup tube while still allowing the engine to run. (Don't ask me how I know) While you have the oil pan off (to do this job properly), clean out the oil pan and replace the oil pump while you are there, including the oil pickup tube. Your engine will thank you.
Funny you mention this, I had a used '74 LTD Detective Car with a certiified speedo and the 429. and the oil pump somehow ingested a piece of a crusty valve seal. Car shut of instantly- when the dist stopped spinning :)

Thinking about it - for a minute after cursing it - I thought, "Nice failsafe!"
 
Jeepers!

Just go by the dipstick if you got 4 quarts in there. OE dipper OE pan - hopefully NOT dented. There will be at least a pint retained in the block vs. a dry re-man fill. If you don't feel comfortable pouring in 4, add an extra pint - but NO MORE!

This is not " Rocket Science" that is reserved for Oldsmobile.
 
Higher/ larger oil capacities started here in the US in the late 90's. My 1999 STS (Northstar) held 6.5 qts with filter change. The OFFICIAL reason was that since the engine was mounted transversely, during hard cornering (It would pull over 1G in the corners) there was a possibility that the oil level would move away from the pickup tube.

Of course, most mechanics would see that and put in 7 quarts "Just to be sure it was full". UNFORTUNATELY, in that engine, AT THAT TIME, overfilling would lead to excessive oil burning and stuck rings.

Check the dipstick, do not overfill.
 
I had a used '74 LTD Detective Car with a certiified speedo and the 429. and the oil pump somehow ingested a piece of a crusty valve seal. Car shut off instantly- when the dist stopped it
In the day, this actually happened more than you would think. Here’s how it happened: The valve seals would harden and get crusty. Then a small piece would break off from the main seal and would go floating in the pool of oil. This piece would look similar to piece of cut finger nail. They were long, thin, and actually quite hard. They were thin enough to go through the oil pickup tube screen and were hard enough immediately stop an oil pump when it got between the oil pump rotor and housing wall. It would then break an oil pump tube or strip a camshaft or oil pump drive gear. It’s something you would believe until you see it for yourself.
 
Wandering off topic a little bit, but I think it’s important. After you’ve got all the engine oil chores completed, it’s time to change the tranny fluid. It’s a simple pan drop, filter change and oil refill, correct? Not quite. Ford products of this era has a torque converter drain plug, just like the engine. I think on your model there’s a front cover plate to take off the transmission and the small plug will be accessible. You may have to bump the starter to get the plug on the bottom, or put a socket on the front crankshaft pulley bolt to turn it by hand. Take the plug out to get an additional 3+ quarts out. (Most Fords had this converter drain plug until about 2004-ish) Of course, refill with type “F” transmission fluid. Give the bottles a good shake before adding to the transmission dipstick tube as your oil probably sat on the shelf for years and add the additives are sitting on the bottom of your quart containers.
 
Of course, refill with type “F” transmission fluid.
Are you certain about Type F fluid? 1977 was the year Ford started changing over to using Mercon fluids.

OP has the owners manual so it should be easily verified for his car.
 
Are you certain about Type F fluid? 1977 was the year Ford started changing over to using Mercon fluids.

OP has the owners manual so it should be easily verified for his car.
How true you are. He needs to look at the owner’s manual and follow Ford’s recommendation.
 
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