‘18 3.5 EcoBoost recommendation
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Originally Posted by dave1251
At work the 3.5 ecoboost get 5K OCI's with about 75% idle time on lowest bidder bulk oil and lowest bidder gasoline. As along as it's API SN and above with a 5W30 following your iOLM your maintenance practices are better than nessary and chasing ppm in UOA's is just allowing yourself to fall into chicken little paranoia.
Thanks Dave. Love to hear experienced based, pragmatic opinion, too!
To paraphrase BB, "I got an open mind so why don't you all get inside"
At work the 3.5 ecoboost get 5K OCI's with about 75% idle time on lowest bidder bulk oil and lowest bidder gasoline. As along as it's API SN and above with a 5W30 following your iOLM your maintenance practices are better than nessary and chasing ppm in UOA's is just allowing yourself to fall into chicken little paranoia.
Thanks Dave. Love to hear experienced based, pragmatic opinion, too!
To paraphrase BB, "I got an open mind so why don't you all get inside"
Originally Posted by kstanf150
But the four guys I know that have EB engines have never had any of the noise problems that some here talk about
and all four guys run different brands of oil
Every problem is amplified on the interwebs.
But the four guys I know that have EB engines have never had any of the noise problems that some here talk about
and all four guys run different brands of oil
Every problem is amplified on the interwebs.
Originally Posted by dave1251
At work the 3.5 ecoboost get 5K OCI's with about 75% idle time on lowest bidder bulk oil and lowest bidder gasoline. As along as it's API SN and above with a 5W30 following your iOLM your maintenance practices are better than nessary and chasing ppm in UOA's is just allowing yourself to fall into chicken little paranoia.
My last work truck was a 2.7 ecoboost and that ran/idled for 12 hours a day in 100 degree temps. When it wasn't idling it was running un-paved dusty roads in 4x4 at low speeds, and then a nice highway run to top things off.
Bulk whatever oil in the right grade (maybe), every 5k. Not a single hiccup.
I've made your argument many times, I'm just saying that we do have (albeit) limited data via UOA's and the magnatec consistently performs. If everything performs as well as anything else, then at least there is a little empirical (sort of) data to assist in the decision making process.
So often each manufacturer/vehicle will get a devoted following of a certain oil/filter. Its like that on every internet vehicle forum. Go to tacomaworld and see how many people use straight mobil 1 and an oem filter, or subaru and see how many praise rotella HDEO 5w40. It just kind of builds organically and runs from there. It serves as a sample size greater than n=1 and because its directly applicable to your platform, people put their trust in it.
At work the 3.5 ecoboost get 5K OCI's with about 75% idle time on lowest bidder bulk oil and lowest bidder gasoline. As along as it's API SN and above with a 5W30 following your iOLM your maintenance practices are better than nessary and chasing ppm in UOA's is just allowing yourself to fall into chicken little paranoia.
My last work truck was a 2.7 ecoboost and that ran/idled for 12 hours a day in 100 degree temps. When it wasn't idling it was running un-paved dusty roads in 4x4 at low speeds, and then a nice highway run to top things off.
Bulk whatever oil in the right grade (maybe), every 5k. Not a single hiccup.
I've made your argument many times, I'm just saying that we do have (albeit) limited data via UOA's and the magnatec consistently performs. If everything performs as well as anything else, then at least there is a little empirical (sort of) data to assist in the decision making process.
So often each manufacturer/vehicle will get a devoted following of a certain oil/filter. Its like that on every internet vehicle forum. Go to tacomaworld and see how many people use straight mobil 1 and an oem filter, or subaru and see how many praise rotella HDEO 5w40. It just kind of builds organically and runs from there. It serves as a sample size greater than n=1 and because its directly applicable to your platform, people put their trust in it.
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If you like Motorcraft oil, then you will like Kendall or Phillips 66. Phillips make Motorcraft oils and Kendall. Kendall GT-1 Max is a little on the thicker end of the 5w30 scale.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66...4eda-b089-77864c9c4ddc/original/GT-1_Max
https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66...4eda-b089-77864c9c4ddc/original/GT-1_Max
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Good stuff guys! To digress, in the past 30 years for me it was basically buy "good" oil and filters*, change it at 3k back in the day to 5-8k today, and forget about it. And yes, I was rewarded with lots of reliable engine (long blocks). (knock on wood- still have two 100+ k's- 5.4 Triton original and 5.3 LS deactivated that I rely on daily)
So maybe the take away thus far is despite technological advances of DI and port injection, turbos, VCT etc maybe these EB aren't so suspect?
My auto engine gold standard has been many many Hondas and Acuras, so I'm just hoping to "oil" my way into that kind of reliability, if that even makes a difference.
Addendum question- is this SN+/ B1 all it's purported to be?
So maybe the take away thus far is despite technological advances of DI and port injection, turbos, VCT etc maybe these EB aren't so suspect?
My auto engine gold standard has been many many Hondas and Acuras, so I'm just hoping to "oil" my way into that kind of reliability, if that even makes a difference.
Addendum question- is this SN+/ B1 all it's purported to be?
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Originally Posted by BLND1
Mobil 1 and QSUD would be other options besides Magnatec that are "thicker" 5w30s.
I'd run whatever SN+ D1G2 5w30 I preferred during warranty and then switch to a 5w40/0w40 post-warranty if it were my truck. the 3.5tt seems hard on oil.
100% agree it is very hard on oil. So much heat from the turbos and the engine. Especially when tuned. I do have an extended warranty but I really don't think they would notice the difference between a 30 and 40 weight unless they did a UOA right? Im just looking for some good viable options for good protection. I do have a habit of changing my oil at 3k intervals because I do have very short trips. I work 2.5 miles from work and with traffic I do not want to go on an extended drive that will be 5 miles in an hour lol
Mobil 1 and QSUD would be other options besides Magnatec that are "thicker" 5w30s.
I'd run whatever SN+ D1G2 5w30 I preferred during warranty and then switch to a 5w40/0w40 post-warranty if it were my truck. the 3.5tt seems hard on oil.
100% agree it is very hard on oil. So much heat from the turbos and the engine. Especially when tuned. I do have an extended warranty but I really don't think they would notice the difference between a 30 and 40 weight unless they did a UOA right? Im just looking for some good viable options for good protection. I do have a habit of changing my oil at 3k intervals because I do have very short trips. I work 2.5 miles from work and with traffic I do not want to go on an extended drive that will be 5 miles in an hour lol
Originally Posted by kstanf150
My vote goes to QS Synthetic
Logged 120K in my 2012 F150 3.5 Ecoboost before I trade
for my F250 6.2L
Not one issue with QS
I've run it for years and still do today
QS Synthetic also meets Honda's HTO -06 turbo specs
Back to your QS kick now that you got called out on your flip-flopping on RGT? Shocker.
OP, look for something that meets the specs, that's all you need. There are plenty of UOAs here for 3.5EBs that show fuel dilution but I haven't seen any posts that someone has had a catastrophic failure, let alone from fuel dilution. Like others said, stay conservative on OCI (5k or so) and go from there. All of the Chicken Littles yelling about fuel dilution still don't have any hard proof that it's the end of the world.
My vote goes to QS Synthetic
Logged 120K in my 2012 F150 3.5 Ecoboost before I trade
for my F250 6.2L
Not one issue with QS
I've run it for years and still do today
QS Synthetic also meets Honda's HTO -06 turbo specs
Back to your QS kick now that you got called out on your flip-flopping on RGT? Shocker.
OP, look for something that meets the specs, that's all you need. There are plenty of UOAs here for 3.5EBs that show fuel dilution but I haven't seen any posts that someone has had a catastrophic failure, let alone from fuel dilution. Like others said, stay conservative on OCI (5k or so) and go from there. All of the Chicken Littles yelling about fuel dilution still don't have any hard proof that it's the end of the world.
Subie- I hear ya.
Wanna talk fuel dilution worries on a dry sump and vertical driveshaft engine, that would be on my Yamaha F300 outboard!! LOL
The fix is run the poop out of it early, which is maybe why my EB is ok in this respect as it was a dealer demo with 2k miles on it when I bought it. Ha!
Wanna talk fuel dilution worries on a dry sump and vertical driveshaft engine, that would be on my Yamaha F300 outboard!! LOL
The fix is run the poop out of it early, which is maybe why my EB is ok in this respect as it was a dealer demo with 2k miles on it when I bought it. Ha!
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Originally Posted by noclutch
Whimsy- was that semi syn or full? Seems their new full syn is SN+, which caught my eye. But I don't know if it's been out long enough for any UOAs?
Thanks hulkster - yes hear that regularly. ðŸ‘ðŸ»
It was the "standard" synblend Motorcraft 5W-30 available at Walmart and the same synblend Motorcraft 5w-30 the dealer will use unless you pay extra for synthetic.
Whimsey
Whimsy- was that semi syn or full? Seems their new full syn is SN+, which caught my eye. But I don't know if it's been out long enough for any UOAs?
Thanks hulkster - yes hear that regularly. ðŸ‘ðŸ»
It was the "standard" synblend Motorcraft 5W-30 available at Walmart and the same synblend Motorcraft 5w-30 the dealer will use unless you pay extra for synthetic.
Whimsey
Originally Posted by noclutch
So, I've heard mention of suggested 5w-30 oils in no particular order of PP, Magnatec, RGT, and M1, and maybe a few I'm forgetting. Now I have analysis paralysis! But all ears and looking for some guidence.
FWIW, for my second oil change, I thought I was being smart and went PUP, but in hindsight it might not be the best for my application. DOH!
The PUP will be fine. Generally speaking, choose whatever brand you prefer that's readily available at a reasonable price. I'm not a fan of chasing sales and jumping from oil to oil.
So, I've heard mention of suggested 5w-30 oils in no particular order of PP, Magnatec, RGT, and M1, and maybe a few I'm forgetting. Now I have analysis paralysis! But all ears and looking for some guidence.
FWIW, for my second oil change, I thought I was being smart and went PUP, but in hindsight it might not be the best for my application. DOH!
The PUP will be fine. Generally speaking, choose whatever brand you prefer that's readily available at a reasonable price. I'm not a fan of chasing sales and jumping from oil to oil.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Not sure what you mean by flip flop on RGT
Never used it before
First you ask about it and see if anyone got a VOA on it and that you're interested in using it.
Then, when several people say "why is everyone talking about RGT" you go back to "I love Quaker State and it's all I use, never used RGT before"
Just like three days ago your sig said Kentucky... now it says GoVols. Flip flop, flip flop.
Not sure what you mean by flip flop on RGT
Never used it before
First you ask about it and see if anyone got a VOA on it and that you're interested in using it.
Then, when several people say "why is everyone talking about RGT" you go back to "I love Quaker State and it's all I use, never used RGT before"
Just like three days ago your sig said Kentucky... now it says GoVols. Flip flop, flip flop.
The PUP will be fine. Generally speaking, choose whatever brand you prefer that's readily available at a reasonable price. I'm not a fan of chasing sales and jumping from oil to oil.[/quote]
Figured it wasn't a poor choice, but with Ford now recommending/spec-ing SN+ or B-1, figured they knew something that I should lpay attention to! And PUP ain't that spec.
Figured it wasn't a poor choice, but with Ford now recommending/spec-ing SN+ or B-1, figured they knew something that I should lpay attention to! And PUP ain't that spec.
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